What is the correct way to build a bog filter and are there substitutes for bog filter media?

pastures

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A question to Meyer Jordan. Your suggestion of a floating "bog" is intriguing and ingenious; I assume that it would work best for shallow-root plants. My question is simply; why not float it in the main body of water where most of the nutrients are generated. Another possible solution is creating a "bog" (possibly of different depths) at the end of spit of "hard/dry" land, for physical access, surrounded 3/4 by the pond itself. Hopefully, no pumps are needed for circulation. Thank you.
 

Meyer Jordan

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A question to Meyer Jordan. Your suggestion of a floating "bog" is intriguing and ingenious; I assume that it would work best for shallow-root plants. My question is simply; why not float it in the main body of water where most of the nutrients are generated. Another possible solution is creating a "bog" (possibly of different depths) at the end of spit of "hard/dry" land, for physical access, surrounded 3/4 by the pond itself. Hopefully, no pumps are needed for circulation. Thank you.

The concept of 'floating Islands' has been around about Ten (10) years. Originally developed and patented (along with 'floating wetlands') at Maryland Aquatic Nursery, this idea has been utilized world-wide not only in back yard ponds but in industrial wetlands where efficient and dependable removal of nutrients and pollutants has been needed without a major maintenance regime or high construction costs.Constructed properly they will accommodate any type and size of aquatic plant regardless of height or depth of root zone. They work extremely well with both shallow rooted and deep rooted plants.
Somewhere along the evolution of "bogs", it has become an accepted belief that these structures need to be elevated above the water level of the pond that they are filtering. This is not true. They will work equally well when connected to the main body of the pond eliminating the need for a separate liner
 

pastures

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To addy1; your photo of your installation is absolutely striking. Congratulations to creating such an attractive scene/water gardens.
 

addy1

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To addy1; your photo of your installation is absolutely striking. Congratulations to creating such an attractive scene/water gardens.
Thanks I had fun building it. I started with the one big pond and a stream, with ponds, then added three loop ponds one 1000 gallon pond and two deck ponds. Done! lol
 
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All of the previous comments are good. Now, let me summarize some of my points of view.
1) The bog should really have "pea" gravel for proper filtration and be lined with good pond liner material. Swimming pools use sand!
2) The bog needs to be deep, not long and should equal about 10% of the pond's volume. Water is usually pumped into the bottom of the bog through say 3/4" PVC piping constructed in a "H" pattern, center fed from the pump with each leg having numerous 1/4" holes (drilled through both sides) spaced every 3 to 6 inches. The "H" distribution piping is covered by 4" corrugated PVC drain pipe cut horizontally in half, so each leg is covered. Next cover the corrugated piping with about 12 to 18" of the pea gravel. Cover this layer of pea gravel with 1" thick heavy filtration media. Then fill the rest of the bog up with the pea gravel. The bog should have a discharge chute that is below the top of the liner and discharges into your pond.
3) The reason for the filter media is to reduce the possibility of any bog plants roots from working their way down and clogging up the distribution piping.
4) For reference, my bog is 24" x 72" x 48" deep and filters both a 1,500 gal and a 1,000 gal pond with lots of fish.
5) Depending on how much filtration you need to do, which would be fairly minimal if your pond is lined (which I highly recommend) but could be substantial if not, you will need to periodically backwash the bog. To do this, I connect a separate pump to the supply pipe to the bog and suck the water out from the bottom, which adding water to the top with a garden hose. I do this until the water discharge become clear. In my situation, my pond has a lot of fish in it, so I usually backwash the bog ever 2-3 years.
6) Bogs are great for fish ponds as they develop good bacteria that digest the fish's waste and keep the pond water crystal clear all year long. But in your case, with no fish and just a swimming hole, you will need chlorination assuming you don't want to get sick from eventually polluted water, hence reason #1 to fully line your pond. Reason #2 is that an unlined chlorinated pond will quite possible leach into the water table which I dare say that the EPA won't appreciate.
7) In constructing your pond. your really need to support the top 2-3 feet of the perimeter, preferable with concrete architectural block (shaped like a 6 sided diamond) and readily available at Lowe's or HD. Failure to adequately support the upper perimeter will most likely result in gradual cave-ins. Also, tuck in the pond liner half way up this perimeter wall from the inside to the outside leaving the top several rows of block exposed. Grade the surround landscape to just about 1/2 below the top course of blocks. Use a skimmer on a side opposite of the bog's discharge chute to allow natural circulation through the pond.
8) Finally,depending on the elevation of the bog in relation to the pond, I highly recommend installing a check valve on the pipe feeding the bog to prevent dirty water from draining back into the pond if and when the pump is off line.

Hope this helps and good luck!
Excellent info very grateful for the detail.
 
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After reading all the responses here I feel there's one if not several over looked crucial steps here.
1. With a very heavy clay content and from your picture I would say you are correct about this situation. If you plan on putting in an edpm liner you better add I bottom perimeter drain tile. any water that gets below your liner will more then likely start making bubbles under the liner and this could be a nightmare.
2. A bentonite pond with class c soils/ clay should be a 3 to 1 ratio meaning every 1 foot you have vertical you should have three feet in horizontal to obtain 1 foot of depth. Spread the bentonite over the now gradual sloping sides and rototill the bentonite into the soil if possible .

As someone suggested a cinder block wall would be an option but footings look to be a must as you soil appear rather soft. I have also seen some use sand bags and or wood beams and even studed walls with plywood. Obviously not a forever fix but I bet the hippies would love the sand bag idea.

The only way you could do a earthen base and get relatively clear water would be to use the centipede create a settlement chamber of substantial size and feet of gravel below a bog . If you were to get your bottom of the pond stable you could place a thick layer of sand then maybe some river rock. But if your soil is as soft as it looks it will need lots of maintenance over the years if you disturb it with lots of swimming/ standing on the bottom
 

Mmathis

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2) The bog needs to be deep, not long and should equal about 10% of the pond's volume.
I always thought that bogs should NOT be deep — no more than about 18” - 24,” and that long and narrow was the best configuration. The plants’ roots are only going to reach down, maybe 6”-12” and if the bog chamber is too deep, there is going to be a lot of anaerobic stuff going on down where the roots down go. IOW, stinky, smelly, gaseous, toxic stuff. Just MHO.
 

addy1

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if the bog chamber is too deep, there is going to be a lot of anaerobic stuff going on down where the roots down go. IOW, stinky, smelly, gaseous, toxic stuff. Just MHO.
Mine is 2.5 feet deep, you can dig down at any time, it never stinks. When I turn it on in the spring the water coming up through the bog smells like pond water. Never smells bad.
 
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I have done A LOT of reading both on koi , garden ,natural as well as commercial waste water treatment , and water reservoir. I believe there is a mix up of two different styles and the rules/ guide lines. If you plan on the 2" pipe up flow system bog WITH THE 3/8" PEA STONE ie fine gravel the rule is stay around a foot thick. The second system is for much larger systems These use a centipede with a large vertical pipe so that a clean up pump can be installed on a yearly or even as much as a five year maintenance. Here is one such video with a much deeper then 1 foot of gravel. And I do believe these guys know what they are doing. If you have looked at you tube for garden ponds then you will find aquascapes. I plan of doing a very similar design cut in half as the video below. including the rain water collection tank and DEEP bog of 4'
[

 
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an other thread on larger deeper bogs
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