skippy pump math and other questions

koiguy1969

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a sieve has the water flow thru a screen open air, in other words, the waste is trapped above the sieves water level. so theyre caught outside of the water column. and a sieve is plumbed before the pump. so the wastes arent pureed by the pumps impellor. this keeps them larger, and more intact, so they easier to catch.
 
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Ok some good thoughts here, I think I have a lot to contemplate. Having less fish doesn’t break my heart – I would much rather just have a couple very healthy fish. I read a bit on Bakki filters – looks like the key to them is lots of water flow, which is the opposite my understanding of desireable long retention time in the skippy filters. So flow is more important for the aerobic bacteria than retention time? I do like the idea that I could route the flow off them to help push waste to a bottom drain(s). Are they loud? I think I want subtle dripping not rushing water. I guess I could damper the sound by enclosing the Bakki in a chamber like some people do. So with the Bakki idea the top half of the tower would be an enclosed bakki funneling into a submerged portion (sounds like a downflow skippy to me) also filled with media that then exits to create river flow BD. With that I am looking at 1500 gph plus head. Are Bakkis or Skippys easier to make? Are Bakkis really that much better than a skippy for biological filtration?

As far as mechanical filtration goes I was thinking of a prefilter from Russell water gardens http://www.russellwatergardens.com/Filters/Pond-Sieve.php expensive but I like the ease of cleaning and not needing to replace media. I get that good mechanical filtration is a must for good bio filtration so I want to make it easy to clean out. I like the Oase screenmatics but they are so expensive (and probably overkill for this size pond) Im sure I could figure out a way to push a skimmer outflow into the same prefilter.
 
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Now between all the different pics he drew for me, I am soooo lost now. With a "pile of rocks" does that mean this was NOT the one he was explaining needed a solids seperator at the bottom?
Sorry, I don't read every post...but a Trickle Tower is just a pile of rocks (or rock like things made of plastic like Bio Balls). Like I said, people like to "improve" the TT design and that's fine for them. Unfortunately they sometimes like to present their design as a TT and that can get confusing. Welcome to the internet.

Unlike you all, I can not wrap my head around formulas... I need to hear x size would work for xxx gallons with an average fish load.
Then I suggest not dealing with formulas if that's something you're unable to do. Instead use the trial and error method. Build whatever filter your gut tells you, measure water and deal with the results by changing water, adding ammonia binders, and adding more filters if needed. It may cost you some fish but you'll get there. The formula and thinking stuff is only used to reduce risk, save time and money, but it does take more effort up front than most people like. More funner to start building stuff

Hubby's answer to most of my questions is when you think you have enough filtration, double it LOL. (That may be a personnal jab at me LOL.)
That's actually a pretty standard way to look at filters. Filters aren't digital. They house living animals which work for you. You have to provide food, shelter, temp, pH, etc. Because they're living their consumption of food varies with O2, ammonia, KH, etc. So twice the amount is a reasonable target imo.

The other issue is that without formulas and such it's difficult to know you have "twice as much" filtering than needed. So when most people say they have or built twice as much as needed it should be taken with a grain of sand...they have no idea. What they're actually saying is they hope, or tried, to have twice as much.
 
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Bakki filters – looks like the key to them is lots of water flow, which is the opposite my understanding of desireable long retention time in the skippy filters. So flow is more important for the aerobic bacteria than retention time?
The data on how Bakki works has pointed in many different directions. While they all seem to get the job done it looks like they work differently depending on factors that are nor currently understood. For example some seem to out gas ammonia in a mechanical not bio way, while others seem to be more bio.

Higher flow Bakki rates may have something to do with out gassing ammoinia and maybe nitrate, but no one's proven yet that as far as I know. Basically this only concerns people who want lower nitrate levels which is not an issue for most people. For everyone else Bakki seems works at any flow rate whether it's by out gassing or bio conversion shouldn't matter much.

The info you find on Skippy is in general going to be lets say theoretical. It is human nature to build something with an expected result and then assuming the thing built is responsible for the results. The retention time thing for Skippy was always a complete fabrication. You physically can't push water thru a Skippy (a real Skippy, not things called Skippy just because it's a catchy name) very fast. So people turned that into a plus by making up the retention time thing. Repeated often. What you will never see is anyone with a table showing different ammonia conversion rates for a Skippy where flow was changed. Data has never been a friend to the Skippy filter.

A bit of common sense...bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite are very small. To put it into a context that might be easier to understand to a bacteria a single drop of water would seem like a body of water 1/10 mile across to us. We'd call that a small lake. And bacteria can't reach out and grab ammonia, O2, carbon, etc. These things have to actually bang into them. So you can kind of see that if a cheeseburger floated several miles away from you it would do you no good no matter how slowly it moved.

Are they loud?
Very. Even people who love their Koi more than their kids seem to dislike the noise level. Some people place the Showers inside a building. The flow can be turned down but then they would really be a Trickle Tower imo.

I think I want subtle dripping not rushing water. I guess I could damper the sound by enclosing the Bakki in a chamber like some people do.
Can still be very loud unless maybe inside an insulated building.

So with the Bakki idea the top half of the tower would be an enclosed bakki funneling into a submerged portion (sounds like a downflow skippy to me) also filled with media that then exits to create river flow BD.
Skippy is a specific filter design. A component of Skippy is static submerged media. We used to just say submerged media, but since moving bed filters came along the static really has to be added. So it would be more accurate to say "static submerged media" than "Skippy".

Are Bakkis or Skippys easier to make?
I'd say probably about the same if you're talking about say a small 3 tray Bakki vs one Skippy. But comparing apples to apples for the same conversion rate you might need 30 Skippy filters. That would be a lot more work and expense.

Are Bakkis really that much better than a skippy for biological filtration?
You'd have to do that research and decide for yourself. As far as actual data there isn't a ton mainly because few people have studied the Skippy. It's kind of like when cars were first invented people studied the differences between cars and horses. But at some point there really wasn't any point of further study. There is a fair amount of info on Trickle Towers and Bakki because they're used in fish farming.

As far as mechanical filtration goes I was thinking of a prefilter from Russell water gardens http://www.russellwa.../Pond-Sieve.php expensive but I like the ease of cleaning and not needing to replace media.
Keep in mind this is not a sieve in any way shape or form. It is called a sieve only to sell product. They're trying to cash in on sieves being excellent filters and are today's state of the art pre-filter. It's a screen pot like is found on swimming pool pumps and many external pond pumps. Fine if that's what you want. I'm not fan because of clogging issues and what the results are of that.

I get that good mechanical filtration is a must for good bio filtration so I want to make it easy to clean out.
That's kind of another myth. Good mechanical filtration can make static submerged media work a little longer maybe. But Bakki and Trickle Tower are kind of self cleaning so no pre-filter is strictly needed. However some pre-filtering can keep the first tray in a Bakki from clogging. Pre-filtering does have several other benefits however.

I like the Oase screenmatics but they are so expensive (and probably overkill for this size pond)
And way, way over complex for no gain.
 
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Thanks again WB...

With a purchased filter, it will say on the box for ponds up to 5000 gallons for example... I read that to mean with an average fish load, it is only really good to 2500 gallons, if it were the sole source of filtration... THAT is the starting point in my mind. If I want even more fish, I MAY need to increase filtration in one form or another (another filter or maybe some plants)... and here is where ya play watch and see, and make adjustments as needed.

I have also paid attention to koiguy's set up with his skippy, and for a skippy, I know I can use his "working" arrangement as a guide/estimate of where to start. It gets me into the ball park, although there are variables that I havent yet asked, such as what type of filter media he is using. Some materials may be better hosts/homes for those helpful bacterias, over other materials...

Now with the trickle tower, I get that some tweeking to size may be needed, but there has to be some type of basic guidelines to get into the ball park. Let's say for an example a bathroom waste can may not be a good place to start with our outside ponds combined water volume of 9,000 gallons. I'm not even sure a bathroom waste can would be large enough for our 600 gallon plant/baby pond in the basement, which has a fair amount of plants to help it. The 750 in the basement has no plants to help, and a high fish load (IMO) that is only going to increase as they grow.

I need simple formulas, not those that need a chemist to work out;-)
 
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Hi everyone,
I am planning on putting a pond in my backyard and after doing some research I have a few questions being new to the modern pond world. So prepare to be bombarded with sketches, pictures and questions!
Goals and Site considerations
  • I want to put a pond in my tiny! backyard. The area is appx. 14' x 6' and I would like to leave some room around the edges for plants. So the pond could be a rectangle with vertical sides measuring 12' x 3.5' x 3-4' deep which is around 950 - 1000 gallons.View attachment 50322
  • Obviously the size of the space limits me from putting an external bio-filter area and water features so I was hoping to do some sort of hybrid. I'd like 2 trickling pillar fountains w/ plants in the top at either end of the pool.View attachment 50321 At 18" square rising 2-3 ft from the water they would each be about 100 gallons. I have some thoughts/questions below about making these skippy style filters.
  • I want to put 3-5 butterfly koi in the pond, from my understanding koi require: min 1000 gal, a bottom drain, a prefilter to remove solid wastes, a heater for winter weather, a large bio filter, 4'+ depth. I realize my pond would be on the shallow side but I am pretty urban and could easily net the top to protect from predators.
On to questions
  1. My main confusion is the size of pump I would require if I make the columns skippy filters. Each would be 100 gal (200 gal filtration total). If the pump is turning over the water 12x per day - then 250 gal/hr would be going through each filter with a retention time of 24 min. That is pushing 4-5 gal out the top of each planter (is that a trickle? I don't really have a concept of how it would look). Assuming each pillar is half submerged the pump would be holding 100 gal of water above the surface of the pond. How does that affect the head of the pump and therefore the size of pump I require?View attachment 50323
  2. With 200 gallons of skippy filters for a 1000 gal pond am I totally overdoing the amount of filtration I need? I thought maybe another way to make the columns filter was to have the submerged part act as a skippy filter and the above water part act as a trickle filter. The water would then exit the column at surface level. Pros? Cons? And what size pump would I need if this is the better option?View attachment 50324
  3. I was a little worried since there is no waterfall about there being enough dissolved oxygen in the water for healthy fish and aerobic bacteria. I thought it would be a good idea to install airstones in the bottom of each column. Thoughts on whether this is a good idea?
  4. Are 2” pipes a good size for the system?
  5. Is my bottom drain going to have enough flow to move the solid waste to the pre-filter?
  6. The pre-filter needs to sit at the same height as the surface level in the pond, correct?
  7. Am I missing anything important?
Sorry if these are lots of repeat questions from other threads and thanks for all the help!
Jessica


Jessica Like you we are stuck for space and so we built a free standing pond and created exra space by building a wall then back filling it creating the space needed to walk around it .
The pond iself is 1,000 gallons 4ft deep 7 ft across and 21 ft in circumference .
It has a bottom drain with a spindrifter we have a vortex two filters with Jap Matting and other stuff in it ( zeolite in one and Lithaqua in the other) with a barrel filter as the bio filter.
Maintenance is weekly cleaning the vortex and replacing 30% during a water change .
So what we are saying is a bit of careful planning might be all you need for the filters to be put in place , ours being behind the pond and housed in a double glazed filter housing.

rgrds

Dave
 
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Starting at 2:50 minute in Andy Moo's take on filter size. He's talking about high fish loads so what he's saying on filter size isn't a fit for this discussion but his take on the concept of any filter saying it's for X gal pond is gold.
 
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alright so I'm leaning towards a small diy Bakki with a flow of 1500 gph for a 1000 gallon pond. The logic of how the bacteria reach the nutrients makes more sense to me than the skippy. It seems kind of like a rushing stream vs. an estuary, although not a perfect model since they system isn't contained, the moving water is usually clearer.

Waterbug, from your comments are you saying that I should skip a prefilter? I see now the one I posted is more of a remote debris basket. Hmm, the true sieves are so cool and have a nice big price tag to go along. Can you link a bottom drain and a skimmer into one sieve filter? I'm having difficulty visualizing how that would work.

Is it alright to keep the top container planted and have the Bakki under it (like a miniature bog on top?) I still like would like it to look similar to the dripping planter I posted in the start of the thread.

I will take a picture of my site tomorrow and post it in case anyone has any genius space saving ideas for it. All I've done so far is dig a little and plan and re-plan.

Thanks! Jessica
 
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Waterbug, from your comments are you saying that I should skip a prefilter?
Nope. I was saying these things aren't so cut and dry. For example, I had pre-filters clogging and burning out pumps. I then took a step back and asked myself "why was I using a pre-filter"? To protect the pump...which was burning out because of a clogged pre-filter. Pre-filters are great as long as they're cleaned when needed. But even if you clean it every day and at a clump of string algae breaks loose, clogs the filter, burns out the pump. If you're cleaning a filter everyday your risk is low, but I like as bullet proof as possible.

I'm not a fan of the pot type strainers because they're not as easy to clean because the pump has to be turned off, top unscrewed, etc. Doesn't sound too bad but after you do it about 100 times it becomes less and less fun.

So what I'm saying is designing a pond is a process. The type of pre-filter, skimmer, etc., will become more and more clear as you firm up other things. Start with big features and then work down. Pond size and shape is choice one. Then fish load and kind of pond like Koi vs Water Garden. That defines whether you need a BD and the number and placement and then that defines number of TPRs. That decision picks the pipe size. That decides the minimum pump size....on and on.

Along the way you learn how these things work and can tweak your design to get the pond you want. For example, you've already looked at your 2-5 Koi load and decided you'd be OK backing that number down if needed. Someone else might keep the fish load and change the pond. All about thinking about what you really want. The more thought and research you put in now just means getting a pond closer to what you'd be happier with.

Is it alright to keep the top container planted and have the Bakki under it (like a miniature bog on top?) I still like would like it to look similar to the dripping planter I posted in the start of the thread.
It's fine, but I don't think we'd be talking about a Bakki Shower any more. That's a very specific type of filter. I would call it a Trickle Tower as that's a more general name. For example a Bakki is a type of Trickle Tower, like a Camry is a type of car. Proper terms reduce confusion and wasted time.

The plants wouldn't do a lot filter wise, but could look very nice. So I think it would be cool.
 

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