Lowering the bank edge

[Big Lou]

Need you experts to enlighten me on how to lower the bank to waters edge. I do know there has to be a step down to prevent the pond from easily draining. Here's a photo of the area to be lowered. I will pass along your instructions to my non-pond savvy handy man so please do not skimp on the details.

Btw, after a phone conference with a State of Louisiana Forestry agent specializing in Bald Cypress trees I was told if root end pushing on the liner is a "knee" then it is safe to cut the root off at the mid point between the knee and tree. Because it is a knee root the probability of it growing back is low.

Thanks so very much.

 

[Priscilla]

Looks like you and I have similar problems. So you are going to lower the edge of the pond to water level and then a step up to prevent it from draining out. The good news is, at least you have enough liner to do your repairs. Some of my spots are bit tight on liner.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[DrCase]

What's under the liner ? Lou
If it's dirt , fill the pond to the height you want to keep it
And have the guy skim the dirt down to the water level

 

[Big Lou]

What's under the liner ? Lou
If it's dirt , fill the pond to the height you want to keep it
And have the guy skim the dirt down to the water level

The correct level is as shown.

Given your answer, I assume the sloped bank will result it better looking and more realistic than creating a liner covered water level shelf that would extend back for x ? I do realize the ultimate design is my responsibility. Just asking for expert opinion.

Thanks

 

[Lisak1]

Let me give it a shot - if the water level as shown is where you want it, I would drop the level to 6-8 inches lower while you work and cut a shelf. I would lay the liner on the shelf and then line the shelf with rock that is 8-10 inches deep (or "tall" if you will) so 2-4 inches is above the water line, the rest below. Then I would pull the excess liner up behind that rock and fold it down (folding multiple times if necessary) to just below the top edge of the rock and then back fill behind it with dirt to hold the folded liner in place tight up against the back of the rock. The folded edge should end up several inches above the level of your water line.

Some people prefer to lay the liner flat behind the rock and put mulch, dirt or pebbles over to conceal it, but I like to fold it and do the backfill behind it for two reasons. One - I think you run the risk of water wicking up and out of the pond if you lay it flat. And two, you can plant right up behind the rock, which you can't do if you have liner under the mulch or dirt. I plant both behind the rocks on the ground side and between the rocks on the pond side - in some spots in our pond you can't even see rock at all.

I know you have the additional challenge of tree roots in that area, but since you seem pretty confident you can cut the root to eliminate it I don't think it should be too big of a problem (she says from behind her computer screen in the safety of her own living room!)

Did any of that make sense? I wish I was good with the drawing programs - I'd make you a picture!

 

[Big Lou]

Thank you Lisa. Fully understand. May be to close to the tree. Great for open area. Sorta opened a can of worms with my question. Really appreciate you providing such great details. Going to copy them for reference.

 

[Lisak1]

Yeah, the tree does definitely make it more interesting! Good luck - just remember, anything is possible! (With enough time, money and patience to throw at the problem!)

 

[Big Lou]

Time and patience aplenty but actual labor time is kinda important since I'm paying my friend $20 an hour. Relates to the old saying "Can't have your cake and eat it too.".

 

[Big Lou]

Thank you both. Great information. Now prepared to finish photoshop designing.

 

[Mmathis]

Sounds like good advice from Lisak. I can't add anything. I'm just glad you finally got your info regarding the Bald Cypress!

 

[Big Lou]

Me too Maggie.