New Pond'r from New Jersey

sissy

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https://www.gardenpondforum.com/gallery/image/647-new-pond-filter-working-001/



https://www.gardenpondforum.com/gallery/image/667-pond-012/



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I have two one at each end of the pond both have lava rock and on top have buffer pad filters .I have to use two because of the koi and inside my pond I have a crate with one of the pumps in it with a bag of lava rock on top .The one filter is a doubled up tote and the filter at the other end is a plantainer .
 
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PP I’m at about the same progress point as you are with a pond about the same size, and what looks like a similar filter system.
Can you explain (with pictures) your filter system with a little more detail? How will you be winterizing it?
 
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Sissy, I like the effect of the large flat rocks in your waterfall, it looks good. a couple of your pic's didn't post correctly.
 
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Mucky Waters, throw some pics up in your gallery, I'd love to see what your pond looks like as well.
I Have a Bottom drain that feeds a blue settling tank IMG_0483.JPG
midway up, I then have a connection at the top IMG_0488.JPG
which feeds a white mechanical/bio tank (no media for this yet) This white tank is drawn from the bottom to a pre-filter basket (shown just in front of the blue settling tank) and then to the pump and out to a container at the top of the falls IMG_0253.JPG , which I may put some bio-media in, eventually.
I also have a remote skimmer IMG_0489.JPG the grey tank with the netting in it, the netting will be formed a little better later on. this tank also ties into the pre-flter basket just before the pump.

I have a Drain in each of the tanks for cleaning out and for winterizing, I will be attaching a pump to these this weekend, in order to get the water out of the filter pit, as it is below ground level. I Have drain plugs and valves installed IMG_8875.JPG at the lowest points to allow me to drain all water from the plumbing and tanks to winterize. Again, I'm new at this and often change things as I go, if it makes sense to do something differently.
My only concern with winterizing this first season will be the bottom drain, as the knife valve will be exposed to the elements IMG_0340.JPG, and the water that will be just behind the knife valve. My plan is to insert a swimming pool noodle or similar down the bottom drain pipe before closing the valve for the winter, to allow any freezing water to expand into the noodle instead of out into the plumbing. (crossing my fingers on this one) My other thought was to wrap this part of the bottom drain pipe with an electric pipe warmer element. I may end up doing both to be safe.
 

sissy

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I had one up filter and one down filter ,but the down filters worked better as I could put quilt batting on top to pick up all the fine stuff including single cell algae .I turn both filters off and just put a pump in the deep part with a hose running out of the pump into a capped piece of pvc with holes drilled in it .I left my pond running a little to long last year and lost over half the water and if I had not caught it when I did the fish would have frozen .Lucky I have well water




 
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Wow! Excellent explanation PP. And such a quick response too. Thanks.
If you don’t mind I’ll post my set up in the introduction thread I already have started, just to keep things more organized.
You mentioned your main concern was about your bottom drain freezing at the knife valve. That’s kind of funny because that is the main area in my system I am concerned about and kind of why I was asking about your system, to see if you had any extra insight into the mater.
In my case I have one big difference in my system that I think (hope) will make things a lot safer for me, and that is that my bottom drain exits into a very well insulated pump house room. I spent a good chunk of change building this indoor filter/pump room, so I’m hoping it will pay off by eliminating any chance of that line freezing, but never say never, right?
I’m in the same boat as you with respects to just getting the pond up and running in time to shut it down for the winter, so I, like you, will be watching things pretty closely.
One issue that appears to have already come up, that may also effect you is these knife valves, or gate valves as they are sometimes called. They may not all be the same, but when I bought mine the irrigation guy warned me that they don’t take pressure very well. I explained it was only going to be used in a gravity feed flow system, and that the pump would be located after the gate valves ( I have a few valves in my system). Anyway, I drained my pond half way after the initial fill so I could do some rock work. When refilling the system I shut off the main bottom drain gate valve , so I could just fill the pond without filling the filter barrels, but when checking the fill rates I noticed the filter barrels were still filling up slowly. The only explaination I can come up with was the imbalance in pressure between the pond water depth and the barrel water depth was enough to allow water to seep through the knife valve.
Again, I don’t know if all these knife/gate valves are the same, or if you have ever tried completely draining your filter barrels yet since you filled your pond, but it could be a problem for you. Especially because I notice it looks like your valve is down well below the top of your water level, maybe even lower than mine. I hope for you sake that it’s not a potential problem.

I’ll see what I can put together over on my thread (Getting back into water gardening) to describing my system. I’m kind of doing things in slow motion right now though. I'm actually recuperating from hurting my back, I did a bunch of rock work in the pond over the last few days and then went and cut and load of firewood yesterday. Today my back is rebelling, I can’t stand up straight and can hardly walk. I guess it’s my back’s way of telling me it needs a few days off.
 

HARO

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PP: make sure you surround that bio-falls tote with something to support it. Otherwise it will deform, and eventually split. Totes were not meant to hold water when un-supported. John
 

sissy

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Thats why I double up a tote and then buy a little larger tote and line that with styrofoam and then set the double up one inside the bigger one .With the doubled up one I cut the handles off the one that goes inside so they fit together tighter .I also buy the industrial totes now they are thicker and heavier than the ones in the stores .Most places that sell to large offices sell them like graingers does .I also found that some tractor supplies sell a heavier duty one
 
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Sissy, your water is crystal clear, those must be some happy fish.

Mucky Waters, I have tested the gate valve and it does stop any water flow into the blue tank when it is closed. The insulated pump house room also sounds like a great idea.

Haro/John, Thanks for the tip on the waterfall tank, I had actually noticed that same thing, that top tank is only supported on two sides and the one unsupported long side was definately buldging out, That will be at the top of my list, come spring.

I finished the plumbing for the waste pump today, it will help in cleaning any excess debris from the tanks and also draining the tanks and plumbing for the winter.
 

sissy

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Before I started with the filters the way I have them now the pond always had a tint to it .The water is pumped to the top and comes out onto the quilt batting then under that there are 2 buffing machine pads and then under that the bags of lava rock and then under that a shelf with holes drilled in it with a space under that for any extra gunk to fall in to
 
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PP did you get your pond system winterized yet. Did you get that noodle in there? lol
I did get my gate valve to shut off the water (think I left another valve open somewhere last time), but I think I'm going to go the electric heat cord too.
 
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PP I know you do get some cold weather in NJ and I am curious how you winterized your pond. Did the noodle thing work out at the gate valve? did you get any hard freezing weather there yet?
 
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[sub]Mucky Waters, I think I am going to go one more week before I winterize it. I have a little more rock work to do and am enjoying the waterfall effect. I am working on getting a cover on the filter pit currently. I do have the pool noodle ready and have wrapped the exposed bottom drain pipe with the heater wire. I'll keep you posted. did you winterize yours yet? [/sub]
 
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Yep, pond is winterized. If fact I was walking on top of my pond in the moonlight last night, it has a good 2 inches of ice on the surface.
The main 3” knife valve held ok and I was able to drain all the tanks as planed. Temperatures have been well below freezing, and the insulated filter tank room has been staying a few degrees above freezing, but then it hasn’t gotten real cold here yet either. I have a light bulb suspended just above the exit pipes and valves that hold water and are at risk of freezing. When the temps get real cold I plan to just turn that light bulb on to spot warm the pipes and keep them from freezing.
I only have one thing that I am a little bit worried about. There has been considerable condensation on the filter room door. Because of the moisture in the filter room and the cold outside, I get a lot of moisture condensing inside the metal door, mainly around the top edges and the door knob. My worry is that when it gets real cold that moisture might freeze and seal up the door and I won’t be able to open it. This happen to a door inside a greenhouse I once had. If this happens in this filter room door before I have a chance to turn the light on I might have a bit of a problem.
I suppose I should just leave the light on now, even though I don’t need it, but I’m too cheap to pay the electric bill for that 75 watt bulb. :banghead3:
 

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