ADVICE -- PLUMBING SKIPPY-RUBBERMAID & "PARTS" LIST

[crsublette]

Actually, with 1000gph in a 70gal container , would be approximately 252 seconds (4min12sec) dwell-time.


Ok. So, for the water to "dwell" for 4 minutes, I would have to reduce gph down to 300gph for a 20gallon container. This would mean only 69% of my water feature is pushed through my filtration within a hour if using a 20 gallon container and 4 minutes "dwell time". I think I will increase this flow so at least 100% my water feature's water capacity is pushed through the filtration at least once within an hour. So, with a 20gal container and 435gph, this would be 2min46sec dwell-time.

Is 3 minutes proper dwell-time recommended by a guideline or 1000gph in 70gallons something ya came up with that has worked good for your water's ecosystem ??

Do ya have the same dwell-time for when ya use your skippy in your basement pond ??


Since it sounds like a ~4 minute dwell-time has worked well for ya, then I think I will do the same as a baseline, tweak from there that best matches my fish load, and then push an extra flow over the top of the filter to make the water coming out of the weir look good.

 

[brandonsdad02]

A threaded cap reducer would be in the plumbing section and possible by the sprinkler fittings. The threaded nipple hose adapter will screw into the female adapter on top of your down pipe. That is where you would connect your flex hose to your skippy plumbing. Not sure on the threaded cap reducer as to where it would go.

My skippy is running in over the top and not thru the side.

 

[koiguy1969]

o.k put your mind at ease...just because i plumbed thru the wall doesnt mean you should..most folks dont. they put the hose adapter right on to the down pipe. now the "T" adaptor. as i said it will allow air in, and break the syphon effect should your pump stop for any reason and the swooping style directs the water downward into the down pipe. you can see the assembly here in these pics...
*the short piece of pipe represents the down pipe
* the "T" connector goes ontop.(note the downward swoop from the input)
* the end cap has a female, "threaded" hole that will accept the hose adapter for the hose your using. (you can just get a regular cap and drill it out to accept a hose adapter)
* the black fitting is obviously a hose adapter (male, to fit the end caps threaded hole)
*and the piece of hose represents your hose from the pump
* all my connections are just press fit except the hose adapter. thru the whole filter

 

[crsublette]

Sorry man, hope I wasn't derailing this thread with my questions there. I'll shutup now, heh.

All I could find about circulation is at least once or twice the volume of the pond per hour. I guess slower if a fella has a higher biological load to filter.

o.k put your mind at ease...just because i plumbed thru the wall doesnt mean you should..most folks dont. they put the hose adapter right on to the down pipe. now the "T" adaptor. as i said it will allow air in, and break the syphon effect should your pump stop for any reason and the swooping style directs the water downward into the down pipe. you can see the assembly here in these pics...

Aaahh, Ok.

I was wondering why the water being pushed into that T would not come out through the top.

I've never had that problem, but not to say I won't ... I'm gonna add that.

How would ya "break the syphon" when coming into the tank on the side ?? I suppose a fella could put a backflow valve instead.

 

[koiguy1969]

same way.....except theres a length of pipe between the threaded end cap and the "T" ...my end cap is fastened into the wall of my tank!... check out my build thread again...it shows it alll.

 

[crsublette]

It appears my question was answer by Nakish who had that problem with water coming out of the T thing, started with post#52 in your thread then your diaphragm on post#83 in that thread answered it well. Good stuff.

same way.....except theres a length of pipe between the threaded end cap and the "T" ...my end cap is fastened into the wall of my tank!... check out my build thread again...it shows it alll.

Welp, I checked, not shown though for on the side of the tank but I see what ya mean.

 

[crsublette]

It appears my question was answer by Nakish who had that problem with water coming out of the T thing, started with post#52 in your thread then your diaphragm on post#83 in that thread answered it well. Good stuff.

Actually, heh, your solution functions like a backflow valve but constructed like an irrigation air relief valve. Pretty clever.

Did it work as intended?

 

[koiguy1969]

right on the first page...it pretty much shows and explains it all....first i built it with a normal 90* elbow..and changed it to a sweeping T adapter.... ya didnt look very good!....lol ....and yes it works as intended... it only has to introduce air into the plumbing to break the syphon. between pics in posts 1, 4, &10 you can see whats up.

 

[crsublette]

Yep, looked ... few times over ... it's all good.

I got my pipe coming into my skippy container's bottom side so to not add more head height with the vertical . By your description above, I have visualized how I should implement it.

it only has to introduce air into the plumbing to break the syphon.

Yep. When water pressure is relieved, then the air relief structure, that is the ball in a chamber with a pinhole in cap, lets the ball drop a bit to let air in so to break suction. Breaking suction is the backflow valve function. Heh, a suction-breaking backflow valve plug.

Idea behind the control valves in my irrigation pipeline infrastructure, but backwards. Pretty clever. Awesome that it works. I'm gonna try it.

 

[Mmathis]

Still don't know what a "threaded cap reducer" is....

 

[koiguy1969]

not a threaded cap reducer... go to post #18 ...look at the center pic...do you see the peice that the hose adapter screws into? that is a cap its thrteaded to accept adapters or a plug.... in our case we use a hose adapter to connect oiur hose from the pump.( if you didnt know, click on the pics so you can see them enlarged). the pictures are self explainatory. call it what you like...the peice that goes into the "T" & the hose adapter screws into.
hope i answered you questions correctly...yours and crsublette questions kind of blended together and got a bit confusing.
and crsublette....as long as the water flows smoothly there will likely be air in the system. the "T" itself is the syphon break..some people with higher flow volumes have some water flow up over the top of the "T".or if the down pipe or swirl bar plumbing should get an obstruction in flow... the ball assembly keeps that from happening. as the water rises up into the top it pushes the ball up to plug the hole. if flow is stopped or running smoothly down and thru the filter the ball is allowed to drop away from the hole and air is once again introduced into the system. hope i explained this good enough.

 

[Mmathis]

KOIGUY -- Thanks! Sorry, I can be a little dense sometimes. Most of the time I'm looking at the forums on my iPhone, which means I don't always get the best views of the photos [kinda small]. Just looked via iPad, and, WOW, your pics say it all! I "saved" those 3 pics, so will take them [iPhone] shopping with me later today. Will try LOWES.

BTW, the "Y" I got is a little different from the one you have pictured -- there were several "styles" to choose from. On the one I got, the straight part is taller -- kinda like if there was a short extension. Will that make a difference?

CRSUBLETTE -- don't mind the hijack at all.

 

[koiguy1969]

BTW, the "Y" I got is a little different from the one you have pictured -- there were several "styles" to choose from. On the one I got, the straight part is taller -- kinda like if there was a short extension. Will that make a difference?

it'll be just fine