building a 55 gal biological filter

koiguy1969

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i gotta ask... how many filters have you had using scrubbies? if none, how did you come to this conclusion that scrubbies arent as efficient?. if my scrubbies still float after 14 months(to be exact) of continuous use, doesnt that say that they must be light enough? after that same period they still look pretty clean, no sign of clogging at all, means that cleaning isnt a issue? ( they have never been cleaned or rinsed) and why would we loose any more bacteria than you, yours is a smooth surface,and drains faster, which wouild make it more apt to loosing bacteria? and i would be happy to loose anaerobic bacteria... i like that my filter has aerobic bacteria, the right bacteria!!!
 

DrDave

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We have mega fish warehouses here in San Diego. When I checked with them to see what they were using I found that all the businesses were using the plastic in one form or another. So I started to visit Koi farms and found the same thing.
I don't know what else to say.
 

koiguy1969

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o.k thats great...but you keep referring to scrubbies and sponge...the scrubbies we use ARE plastic.. only plastic, my scrubbies after 14 months of use dont just flow out my waterfall weir they pile over the sides of the tub. they have too much bouiancie if any thing. thats why i have a second light grate across the top, even the bagged ones end up outside the filter with the bag.14 months still clean and working great..that said i have no doubts that your tubes work and work well. but that doesnt take away from the fact that scrubbies work well also. youtube has a video tour of a japanese nishikigoi farm, including filter house, they use matala mat in varying densities..its amazingly close to scrubber pads and scrubby pads. i'll see if i can find and supply a link. if the japanese use it you can be pretty sure it works. thats why matala is none as 'jap matt'
 
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Beats me. I can't chime in. I just started using scrubbies 3 months ago and I love it. My first 55G barrel is all poly fill type batting for mechancial. Don't think my scrubbes will clog any time soon and if they do. I'll just clean 'em. Comparing my bio-balls and scrubbies. I can't see my bio balls perform close to what srubbies can with respect to surface area. Oh well... I don't have any proof, but all I know is, the srubbies are doing its job and I'm happy. :)

So happy, I just finished building this today (no thanks to bioforce 1000).

Note that bioforce at the bottom left. Take note at 32G garbage bin on top right. More like 20G of filtration or 50% capacity of 55G blue barrels for a 130QT. Once the bacteria colonize, fish can live in there shoulder to shoulder. LOL!

my 12" Kohaku is now doing very well after oral pigeon baytril injections. It has a cough though. Was really bad but getting better. Still has gill flukes, but not deemed an infestation, IMO. 1x dose of prazi - useless. 2x dose useless... hitting gill flukes with 4x dose; started this evening. My 70QT had skin fluke infestation and 1x dose was useless. 2x dose killed 'em all.

Going off topic again... But I found that 4ppm PP dose in my main pond for 4 hours works wonders. Scary stuff, but it works. I couldn't find any gill flukes on ~5 koi i scraped! And all the koi were really happy the next day. Alas, the gill flukes will come back... can't kill the eggs. :-(

Back on topic... I'm never buying pressurized filters again, unless I strike it rich.
 

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DrCase

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I have some skippy pads in all 3 of my drums .my first drum has mostly cut up pvc pipes and topped with skippy pads , 2nd drum is all skippy pads , and the 3rd is skippy pads with cut pvc pipes on top to fill it up.
All 3 drums work very well...most any thing will work , and if you have a cheep supply its even better
 
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Well after being plagued by leaks, I finally got my pump, filter, etc running constantly. The water was murky and cleared up in 48 hours. crystal clear to 4 1/2 feet deep. I put a mix of a bunch of stuff as my filter media. I cut strips of plastic sheeting, used plastic scubbies, 1/2" pieces of tubing and I found a HUGE roll of deer netting from Lowe's for $15 and I wadded it up and it is FANTASTIC!!! It takes up about 1/4 of the 55 gall drum and it seems to work very well. I knew that the bio filter was the way to go and I am so glad I did it this year because it is virtually maintainence free once you get it going.
 
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Can you make this a sticky or make a sticky for this and the 70 gallon Skippy filter? Some forums I have been in make often referred to post or how to’s that are used often stick to the top for easy reference
 
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So guys... what's the consensus on optimum flow rate for these 55G filters? There is some residual ammonia on my three 55G barrel setup. 1st barrel is mechanical. I don't think there is something to be alarmed about yet. In the pond, tested with 1 bottle API test kit clearly shows zero but two bottle API shows something. Tested on last stage of filter too and there is no measurable amount in there.

Currently about 600GPH going through this system. I want to boast it to about 1400GPH or once my pond is fully filled, it'll be almost 1x turnover rate per hour. vs 2 or so right now. Good enough? Go more? BTW, bulkhead is 2". Don't know theoretical limit before barrels overflow. LOL!


What have you guys done with your builds or the most efficient. My pond basement with max water will be 1500G. Right now it's probably 1250G.
 
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Update. Tested water again. Now I can't detect any measurable ammonia in pond. I fed them big time last night, so go figure. Anyway... It's a wake up call. My pump probably will need upgrading soon. In a few months time. At least I can now save some $$$ and not spend some bucks right away.

Anyhow, if you guys haven't checked your local Lowes for 2" ball valves... Check... A Lowes just opened 5 mins drive from me. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw they carried 2" ball valves. I couldn't believe my eyes again when I saw the price. Only $10CDN! I bought the whole box to stock up (four). I priced these everywhere and next cheapest place I found was $18CDN and I still have one left over from first project!!! Exact same ones!
 
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jameskoi said:
So guys... what's the consensus on optimum flow rate for these 55G filters? There is some residual ammonia on my three 55G barrel setup. 1st barrel is mechanical. I don't think there is something to be alarmed about yet. In the pond, tested with 1 bottle API test kit clearly shows zero but two bottle API shows something. Tested on last stage of filter too and there is no measurable amount in there.

Currently about 600GPH going through this system. I want to boast it to about 1400GPH or once my pond is fully filled, it'll be almost 1x turnover rate per hour. vs 2 or so right now. Good enough? Go more? BTW, bulkhead is 2". Don't know theoretical limit before barrels overflow. LOL!


What have you guys done with your builds or the most efficient. My pond basement with max water will be 1500G. Right now it's probably 1250G.


Im new here, and just started my research on my pond, but I thought you wanted the water to go thru the system slower. If you have 600 GPH going thru 160 gallons of filter than they filter is completly cycled 3.75 times per hour and I read that you want the water level to rise like an inch every 4 minutes....either way I have no idea what im talking about but just saying making it go faster may make the filter not work as well.
https://www.gardenpondforum.com/showpost.php?p=11868&postcount=41

Also you say the first one is mechanical? what does that mean?
 
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Just a hint. If you want to try bioballs check with your local reef tank forum. We dont commonly use them in reef tanks but it seems every marine filter has them.So the reef people will just give them way. I asked and ended up with 2 big garbage bags full for free:coolgleema:
 

koiguy1969

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mechanical is intended for the simple removal of solids. although some bacterial colonization does occur its not its fundamental purpose. this keeps excessive build up in the chambers to follow to a minimum. it is true a slower rate allows more time for the bacteria to do its thing, too much hang time allows the oxygen levels to fall and harms or kills the bacteria. if you want to maintain a minimal flow rate you should run an air pump and stone in the chamber(s) to compensate.. its actually a good idea anyways, the more oxygen the happier and healthier the colony. i do this in my filters.
 
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JohnR said:
Just a hint. If you want to try bioballs check with your local reef tank forum. We dont commonly use them in reef tanks but it seems every marine filter has them.So the reef people will just give them way. I asked and ended up with 2 big garbage bags full for free:coolgleema:

Free? Wow, lucky you! Bio balls are still worth some bucks even if were used, like forever! Good for you!

For those who want to score on cheap bio-balls.... and if you're in the US.. check out http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18401/si1383281/cl0/bioballs50gallonsaprox3000balls

you can buy 50G worth for $140. It's a great deal for Canadians but not sure if it is for most guys here. I don't think there is such a thing as cheap bio balls in Canadian. I tried and failed and went to scrub pads.
 

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