Good morning!

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by stonecreek1, Oct 29, 2015.

  1. stonecreek1

    bettasngoldfish Maria

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    This is a link to help you understand the nitrogen cycle http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html it will explain how to handle it without fish and what to do if you already have fish in the tank.

    Hopefully it will help you understand what is going on in your stock tank :)

    I don't want to seem like a broken record here but please stop adding vinegar to your tank.
     
    bettasngoldfish, Oct 30, 2015
    #21
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  2. stonecreek1

    sissy sissy

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    yep it is acidic and never understood why you would be told to put that in to start with .They are fish not a salad .
     
    sissy, Oct 30, 2015
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  3. stonecreek1

    Meyer Jordan Tadpole

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    Must agreed with the majority here. Leave the pH alone. What needs to be closely monitored presently is the Nitrite level. It is presently quite high. To effectively and safely administer any pond treatment, you must have a reliable test kit.
     
    Meyer Jordan, Oct 30, 2015
    #23
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  4. stonecreek1

    MitchM

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    Agree with everyone else about stopping adding vinegar.
    A liquid test kit should be one of your priorities, especially when first setting up a pond, or holding tub.
    At a minimum you should have PH, KH, Ammonia and Nirite. API makes a master test kit that you might want to look into getting.
    I can't think of what would be clogging up your filter at this point, but if you're going to clean it, ony do as much as is needed to keep the water flowing through it. Filters are an excellent area for healthy bacteria to live.
     
    MitchM, Oct 30, 2015
    #24
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  5. stonecreek1

    Marshall Aquatic Turtle Rescue & Adoption

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    I love the Koi pond with optional house... ;) I am not an expert on koi but I have had similar issues and found that patience is sometimes the best solution. Every time you add something or adjust a parameter you are in essence starting back at square one of an experiment that is very unpredictable. Now don't get me wrong, If a major problem presents itself then by all means remedy it but if it is minor things at least give nature an adequate period of time to fix it naturally. Oh and welcome to the forum.
     
    Marshall, Oct 31, 2015
    #25
  6. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    Thank you very much! I appreciate the wisdom! They seem very content with the rocks that I moved in there today. I am just going to get the test to be able to check all the parameters and agree with you, give it more time to run its cycle. I am most grateful for everyone's thoughts!!!
     
    stonecreek1, Oct 31, 2015
    #26
  7. stonecreek1

    haver79

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    Welcome and thats a beautiful pond you have there. Good luck with your indoor babies.
     
    haver79, Oct 31, 2015
    #27
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  8. stonecreek1

    addy1 water gardener / gold fish and shubunkins Moderator

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    Welcome too our group! Beautiful pond you built.
     
    addy1, Nov 1, 2015
    #28
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  9. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    Ok, This is where I need the help Please! I finally made it into the store today to get the test kit. Here are my results. Any advice as to what I need to do with any of these numbers. I did lose two babies this morning, so I think it has to do with the Nitrite level? They still are flashing along the bottom...
    PH: 7.4
    Ammonia: .25
    Nitrite: between 2-5 The chart has a 2 then it jumps to 5, and the color is in between somewhere, but I am thinking closer to 4-5
    and Nitrate: 5

    So what advice can anyone give me? Again, I am 3 weeks into having them in the tank....
    Thanks!!
     
    stonecreek1, Nov 1, 2015
    #29
  10. stonecreek1

    Meyer Jordan Tadpole

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    Your tank is apparently about half-way through the cycling process, hence the high Nitrite level. Now that you have a fairly accurate rest result, a simple temporary solution to lowering the toxicity of Nitrite in your tank would be to add One (1) teaspoon of pond salt. No more, no less. This should get you through the remainder to the cycling without any additional fish loss. Once the tank has completely cycled, start doing 25% water changes to reduce the salt level. This is one of the few times that I recommend water changes.
     
    Meyer Jordan, Nov 1, 2015
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  11. stonecreek1

    MitchM

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    Do you have a calculator that gave you that amount?
    I came up with a different number (5 tsp) using this calculator: http://www.fishtanksandponds.co.uk/calculators/salt-treat-nitrite.html
     
    MitchM, Nov 1, 2015
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  12. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    I will wait to hear? I have a 300 gallon tank, but I would guess it is about 280 Gallons because it is not full. Do you have a recommendation as to what kind of salt? Thank you for the info!!! And also, the text kit recommends StressZyme when you have a high Nitrite. Do you say skip that??
     
    stonecreek1, Nov 1, 2015
    #32
  13. stonecreek1

    MitchM

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    No, add the 1 tsp now. Do not use iodized table salt. What type of salt do you have on hand now?
    Also, if you come across any other dead fish, have a look at what colour their gills are - pink, red or brown.

    I'm not familiar with Stresszyme, sorry.

    .
     
    MitchM, Nov 1, 2015
    #33
  14. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    I actually do not have any salt on hand! I think I would be able to only get something at a Walmart on a Sunday evening. The gills were red by the way. The only salt I have is sea salt and himalyian sea salt...
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2015
    stonecreek1, Nov 1, 2015
    #34
  15. stonecreek1

    MitchM

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    Red gills indicate ammonia poisoning, so there is nothing you could have done for them.
    The red gills are to be expected if the fish have been in the tub since the beginning of the cycle.

    I'm not very familiar with Walmart, but if they have a pet section, they should carry aquarium or pond salt.

    .
     
    MitchM, Nov 1, 2015
    #35
  16. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    OK, They should have it, they do have any aquarium section. I will run up right now. Thank you!!!
     
    stonecreek1, Nov 1, 2015
    #36
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  17. stonecreek1

    Meyer Jordan Tadpole

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    Actually I got that dosage from two different independent sites that use a 300 gallon tank as an example. I would think that the proper procedure for dosing with salt for Nitrite toxicity would be the same as that used in dosing a pond; one would gradually add the salt over the course of several days to minimize any stress/shock to the fish.
    I would think that the prudent course of action would be to start with the One (1) teaspoon dose and observe the behavior of the fish, adding One (1) teaspoon/day, if needed, for up to 3 days. (Salt should be dissolved in water before adding to tank.) Dosage should cease when the fish begin to show less symptoms of stress.
    NOTE: Adding salt will not change the results of any test for Nitrite. The salt only alters the osmotic balance of the gill membrane.
    Stresszyme is a Mars/API product that basically performs the same function as salt.
     
    Meyer Jordan, Nov 1, 2015
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  18. stonecreek1

    stonecreek1

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    Thank you! I added 1 tsp last night. I am going to observe and see if I should add more this afternoon. The dosage on the bag says 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons. So if they are flashing, could that be because of the Nitrite in the tank?
     
    stonecreek1, Nov 2, 2015
    #38
  19. stonecreek1

    bettasngoldfish Maria

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    bettasngoldfish, Nov 2, 2015
    #39
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  20. stonecreek1

    Meyer Jordan Tadpole

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    After re-reading this thread, apparently all of us neglected to mention a very important subject.
    If you are still feeding the fish...STOP!
    This only exacerbated your problem and extends the time it will take for the tank to cycle. The fish will be OK.
     
    Meyer Jordan, Nov 2, 2015
    #40
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