Remove UV and submersible pump for winter?

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My Aqua Ultima II filter runs my waterfall and cleans my pond with a center bottom feed. Getting my water clear required a 40 watt UV light and submersible pump. My pond depth is 3 feet and wonder if I should remove pump and UV light for winter and if so at what temperature would be the best to remove these. I am in Virginia and today the temp got to 85 last night it was 55. Don't want to cut it off too soon as I love my crystal clear water.
 
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Freezing would be the only concern. Not just frost, but serious freezing. As long as the pump stays below the ice it will pump relatively warm water thru the UV so it wouldn't freeze. However, temps can get low enough to freeze even moving water, but maybe not in your area.

You also might want to check the manufacturer's spec for when the UV bulb's effective life. Most say a general thing like "replace once a year" but assume you're only running it 6 months per year. You could be burning electric and not doing a thing UV wise. Ponds often will stay clear on their own after a while. If you pond has string algae I would assume it would stay clear with the UV off. Easy enough to check. If you see the water starting to turn green just turn the UV back on.
 
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I've always left my submersible pumps in the pond skimmer over the winter. I have a pressurized filter / uv light that I store inside over the winter. Any reason I should not leave my pumps in the skimmer over the winter?
 
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I don't really think it's an issue. I think pumps shouldn't have any problem being frozen as long as it's off.

But I know many people freak out over ice...it destroys everything. But that's not really true. A pump doesn't have any closed spaces with water where ice could expand and crack something. However, cold can cause contractions and maybe crack something, but that risk is basically the same for warm water too, pretty low. Probably more risk of the pump being dropped and cracked while bringing it in for winter.

I have had a lot of pumps not work after being stored dry for several months. But I don't know why. They looked fine.
 

Troutredds

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Waterbug,

My pump (pictured below) is a above-ground centrifugal unit. It moves 14000 gph in our 5000 gallon pond/stream setup. I keep it running 24/7, as our rainbow trout prefer a highly oxygenated flow. This unit, by design, contains "closed spaces...where ice could expand and crack something". Do you think our mild northwest winters, combined with a high flow rate will prevent ice accumulation? In winter, we frequently dip below freezing but rarely, if ever experience extended cold spells. A gruff, insightful response is appreciated... image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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Gruff is easy, insightful is harder but I will try.

I had ponds up in Upstate NY, serious cold. And I've had ponds in mild climates, San Jose CA. That's were my experience is coming from to help you judge.

If you get ice on the pond sometimes that melts by afternoon you'll have no problems. I remember people in San Jose freaking out when there was 1/8" of ice on the pond in the morning..."Should I buy a heater?",

A cold spell for say 5 days where the pond is iced over you'll have no problems.

14000 GPH might freeze up in Upstate NY some years. But in that case the way bigger concern imo is cooling the water to the point of fish dying, even Rainbows. But I don't see how you could get anywhere close to being in that boat in Settle assuming reasonable elevation. I've read of people in Sweden having these kinds of problems.

Small point...
This small point doesn't effect you, but I find it very interesting...Your pump only appears to have "closed spaces". The input pipe is open to the pond which is open to the air. After the pump, even if it goes into a pressurized filter both sides of the filter are still open to the air. Water wouldn't flow to and from the pond if the system weren't open.

On the other hand, if you had a valve both before and after the pump and closed both of those and water remained in the pipe and pump, that would be closed and absolutely be a huge problem. Of course the pump would also have to be off or it would burn up I think.

The issue isn't so much the ice, it's the pressure. In a closed system when the ice expands pressure builds until something breaks. When water pipes freeze and burst the burst almost always happens way inside the house far away from the ice, at weak points. Inside the house with all the fixtures closed the a pipe will freeze where it comes into the house. That ice plugs the pipe so you now have a closed system full of water. As the ice continues to expand down the pipe into the house (the diameter of an ice plug in a pipe doesn't expand) there is less and less space for the water trapped in the system, pressure builds and builds until bang.

Opening a water faucet a little will keep warmer water flowing thru a pipe and normally keep it from freezing. But when really cold the pipe can still freeze. But because the faucet is still open ice can push water out as it expands and pressure in the pipes will actually be near zero, so the trick still protects the plumbing system.

When a pond keeper understands this process, and it is surprisingly difficult to accept because we have to unlearn one of the most basic concepts we've been taught, ice in a pond becomes much less scary and very easy to manage.

Here's some links for those interested in this trivia.
http://www.weather.com/activities/homeandgarden/home/hometips/severeweather/pipefreeze_prevent.html
http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/radio/pipefrez.html

And for those like me who like to see a small point beaten to death.
http://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/3133/why-does-frozen-water-burst-a-pipe
 

Troutredds

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Ah yes; the Lennard-Jones potential. A brilliantly simple explanation. Thanks for flogging the point thoroughly, Waterbug!
 

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