Stopping the Water


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New to the form and started my second deep dive into my waterfall leek. We purchased this home five years ago and it had a nice pond feature. At closing, we found out that there was a waterfall but, it had issues.

Within the first year, I tore it down and added some liner, to cover the gaping gap and reduce the leakage. I also used some expanding bombcan foam to do some sealing. It worked better but, the water level still dropped about a 1/2” an hour.

Earlier this summer, I did a big upgrade on the pump and supply line and it made a great improvement to the appearance.

Over the last holiday weekend, I did a deep dive and got back to core. I’m currently ready to start the fix.

The issue is, the pond liner is only back to the 6”-8” top face and nothing stoops the water from falls going behind it.

Solutions in mind: a small concrete beed 2”x2” from the last vertical and over the liner edge. Concrete the open soil and add burgundy glass chunks over the visible vertical patch. Patch seams and cracks with quick Crete hydraulic cement. Once set add two coats of pond shield epoxy paint.

Pictures added for reference. The cliff is 18’ tall and the pond is roughly 600 gallons. New pump is 2700 gpm though 1-1/4” hose.
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So if I understand correctly this is water running down the face of these large boulders with no liner underneath? If that’s the case I fear you’re fighting a losing battle.
 
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So if I understand correctly this is water running down the face of these large boulders with no liner underneath? If that’s the case I fear you’re fighting a losing battle.
The upper portion is man made and looks to be sealed well however; there is no liner at the base and the water goes behind the liner.

My intention is to seal that base to the liner.
 
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This is the most difficult challenge for ponds / pond less waterfalls. the amount of fissures in the rock and the type of rock says its a ever ending battle . Problem number one is the fissures that will constantly be moving and being forced open by mother nature. Fiberglass and coating the final layer of fiberglass with small gravel and sand is probably the only way to make that work but take our word for it it's a challenge
 
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addy1

water gardener / gold fish and shubunkins
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Welcome to the forum!

Beautiful water fall!
 
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This is the most difficult challenge for ponds / pond less waterfalls. the amount of fissures in the rock and the type of rock says its a ever ending battle . Problem number one is the fissures that will constantly be moving and being forced open by mother nature. Fiberglass and coating the final layer of fiberglass with small gravel and sand is probably the only way to make that work but take our word for it it's a challenge
I do understand the very fine line between success and failure on this one. It’s just a beautiful fetcher that I have a big commitment to make better. I can live with a little watered loss but, what I had was to much.

The “Pond Shield” has many good reviews. I will be using that in all areas of concern and hope it works out.
 
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Not the material I'd use .if your serious about this and willing to put in the time and money I'd start with a pressure washer with at least 4 to 5000 psi and removed everything loose.from where the water will fall.
Once that's done then I would stuff backer rod into all the wider and deeper spaces. Then fill that with a butyl caulking. Much the same as pool companies. Once that is complete you can then think about a epoxy paint . But again that in my eyes is more for a smooth uniform surface. I myself would lean toward a clear fiberglass and as it is still tacky I'd throw sand pebbles and dust at it to make it look like rock.
Or I'd look into a sipro mortar product one that is fortified with resin shavings or fiberglass to keep it from cracking. Then at the bottom I'd have to cut a slot into the rock so I could tuck in the rubber shim it in spots so it doesn't move and then do the same as above and caulk it.
 
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Not the material I'd use .if your serious about this and willing to put in the time and money I'd start with a pressure washer with at least 4 to 5000 psi and removed everything loose.from where the water will fall.
Once that's done then I would stuff backer rod into all the wider and deeper spaces. Then fill that with a butyl caulking. Much the same as pool companies. Once that is complete you can then think about a epoxy paint . But again that in my eyes is more for a smooth uniform surface. I myself would lean toward a clear fiberglass and as it is still tacky I'd throw sand pebbles and dust at it to make it look like rock.
Or I'd look into a sipro mortar product one that is fortified with resin shavings or fiberglass to keep it from cracking. Then at the bottom I'd have to cut a slot into the rock so I could tuck in the rubber shim it in spots so it doesn't move and then do the same as above and caulk it.
I do understand what you’re saying. We’ve lived here for five years and I now know the cliff structure. On a good amount of the cliff, the face is very porous and weeps significantly after a heavy rain. That’s not this area. The two boulders on the sides of the small cavern are solid rock and do not weep.

I do have that dirt line between the stages of rock that I do need to address. I did look at Silpro and it looks like a workable product but, I failed to find a distributor here in Northern Alabama. I do believe the Quikcrete hydraulic water-stopping cement has similar qualities and is available at the big box home improvement stores.

As for the power washing; it’s been hit with my 2700 psi unit and that’s as far as I care to go, sparing the possible destruction with greater psi.

Thanks
 
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Quikcrete hydraulic water-stopping cement
this is a good product but has next to no reinforcement. the hydraulic usually has a additive to make it stronger more crack resistant but is a terrible product as far as elasticity is concerned. i do not know how many products silpro makes but i would bet its damn close to a 100 . if theres a product in the concrete or mortar family that would solve a problem they will have it. even in Alabama
 
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this is a good product but has next to no reinforcement. the hydraulic usually has a additive to make it stronger more crack resistant but is a terrible product as far as elasticity is concerned. i do not know how many products silpro makes but i would bet its damn close to a 100 . if theres a product in the concrete or mortar family that would solve a problem they will have it. even in Alabama
I called Silpro and found a distributer on the other side of the city. When I called, they said, they only had one in a morter form @ $70ish a bag. I have that one large open area to cover and would rather a cement than a motor.

Never the less, I will take a drive and see exactly what it is and if they may have other’s within the Silpro product line.
 
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take a photo of what your trying to do and dont forget backer rod show the store salesman
 
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take a photo of what your trying to do and dont forget backer rod show the store salesman
Well, that didn’t work! Nothing is stock and the guy behind the counter was clueless. Said, he knew nothing about the product “ I just sell the stuff”!

Due to your recommendation, I may call the manufacture customer service again and see what they recommend and order it through said dealer. If they trow a crazy shipping fee at me I’ll move on.
 

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