Confused

[glee]

I got my new pond in and it is right at 3500 gallons .I used the meter out by the road to get the reading .I built a 150 gallon Skippy filter for my water fall filter and I am using a pond master hy-drive 4800 pump .After reading here I wanted to go with a low mait bio filter set up .I only have about 2 pounds of fish in the pond now .I bought a test kit and all looks good but the ph is high and it is going to rain the next few days .What I am not sure about is 1.Water changes and 2 UV sterilizers
Do you still do a weekly water change when using a bio filter? (Some one told me water changes are hard on the bacteria)

Should I use a UV sterilizer? (I read they kill the good bacteria)

 

[Chef Dave]

I don't think that pond water quality is a matter of routinely changing out your pond water as much as it is a matter of eliminating nitrites through the use of pond friendly bacteria.

Healthy ponds have bacteria which combine ammonia and nitrites into non-toxic compounds. New ponds will not have a nitrite reading because the water is relatively fresh. However, if you get nitrite readings after the pond is established, you will have a problem that will need immediate corrective action.

Nitrite is a clear and odorless element which can show up in ponds that are perfectly clear. It is deadly to fish since it damages nervous systems and binds red blood cells causing fish to gasp and eventually die.

UV filters may be used unless you have a nitrite problem. If a nitrite problem develops, you will need to turn off the UV filters. For more information on what to do if there is a nitrite spike, read the following article: Garden Pond Water Nitrites: http://www.the-artistic-garden.com/pond-water-nitrite.html

 

[koiguy1969]

what do you consider high ph? good bacterias colonise on hard surfaces.u.v lights only kill whats suspended in the water. that said, its a good idea to turn off the u.v for a day after adding beneficial (aerobic) bacterias till they find a home if you decide to use one. i use one for about a week or so a year. early season i let my water green, turn on my u.v untill water clears plus a couple extra days, disconnect it, clean and dry it and put it away. with your fish load, your water parameters should be real safe and stable for ammonia nitrates and nitrites. as far as ph.. i might suggest crushed oyster shells in an old nylon stocking, put in a high water flow area to buffer (lock in) your ph, once you get it where you want it.
hope this helped

 

[glee]

The ph measured 9 and I checked the city water and that is what it read also .My water is clear but I do see some alage starting to grow on the liner

 

[newday3000]

This article is totally misleading. A bio filter converts ammonia to Nitrite and a different bacteria (that grows in the same filter media) converts Nitrite to Nitrate. Both bacteria types grow on the same media. Finding Nitrite means you will have ammonia present as well and the cycle has not completed.

It's extremely rare to have no ammonia and only Nitrite present.

Best thing is test for Nitrate and when it's 25ppm or more due a water change to dilute it. Water changes don't harm bacteria as long as chorline and cholrimine is removed first. Aquariums need constant water changes. Ponds just need them less frequently.