Proper Spacing of Cuts For Bog Filter Pipe

[drjay9051]

Ready to build the distribution network for my 16x4 bog filter. Do I space the cuts in the pipe further apart at the beginning and closer towards the far end or will the pressure equalize and just space cuts evenly, say every 6 inches ?

I'm thinking pressure will equalize when bog is filled but I want to do this right so I do not need to remove 3 yards of pea gravel to rebuild distribution pipes.

 

[GBBUDD]

I am of the school to just do it evenly i did like every 6 inches . The key is not to cut more than a 1/3 of the way through the pipe and make it too weak..

The other trick I'll share is I taped the pvc pipes together to a board side by side so I just ran the circular saw right across my pipes all together.

I should add the pump that was going to this bog was planned to be no more than 2 or 3 thousand gallons.

The bog once it starts to clog / a good this water looks for the path of least resistance thus it matters not about pressure spacing eventualy the paths will be like an organ push one key to give air to one area then it starts to clog and the old cloged area decays to the point the pressure blows it clear.

 

[drjay9051]

I am of the school to just do it evenly i did like every 6 inches . The key is not to cut more than a 1/3 of the way through the pipe and make it too weak..

The other trick I'll share is I taped the pvc pipes together to a board side by side so I just ran the circular saw right across my pipes all together.

I should add the pump that was going to this bog was planned to be no more than 2 or 3 thousand gallons.

The bog once it starts to clog / a good this water looks for the path of least resistance thus it matters not about pressure spacing eventualy the paths will be like an organ push one key to give air to one area then it starts to clog and the old cloged area decays to the point the pressure blows it clear.View attachment 167785

Evenly spaced it shall be.
Getting abit morecostly than I had envisuoned.
I used 60 10 inch Timberlok screws on the ties over $120.
Hey cant take it with me and way more secure than spikes I'd think

 

[drjay9051]

I am of the school to just do it evenly i did like every 6 inches . The key is not to cut more than a 1/3 of the way through the pipe and make it too weak..

The other trick I'll share is I taped the pvc pipes together to a board side by side so I just ran the circular saw right across my pipes all together.

I should add the pump that was going to this bog was planned to be no more than 2 or 3 thousand gallons.

The bog once it starts to clog / a good this water looks for the path of least resistance thus it matters not about pressure spacing eventualy the paths will be like an organ push one key to give air to one area then it starts to clog and the old cloged area decays to the point the pressure blows it clear.View attachment 167785

BTW:

I appreciate all your help with my current build.

Thanks to others as well.

 

[GBBUDD]

Evenly spaced it shall be.
Getting abit morecostly than I had envisuoned.
I used 60 10 inch Timberlok screws on the ties over $120.
Hey cant take it with me and way more secure than spikes I'd think

Thats one dinner at your favorite restaraunt. Yes I too spent a small fortune all together. But no desire to go on vacation. Or search for something to do each weekend . Grab a tablet a drink throw a burger on the barbie q

 

[drjay9051]

Thats one dinner at your favorite restaraunt. Yes I too spent a small fortune all together. But no desire to go on vacation. Or search for something to do each weekend . Grab a tablet a drink throw a burger on the barbie q

Same here. Moved to N. central Florida. Bought a small 10 acre farm, couple of horses 3 alpaca, one llama and a dog. Im on vacation everyday as I see it.

Happy Easter, BTW.

Yet another question:

I understand running a length of liner from the pond and nailing it to the wooden bog wall and spillway The bog is all of 18 inches from pond edge. The bog liner goes on top of pond liner allowing a good overlap, say a foot or so.

Here is where I am a bit lost. After calculations I will be moving app. 3000 GPH through the bog. So my spillway should be about 25-30 inches wide. I am considering a piece of plexiglass or stainless to allow for a nice sheeting effect.Of course I could just go with the wooden spillway.

If I opt for plexi do I place the plexi under the bog liner or on top of the liner?

Also trying to visualize tucking the bog liner at the corners with trimming while not allowing for seepage.
Since it is not a commercial spillway sold by the trade with gaskets etc is the answer to shape the spillway sort of concave using my chainsaw? Somebody said leave it rectangular and seal with waterfall foam. Someone else said, No ! Foam is not waterproof.
I do not use typical Firestone EPDM but rather HDRPE ( high density reinforced Polyethylene) It is 30 mil and warrantied for 40 years. I realize the typical liner is about 45 mil but this is like kevlar. I used it in a pond in Ft. Lauderdale and it lasted 20 years at which point I moved to Ocala area. Likely still watertight.

Been using for a long time. Supplier is American tilapia. https://americantilapia.com/ Right down the road from me. Way less expensive then typical liner.

I mention this as it is less "pliable" than EDPM so a bit tougher to fold around corners if that makes a difference when working on the weir.

Thoughts?.

 

[GBBUDD]

Same here. Moved to N. central Florida. Bought a small 10 acre farm, couple of horses 3 alpaca, one llama and a dog. Im on vacation everyday as I see it.

Happy Easter, BTW.

Yet another question:

I understand running a length of liner from the pond and nailing it to the wooden bog wall and spillway The bog is all of 18 inches from pond edge. The bog liner goes on top of pond liner allowing a good overlap, say a foot or so.

Here is where I am a bit lost. After calculations I will be moving app. 3000 GPH through the bog. So my spillway should be about 25-30 inches wide. I am considering a piece of plexiglass or stainless to allow for a nice sheeting effect.Of course I could just go with the wooden spillway. OVER POND LINER UNDER BOG LINER BUT BECAUSE YOU NO LONGER HAVE THAT MUCH OF AN OVERLAP YOU NEED TO SEAL THE LINERS WITH CAULK OR SEAM THEM THEN LAY YOUR WEIR WITH THE BOG LINER DRAPED OVER THE WEIR. IT DOES GET A BIT CONFUSING BECAUSE OVER THE ORDER IN WHICH THINGS ARE DONE AND HOW FAR.



Also trying to visualize tucking the bog liner at the corners with trimming while not allowing for seepage. Uncured rubber is THE ANSWER HERE IT OR PREFORMED CORNERS ANY ROOFING SUPLLIER HSS THEM.
Since it is not a commercial spillway sold by the trade with gaskets etc is the answer to shape the spillway sort of concave using my chainsaw? Somebody said leave it rectangular and seal with waterfall foam. Someone else said, No ! Foam is not waterproof. FOAM IS NOT WATER PROOF BUT IT SLOWS THE WATER FLOW WAY DOWN. BUT ONCE DRY IT CAN BE COATED WITH A WATERPROOF CAULKING.

I do not use typical Firestone EPDM but rather HDRPE ( high density reinforced Polyethylene) It is 30 mil and warrantied for 40 years. I realize the typical liner is about 45 mil but this is like kevlar. I used it in a pond in Ft. Lauderdale and it lasted 20 years at which point I moved to Ocala area. Likely still watertight.

Been using for a long time. Supplier is American tilapia. https://americantilapia.com/ Right down the road from me. Way less expensive then typical liner.

I mention this as it is less "pliable" than EDPM so a bit tougher to fold around corners if that makes a difference when working on the weir.
I HAVE NOT WORKED THAT MATERIAL ENOUGH TO SAY BUT I BELIVE IT CAN BE SEAMED TAPED AND CAULKED JUST LIKE EPDM

Thoughts?.