Can someone point me to the Algae-101 post(s)?

Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
13,075
Reaction score
13,395
Location
Northern IL
Showcase(s):
1
Well, I’ll follow that advice once I get it within reason. It could be at 10 or 11, no way to know. Once I get it within a readable value I’ll feel okay.

I doubt your pH is above 9 - your fish would be showing signs of distress. It's not unusual for a newer ponds to have higher pH - and I realize your pond isn't new but you emptied the pond and basically started over. And you're doing forced water changes almost daily. Again - I'd leave the pH alone, but that's just my opinion.

The clay you have is probably koi clay or montmorillonite clay. It is beneficial for the fish as it adds minerals and trace elements to the water. It also binds toxins and acts as a flocculant.
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
3,990
Reaction score
2,682
Location
Mount Pocono, Pennsylvania
Hardiness Zone
6a
I would stay FAR away from any type of algaecide. Too many horror stories of fish dying from so called fish safe algaecide.

You need to find that leak. Way too much water loss. You can't go on like this. Do you think you damaged the liner when you scooped all that muck out? What did you use? I use a pool net.

The best way to locate the leak is to let the water leak until it stops. The leak will be at that level. If it gets dangerously low for your fish, maybe capture them and house them temporarily in a kiddie pool, stock tank or other container(s) filled with pond water. Aeration will be needed.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
62
Reaction score
22
Country
United States
I would stay FAR away from any type of algaecide. Too many horror stories of fish dying from so called fish safe algaecide.

You need to find that leak. Way too much water loss. You can't go on like this. Do you think you damaged the liner when you scooped all that muck out? What did you use? I use a pool net.

The best way to locate the leak is to let the water leak until it stops. The leak will be at that level. If it gets dangerously low for your fish, maybe capture them and house them temporarily in a kiddie pool, stock tank or other container(s) filled with pond water. Aeration will be needed.
Did all that. Multiple times actually. Water kept draining. Pulled the fish and it kept going down. It’s in the bottom area somewhere. I think it’s inside one of the holes of the cinderblocks used for the center fountain area. Anyway...
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
62
Reaction score
22
Country
United States
So, what's next...a new liner or find and fix the leak?
I don’t know. Maybe a liquid rubber treatment... maybe putting a sand/Bentonite mix on the bottom and praying every night... ;)

I seriously don’t know. This has been mentally taxing to say the least. Too much work to replace the liner, that’s my last option.
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
3,990
Reaction score
2,682
Location
Mount Pocono, Pennsylvania
Hardiness Zone
6a
Are the fish still out of the pond? If so, let it drain down. Find the leak and repair it. You can't go on like this. That's a lot of water to be constantly adding. Plus the fact that you're stressing your fish in a couple ways. And it sounds like you're stressed as well. Fix it and be done with it.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
13,384
Reaction score
10,486
Location
Ct
Showcase(s):
1
Hardiness Zone
6b
Country
United States
If you have open cinder blocks where the rubber is spanning across the opening with no other help or protection I would say you got lucky for ten years. the water will constantly be pushing the rubber into that void , stretching it and scraping it as it does
 
Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
1,142
Reaction score
528
Location
Le Roy, New York
You can easily kill the stuff growing on the center fountain by turning off the water and throwing some sodium percarbonate on it. Not bicarbonate, percarbonate. You can buy it on eBay. Leave it for about 2 hours then turn the water back on. In a few days, it will be gone. I would also throw a few cups in the pond and see if it can help. It works best if the area is wet but not underwater.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
13,384
Reaction score
10,486
Location
Ct
Showcase(s):
1
Hardiness Zone
6b
Country
United States
I don’t know. Maybe a liquid rubber treatment... maybe putting a sand/Bentonite mix on the bottom and praying every night... ;)

I seriously don’t know. This has been mentally taxing to say the least. Too much work to replace the liner, that’s my last option.
one other possibility is to push with your hand into the liner if you find the spot where the water has been leaking it should feel softer then everywhere else
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
3,990
Reaction score
2,682
Location
Mount Pocono, Pennsylvania
Hardiness Zone
6a
It's either get a new liner or do this...
Let it drain down, locate the hole, determine it's size. Get all the water away from the hole and let it dry. Clean thoroughly. I'm guessing alcohol or peroxide won't harm anything. Buy a patch kit and follow it's instructions. I searched EPDM patch kit and came up with "The PondGuy" who had one that was 8" and self adhesive for $6.99. I had my doubts, but all the reviews were great.

I would check that there isn't an eroded hole under the liner hole. If so, find a way to fill it in. If you don't, the water pressure may push down on it and tear the patch.

And as with any patching or glue adhesion, the surface has to be hospital clean. Any speck of dirt or film won't allow for good adhesion.

Keep us posted...
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
3,990
Reaction score
2,682
Location
Mount Pocono, Pennsylvania
Hardiness Zone
6a
Years ago I had a leak and used a pond caulking that was supposed to fill leaks and work under water. That stuff was horrible and didn't work at all.
So dont waste your time or money on anything like that.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
13,384
Reaction score
10,486
Location
Ct
Showcase(s):
1
Hardiness Zone
6b
Country
United States
Years ago I had a leak and used a pond caulking that was supposed to fill leaks and work under water. That stuff was horrible and didn't work at all.
So dont waste your time or money on anything like that.
If you want to skim on cost buy a patch kit for epdm and where so many here are so uncomfortable with the whole process i would recommend patching the patch. cut one patch about three or four inches larger then the rip or tear then place a patch that is at least 4 inches larger over the patch you just installed . If possible patch both sides of the hole. It's actually pretty easy
 

addy1

water gardener / gold fish and shubunkins
Moderator
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
44,340
Reaction score
29,092
Location
Frederick, Maryland
Showcase(s):
1
Hardiness Zone
6b
Country
United States
I patched my 1000 gallon stock tank that way, a patch over the hole, then a patch over the patch. Then more goop on the edge of that patch, still holding many many years later.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
62
Reaction score
22
Country
United States
To all... I didn’t realize I had additional replies, I wasn’t notified and had not checked, so I apologize for not being “present”.
So to reply to some of the posts...

- Reference the “hole”: there is no discoverable hole. I’ve already looked for it multiple times, and I mean I REALLY LOOKED for it! I got so frustrated that I hired a pool leak company for $350 to find the hole because I couldn’t— no hole, no soft spots, no anything. I don’t mean to be blunt, but all of these suggestions have been exhausted. Note: The pool leak company only charged me $175 because they failed (but in the past, had found an 1/8” sized cut, through sonic detection, around the grounding lug INSIDE my light housing bell of my pool).

- fish are in pond, they were only out twice for a couple days each to conduct “tests”. (I drained the pond twice to completely inspect the bottom, every crease, every fold, etc. by hand.)

UPDATE of the situation:
- pond SEEMS like it is losing water at a slower rate. Could be because 1) lots of afternoon thunderstorms in Florida, 2) algae now coating entire pond bottom and sides — I think there is “carpet algae” as well as the string algae, 3) not quite as hot and dry so less evaporation, 4) a little of all of these combined
- pond water is VERY clear
- string algae is pretty bad but is mostly on sides
- bought an aerator, but HAVE NOT installed it yet. Company sent wrong length of hose (15’ vs 25’) so I’m waiting on the new hose before I can install it. Early next week.
Have dosed the pond once, well actually twice now (including 1 hr ago) with NUALGI product. Lots of great testimonials, expensive but long lasting due,to the minute dosing requirements. 60ml bottle (mini-shampoo travel size?) should last me about 4+ months for $25. So $6 per month isn’t actually expensive, it just seems that way when you get that tiny little bottle! Lol
- I’m going to rig a skimmer setup. Bought a “kid pool” skimmer and I’m going to mod it for my pond. Unfortunately I wish I’d don’t this last week... one of my oldest, biggest fish was killed because he got stuck against the intake tube to my pump. I’d been proactive to prevent this by putting a “cage” on the end, but it didn’t help. The string algae has reduced the amount of open area on the cage making it a little stronger vacuum where it’s still open, and the fish seem to like hanging out in the algae near/underneath the pump pipe. Broke my heart, it really did. The skimmer will act as a safety valve; this won’t happen again after I’m done.
- looking to get more plants to supplement the two Irises. Put one Iris in the pond on the shelf for now, the other one is still in the bog area. Both are getting very large, almost time to trim back.

QUESTION:
I don’t know what good bacteria looks like, or if it’s even visible. There are brown specs all over the string algae now, wondering what it is. Pics are hard because of reflections but take a look...
D43092DF-6B2C-4378-ABD2-2EF37A7D90AA.jpeg
535E64BB-3E04-4EF8-B29F-F09C4E8F266F.jpeg
CFE6C09D-BF29-488E-9329-B6E2F963F7E5.jpeg
FBC2CC14-4D1D-4EFE-A39A-AFC923867512.jpeg


Pictures #2 & #4 show it the best.

Thanks for everything!

V/r
// Radar //
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
62
Reaction score
22
Country
United States
If you have open cinder blocks where the rubber is spanning across the opening with no other help or protection I would say you got lucky for ten years. the water will constantly be pushing the rubber into that void , stretching it and scraping it as it does
Missed this in my reply so I’ll address it specifically. So, the layer go like this: earth, old carpet, liner, large flat 24” square stepping stone, another small layer of liner to cover stone, two cinder blocks facing holes up, concrete statue/centerpiece.
C2B015F4-C378-4E96-9C3D-97912C57159B.jpeg
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
30,783
Messages
508,599
Members
13,043
Latest member
cisifom

Latest Threads

Top