Trickle Tower defined

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Someday hopefully I will look up links to support the claims below and write up a web page. But forums don't require footnotes and are rarely used so I'll just post away. Almost everything I know about TT I learned from others.

History I think is important. Pond keeping, filters, etc., have a long history. It evolves. If you only look at one small slice of time you may miss why one filter is looked at a certain way. Or worst, that just because a filter is considered a great filter today it will be tomorrow. I'll only post a tiny bit of the TT history.

My understanding of where the TT concept came from is Japan and that it was based on streams. There was a belief that streams had a positive impact on water quality. I don't know if the TT concept actually came from Japan or the stream connection was made after someone built a TT but it fits. Rushing crashing streams have been known to improve water quality at least in some ways. It goes so far back it's almost human instinct to think drinking from a rushing stream is better water than calmer water.

Many years ago, before TT and UV filters, Greg Bickel posted in a pond forum about how his 2 new ponds were very green. As part of the construction process he then constructed a stream between the two ponds. A short time later his ponds suddenly cleared. He made some posts that discussed why this might be. It's the first time I ever read anything about streams improving water quality in ponds. Greg Bickel was and is a very serious pond keeper and so his posts stood out.

A while after that, maybe years, I started reading posts by Dr Roddy Conrad and his TT. I think Roddy is a chemist if I remember, and he posted a lot of data. I'm guessing this was 15 years ago. Roddy was demonized in forums by forum gurus who considered the Skippy filter to be the best filter that could ever be created. It was forum heresy to suggest otherwise. Such wars are common in serious forums. Many forums were created because of such schisms. Forum moderators would censor and ban members for daring to post heresy and so members had no choice to go off and start there own forum. Interestingly in the years that followed the very same people who had demonized Roddy started to promote TT as if they invented the concept. Human nature is not pretty.

Any rate, Roddy posted lots of data about seeing amazing ammonia conversion, about 30 times as much as the current state of the art bio filter at that time, static (not moving) submerged media. In those days everything was about surface area. More surface area = more ammonia conversion. Nearly 100% of discussion was about increasing surface area. People had formulas saying X sq in of surface area = Y ammonia conversion. At the beginning even Roddy, I think, was using lava rock in his TT and saying surface area was the key. But over time it started to become obvious that surface area really wasn't very important at all. People were seeing much different ammonia conversion rates with different filters and surface area just didn't seem to be a deciding factor. Obviously surface area is a factor, but not a very important factor. Something else was going on.

Side bar: One thing I think we all missed at the time was that people with TT reported clearer water. This was before UVs so green water was a huge issue. The credit was given to lower nutrients. The concept that algae could be starved to death was still widely believed. At the same time people were reporting their TT were covered in string algae. These were all Koi ponds that had been string algae free because the Koi ate it and the ponds were kept very clean. Today I think the clear water was related to the string algae, but that's another story.

What was blowing people's minds was that a TT could be 30 times better at ammonia conversion than static submerged media. The surface area of both types of filters were basically the same.

The idea had been more surface area = more bacteria = more ammonia conversion.

The data showed increasing surface did not always increase ammonia conversion. Must be something else. The other thing TT users were reporting was KH levels dropping, a lot. Most were adding baking soda to support KH. That lead to a new kind of formula. They knew ammonia and KH were being consumed and they knew what these bacteria ate, basically ammonia, KH (carbon) and oxygen. Oxygen is a big component in conversion. They also knew you got max O2 into water at the boundary of air and water (the surface). That lead to the theory that TT were so good at ammonia conversion was an increase in O2.

Koi enthusiasts have one thing in common, a desire to own more Koi. When people started seeing other people using TTs being able to keep more Koi they just couldn't help themselves and had to leave dogma behind. No problem, they just started new dogma telling everyone TT were the best possible filter there could ever be. People suggesting moving bed and Shower filters met with the same demonizing from basically the same people. History repeats itself.

There have been many studies related to bacteria converting ammonia. It's important to many areas beyond ponds. One study, I think in France, counted the types of bacteria found on media in conditions like a TT, moving, thin, water. They found 90% of the bacteria on the media was heterotroph, what we call "bad bacteria". Only 10% were ammonia converting kinds. This is on "clean" media in a lab.

Looking at bacteria bio film...
Biofilm2.jpg

The dark grey at the bottom is the media surface. The lighter grey "fans" is the bio film gel produced by the bacteria and the black dots are the bacteria. Arrow is water movement.

It doesn't take long to see that water movement thru these skyscrapers of bacteria is important. When dirt starts to clog these fans the black dots are cut off from ammonia, carbon and O2. Heterotroph (bad) type bacteria would grow in those clogged areas because it can live in low O2 and the stuff doing the clogging is mostly organic which it feeds on. Going by the population census of 90% heterotroph it's reasonable to guess 90% of "clean, washed" media is still 90% clogged with dirt (dead bacteria, old bio film, etc.)

Translate this to a pond environment, a tremendously more dirty environment, and it's reasonable to say the film in even a moving bed contains less than 10% ammonia converting bacteria compared to heterotroph. Static submerged media must be way less, almost none. And that is proven by the many studies, both formal and informal, that demonstrate orders of magnitude better ammonia conversion rates for non-static media. Increased water movement = increased conversion.

It also shows how few ammonia converting animals are actually needed. Submerged media filters may be converting ammonia only on the surfaces of pipes and near inlets and out flows. That would fit the 30x conversion rate seen. About 1/30th of a Skippy could be have fast moving water keeping media clean.I've never read of anyone testing this but it would be interesting to see how a Skippy performed with and without media.

The concept of the TT was a way to compress a stream into a smaller space, important in Japan, fish farmers, etc. Once people understood why a TT was more efficient they developed moving bed and Shower filters. Today Shower filters are considered the best bio filter as measured by conversion rate. And once again we do not completely understand how they work. Some people never measure nitrites which means the ammonia is going some place else. And some people measure reduction of nitrates which I haven't even heard any good theories to explain that result. People also haven't been able so far to reproduce results like nitrate reduction. So far it seems it's the crashing water, it must be violent. Could be as simple as keeping the bio film even cleaner. Someday we'll know.

To me the definition of a Trickle Tower is media that is not submerged and has water running over it. That's it. Some people over the years have said it has to be a certain size, shape, or media, be shaded, have extra air holes....you name it. But none of those configurations were ever shown to be clearly better (until Showers). A stream could be considered a TT. A small pile of rocks with water running over it is a TT. Beyond that we would be talking about increasing conversion rates. Different size rocks, amount of water, size of the pile, etc., would effect conversion rate. But we'd be talking about something that is only 20 times better than submerged or 35 times. Bottom line the worst TT is many times better at conversion than static submerged media.

The Shower filter, which is basically several TTs stack on top of each other, are better conversion than TT. Current wisdom says a Shower increases O2, but this is based solely on what we learned from TT. In TTs increased O2 increased conversion. Therefore Showers' increase conversion must be due to increased O2. Narrow thinking and history repeating. Data coming from Showers doesn't seem to be pointing to O2. Ot could be more O2 is doing something other than feeding bacteria. Maybe bacteria aren't the primary converters. Nothing definitive yet.

To me a filter is a tool. It isn't my child that I have to defend at all cost. As long as I let data show me attributes I'm free to pick whatever filter system that's right for the pond owner's goals. Ammonia conversion is only one factor.

I picked the story of Trickle Towers only to show one element of pond keeping. These things didn't just appear out of the blue the moment you first read about them. There's a history. There have been lots of debate, some even constructive. Opinions can be whatever a person likes. Data can proven or disproven. When you buy a car which should you care more about what your neighbor says, that his car runs on water and gets 10000 mpg? Or data from actual tests? Why should ponds be any different?

Most ponds I've ever run had no constructed bio filter of any kind. But still nice to know what tools are available.
 

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Thanks for your wonderful post! Lots of food for thought.
- Skippys. I have read elsewhere that the good bacteria is very efficient in conversion and there aren't a lot of them. But I have to believe that Skippys work, not in the least because of negative evidence. And the negative evidence is when people cleaned their Skippys, they got an algae bloom. And enough people have said it for me to believe it.
- I've refused to build a free standing vertical TT filter so far because I don't think I can build a good enough one easily. The problem is maintaining even water flow with adequate O2. Too much effort when I could build...
- Horizontal ones. The simplest of which was just putting a lot of pebbles and stones onto my waterfall. The additional benefit of that was they grew string algae and I just plucked them off the rocks, removing organics from the pond environment.
- My current best filter which I'm running now is a combo shower moving bed filter. I have no idea why people don't build these. It's just a shower filter made of planters where the media are not rocks but cut up straws and K2. It combines the O2 rich environment with moving media.

(Just for you WB. I've long been interested in slow sand filters. Those things which save-the-world NGOs are building in 3rd world countries and green states are using to purify their drinking water. Well, I thought, if you can drink from that (almost), certainly it will be good for the fish. But the problem is the size and flow rate for a pond. But the only important element in it is the Schmutzdecke. So what if I could dispense with the rest of the filter and just build a compact filter with a large Schmutzdecke vs. size ratio? The flow rate doesn't have to be and won't be high. Won't be necessary as long as it produces "clean" water. I built two prototypes and tested them. Unfortunately, I live in WA state where there wasn't enough warm weather to try it long enough.

In the same vein, for people in hot weather such as AZ, NV or CA, how about building a simple distillation filter? Water would flow into the "filter". A transparent dome would collect filtered water and send it back to the pond with the residue to remain in the pan to be disposed of every few weeks. Not very efficient, but certainly an outside the box idea to clean some of the water and remove some organics and waste products.)

Edit: Just doing some more reading on slow sand filters and just realized that all the sand and gravel filters that people are building are also known as rapid sand filters in the waste water treatment world. Exactly the same thing.
 
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Wow! Lots of technical information here. Bit over my head. I am in the process of collecting those pepsi trays that I've seen used on the you tube video. I opted for the Coke trays, as they are black. I'm going to hide them behind some banana and bushy palm trees around my pond. My neighbor will see them, but I have to look at his ugly dog house ....


What size pump do you think I need to get the water to this tower/shower filter? I have a 2500 gph running in the pond now (pond is about 2200g). I do want to buy an additional pump anyways, as I want to be sure I have a back up.

The lava rock is $13 per bag here. So I was thinking about just using another type of local rock ...... any thoughts on that? Is there a reason lava rock is used so widely in ponding as opposed to other rocks? If I need to I will buy them, but my cheap filter suddenly isn't so cheap.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Priscilla
 

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So I was thinking about just using another type of local rock ...... any thoughts on that? Is there a reason lava rock is used so widely in ponding as opposed to other rocks? If I need to I will buy them, but my cheap filter suddenly isn't so cheap.
I'm sure you can use any old rock/stones. The reason why they choose lava rock is because it has a lot of small cavities in it, but I'm sure that after a while all the holes will be filled up with debris anyway.

BTW, while thinking about the free standing TT's, I think they can be also done biologically so that the entire outside surface is covered with vegetation such as moss or algae. That will act as a bio scrubber and good bacteria will still grow on the surface of the plants for bacteria conversion.
 
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Someday hopefully I will look up links to support the claims below and write up a web page. But forums don't require footnotes and are rarely used so I'll just post away. Almost everything I know about TT I learned from others.

History I think is important. Pond keeping, filters, etc., have a long history. It evolves. If you only look at one small slice of time you may miss why one filter is looked at a certain way. Or worst, that just because a filter is considered a great filter today it will be tomorrow. I'll only post a tiny bit of the TT history.

My understanding of where the TT concept came from is Japan and that it was based on streams. There was a belief that streams had a positive impact on water quality. I don't know if the TT concept actually came from Japan or the stream connection was made after someone built a TT but it fits. Rushing crashing streams have been known to improve water quality at least in some ways. It goes so far back it's almost human instinct to think drinking from a rushing stream is better water than calmer water.

Many years ago, before TT and UV filters, Greg Bickel posted in a pond forum about how his 2 new ponds were very green. As part of the construction process he then constructed a stream between the two ponds. A short time later his ponds suddenly cleared. He made some posts that discussed why this might be. It's the first time I ever read anything about streams improving water quality in ponds. Greg Bickel was and is a very serious pond keeper and so his posts stood out.

A while after that, maybe years, I started reading posts by Dr Roddy Conrad and his TT. I think Roddy is a chemist if I remember, and he posted a lot of data. I'm guessing this was 15 years ago. Roddy was demonized in forums by forum gurus who considered the Skippy filter to be the best filter that could ever be created. It was forum heresy to suggest otherwise. Such wars are common in serious forums. Many forums were created because of such schisms. Forum moderators would censor and ban members for daring to post heresy and so members had no choice to go off and start there own forum. Interestingly in the years that followed the very same people who had demonized Roddy started to promote TT as if they invented the concept. Human nature is not pretty.

Any rate, Roddy posted lots of data about seeing amazing ammonia conversion, about 30 times as much as the current state of the art bio filter at that time, static (not moving) submerged media. In those days everything was about surface area. More surface area = more ammonia conversion. Nearly 100% of discussion was about increasing surface area. People had formulas saying X sq in of surface area = Y ammonia conversion. At the beginning even Roddy, I think, was using lava rock in his TT and saying surface area was the key. But over time it started to become obvious that surface area really wasn't very important at all. People were seeing much different ammonia conversion rates with different filters and surface area just didn't seem to be a deciding factor. Obviously surface area is a factor, but not a very important factor. Something else was going on.

Side bar: One thing I think we all missed at the time was that people with TT reported clearer water. This was before UVs so green water was a huge issue. The credit was given to lower nutrients. The concept that algae could be starved to death was still widely believed. At the same time people were reporting their TT were covered in string algae. These were all Koi ponds that had been string algae free because the Koi ate it and the ponds were kept very clean. Today I think the clear water was related to the string algae, but that's another story.

What was blowing people's minds was that a TT could be 30 times better at ammonia conversion than static submerged media. The surface area of both types of filters were basically the same.

The idea had been more surface area = more bacteria = more ammonia conversion.

The data showed increasing surface did not always increase ammonia conversion. Must be something else. The other thing TT users were reporting was KH levels dropping, a lot. Most were adding baking soda to support KH. That lead to a new kind of formula. They knew ammonia and KH were being consumed and they knew what these bacteria ate, basically ammonia, KH (carbon) and oxygen. Oxygen is a big component in conversion. They also knew you got max O2 into water at the boundary of air and water (the surface). That lead to the theory that TT were so good at ammonia conversion was an increase in O2.

Koi enthusiasts have one thing in common, a desire to own more Koi. When people started seeing other people using TTs being able to keep more Koi they just couldn't help themselves and had to leave dogma behind. No problem, they just started new dogma telling everyone TT were the best possible filter there could ever be. People suggesting moving bed and Shower filters met with the same demonizing from basically the same people. History repeats itself.

There have been many studies related to bacteria converting ammonia. It's important to many areas beyond ponds. One study, I think in France, counted the types of bacteria found on media in conditions like a TT, moving, thin, water. They found 90% of the bacteria on the media was heterotroph, what we call "bad bacteria". Only 10% were ammonia converting kinds. This is on "clean" media in a lab.

Looking at bacteria bio film...
Biofilm2.jpg

The dark grey at the bottom is the media surface. The lighter grey "fans" is the bio film gel produced by the bacteria and the black dots are the bacteria. Arrow is water movement.

It doesn't take long to see that water movement thru these skyscrapers of bacteria is important. When dirt starts to clog these fans the black dots are cut off from ammonia, carbon and O2. Heterotroph (bad) type bacteria would grow in those clogged areas because it can live in low O2 and the stuff doing the clogging is mostly organic which it feeds on. Going by the population census of 90% heterotroph it's reasonable to guess 90% of "clean, washed" media is still 90% clogged with dirt (dead bacteria, old bio film, etc.)

Translate this to a pond environment, a tremendously more dirty environment, and it's reasonable to say the film in even a moving bed contains less than 10% ammonia converting bacteria compared to heterotroph. Static submerged media must be way less, almost none. And that is proven by the many studies, both formal and informal, that demonstrate orders of magnitude better ammonia conversion rates for non-static media. Increased water movement = increased conversion.

It also shows how few ammonia converting animals are actually needed. Submerged media filters may be converting ammonia only on the surfaces of pipes and near inlets and out flows. That would fit the 30x conversion rate seen. About 1/30th of a Skippy could be have fast moving water keeping media clean.I've never read of anyone testing this but it would be interesting to see how a Skippy performed with and without media.

The concept of the TT was a way to compress a stream into a smaller space, important in Japan, fish farmers, etc. Once people understood why a TT was more efficient they developed moving bed and Shower filters. Today Shower filters are considered the best bio filter as measured by conversion rate. And once again we do not completely understand how they work. Some people never measure nitrites which means the ammonia is going some place else. And some people measure reduction of nitrates which I haven't even heard any good theories to explain that result. People also haven't been able so far to reproduce results like nitrate reduction. So far it seems it's the crashing water, it must be violent. Could be as simple as keeping the bio film even cleaner. Someday we'll know.

To me the definition of a Trickle Tower is media that is not submerged and has water running over it. That's it. Some people over the years have said it has to be a certain size, shape, or media, be shaded, have extra air holes....you name it. But none of those configurations were ever shown to be clearly better (until Showers). A stream could be considered a TT. A small pile of rocks with water running over it is a TT. Beyond that we would be talking about increasing conversion rates. Different size rocks, amount of water, size of the pile, etc., would effect conversion rate. But we'd be talking about something that is only 20 times better than submerged or 35 times. Bottom line the worst TT is many times better at conversion than static submerged media.

The Shower filter, which is basically several TTs stack on top of each other, are better conversion than TT. Current wisdom says a Shower increases O2, but this is based solely on what we learned from TT. In TTs increased O2 increased conversion. Therefore Showers' increase conversion must be due to increased O2. Narrow thinking and history repeating. Data coming from Showers doesn't seem to be pointing to O2. Ot could be more O2 is doing something other than feeding bacteria. Maybe bacteria aren't the primary converters. Nothing definitive yet.

To me a filter is a tool. It isn't my child that I have to defend at all cost. As long as I let data show me attributes I'm free to pick whatever filter system that's right for the pond owner's goals. Ammonia conversion is only one factor.

I picked the story of Trickle Towers only to show one element of pond keeping. These things didn't just appear out of the blue the moment you first read about them. There's a history. There have been lots of debate, some even constructive. Opinions can be whatever a person likes. Data can proven or disproven. When you buy a car which should you care more about what your neighbor says, that his car runs on water and gets 10000 mpg? Or data from actual tests? Why should ponds be any different?

Most ponds I've ever run had no constructed bio filter of any kind. But still nice to know what tools are available.
I really enjoy your post. The bottom line is people need to focus more on the theory and less attention to type.
 
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After reading all this interesting input on filtration. My 19,000 gal pond has been up and running for 11 yrs.. I never owned a test kit until last year. This year I will install a 4'x20' bog filter and a 4'x4'x10' shower filter in addition to my current filters. After everything is up and running I am going to isolate each filter 1 at a time and continue to test my water and see if I ever get a reading different than 0,0,0,8.4. Like someone recently posted I may not need a filter.
 

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After reading all this interesting input on filtration. My 19,000 gal pond has been up and running for 11 yrs.. I never owned a test kit until last year. This year I will install a 4'x20' bog filter and a 4'x4'x10' shower filter in addition to my current filters. After everything is up and running I am going to isolate each filter 1 at a time and continue to test my water and see if I ever get a reading different than 0,0,0,8.4. Like someone recently posted I may not need a filter.
Looking forward to seeing your results. Everything will have to be exactly the same, fish, food quantities, even feeding times I suppose.

What other filters do you have, what kind of plants and fish do you have?

What will your shower filter look like?
 
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Looking forward to seeing your results. Everything will have to be exactly the same, fish, food quantities, even feeding times I suppose.

What other filters do you have, what kind of plants and fish do you have?

What will your shower filter look like?
I do not have a feeding schedule I just leave a container of food on the bridge because I always have kids coming by to see the fish and of course they have to feed them. Everything on my pond is DIY filters from lava rock in milk crates in the small ponds that feed 2 of the waterfalls. The other waterfall and a16' stream has a 175 gal tank in the ground with lava rock and ribbon media in a laundry bag. This tank serves as a skimmer and does have a mechanical filter. This tank supplies water for 2 external pumps rated at 5760 gph each. These pumps supply water to a small pond that feeds the stream and a waterfall, this pond is about 3' deep and filled with pea gravel, lava rock and water iris on top bare roots. All 3 of my pump are external with a leaf basket on each. I also have water iris in the big pond as well as water lilies and arrow head plants, horsetail reed and some other pond plants. All the plants in my pond are bare root. I also have a 4'x20' bog filter the bog filter and the shower are fed by the 3rd external pump. I also have a floating island 3'x5' planted with numerous plants some are water plants and some are not. My shower will have 4 level top level will be mechanical filtration and lava rock the next level down will be filled with lava rock and covered with quilt batting. The 3rd level will be the same as the second. The final level will be used to polish the water as it exits the shower. I will be able to slide each level out for maintenance purposes. My pump will be placed inside the shower enclosure that will be 4'x4'x10'. Currently my pond has 10 Koi ranging from 4" to 30" and 40 or 50 Shubunkin. I lost 27 Koi last summer from an internal parasite . My stupidity because I bought 24 Koi and did not quarantine. I will be setting up a tank with dual purpose.
 
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But I have to believe that Skippys work, not in the least because of negative evidence.
I think the key is in the definition of "work".

Let's throw out the 2 end cases. Fish farmer with 1 lb of fish / gal of water. They'd need 500 Skippys so lets forget them. The backyard keeper with 10 goldfish in 1000 gal pond has no use for a Skippy bio wise. They'd never measure ammonia, Skippy or not. The interesting case is a kind of average backyard stocking level that is producing more ammonia than the pond by itself could handle.

Skippy certainly will convert ammonia and certainly could meet the needs of many backyard ponds...for some time period.

A Skippy doesn't have a lot of bandwidth. It's starting out with limited O2 disadvantage. That's no problem if it still handles the ammonia level. The problem is as time passes ammonia conversion drops due to water being blocked from getting to dust covered bacteria. Owner knows to clean the Skippy when they start measuring ammonia. For some people an ammonia spike once in a while is no big deal. For others it's a big deal. Depends on the person.

The moving bed and TT type filters start out with the O2 advantage but as ammonia levels increase with time these filters can increase their conversion rate because chances are ammonia was their limiting factor. The already had plenty of O2 and the bio film was being kept clean so food was flowing to the bacteria. Assuming plenty of carbon the little animals are only limited by ammonia.

That 30x efficiency thing requires lots of ammonia to be true. A single Skippy, clean or dirty, compared to a monster Shower system will perform exactly the same if there is no ammonia in the system. It's only as ammonia production increases that these filters become 5x, 10x, 20x, 30x more efficient.

The other side of the coin is Skippy's conversion rate depends more on how often it is cleaned. For example a clean Skippy can be 30x, 100x more efficient than a dirty Skippy.

So this is all very relative.

I sure don't mean to pick on Skippy. Where static submerged media filters really fell out of favor is with bead filters. They replaced Skippy in many ponds and were considered the end all filter in their day because they could be cleaned easily. They were expensive to buy and run but considered state of the art. The problem was this cycle of ammonia and cleaning. People were having to clean them weekly and even daily to try and keep down the ammonia spikes. Just always chasing your tail.

Today you hardly hear about bead filters. They were being used as mechanical filters but even that is going away because of sieves imo.

A Skippy can keep fish alive. It was thee bio filter for several years.It just doesn't have the bandwidth of later filters. When given the choice many people prefer a bio filter that scales up with increasing ammonia production rather than a filter that allows ammonia spikes. Plus not many people enjoy cleaning filters, even if only once a year.

And the negative evidence is when people cleaned their Skippys, they got an algae bloom. And enough people have said it for me to believe it.
I've read this too, but not enough to make me curious.The connection of Skippy and green water was never documented very well imo. Skippy owners in general didn't post a lot of data. There was a lot of pretty wild claims about both it being the best or worst depending on the poster's agenda imo. Would be interesting to test.

- I've refused to build a free standing vertical TT filter so far because I don't think I can build a good enough one easily. The problem is maintaining even water flow with adequate O2. Too much effort when I could build...
I don't understand this. If you flow water over a vertical pile of rocks nature takes care of providing high O2. You don't even get a choice. Pile of rocks, water output at/near the top...done. There are tons of ways to pile the rocks, different rocks, different water flow, different heights, etc. And maybe one configuration is slightly more efficient than another, but in all cases we're talking about a fundamentally different performance compared to static submerged media. I'm not sure where you're hearing there is something complex about these.

- My current best filter which I'm running now is a combo shower moving bed filter. I have no idea why people don't build these. It's just a shower filter made of planters where the media are not rocks but cut up straws and K2. It combines the O2 rich environment with moving media.
These certainly can be the most efficient bio filters, and are pretty cheap and easy to make.

For the moving bed I think the turn off is having to buy the media and the water flow/container size does have to be noodled out. Most people don't even know their pump's GPH. There's the issue of hiding the thing. Difficult for many ponds. If this was their only option people certainly could figure it out, but why not choose an easier option that works just as well?

Showers are easy enough, but relatively speaking much more complex. Plus they require very high flow, crashing water (I'm talking about an actual Shower, not just a stack of trays with a little water flow) The noise of a shower is way more than many people will endure. Hiding them is also difficult.

Buying a strawberry pot from any garden center and tossing in some stones for a TT is pretty darn easy for most people and it's instantly a visual asset to pond. They can read about it and an hour or two later be done. For efficiency, pound for pound, it's right up there with moving bed and showers.

I've long been interested in slow sand filters. Those things which save-the-world NGOs are building in 3rd world countries and green states are using to purify their drinking water. Well, I thought, if you can drink from that (almost), certainly it will be good for the fish. But the problem is the size and flow rate for a pond. But the only important element in it is the Schmutzdecke. So what if I could dispense with the rest of the filter and just build a compact filter with a large Schmutzdecke vs. size ratio? The flow rate doesn't have to be and won't be high. Won't be necessary as long as it produces "clean" water. I built two prototypes and tested them. Unfortunately, I live in WA state where there wasn't enough warm weather to try it long enough.
I read of aquarists using a similar type deal. They keep an inch or two of sand in the bottom of the tank and let a bio layer form. I they call it bio sand, live sand or something.

If you could get the Schmutzdecke flow rate you'd be golden. For say a 5000 gal pond to get a 10% water change per day you'd only need a 1.5' to 3' square filter. I think the rub would come in the form of waste water. Basically the filter would always have some depth of water in it and clean water would come out the bottom. So the water in the top would become dirtier and dirtier and have to be dumped. My biggest worried is pond water would overload the bio layer pretty fast with muck.

I run a fabric filter that mechanically removes suspended algae colonies and it gets clogged to the point of not allowing any water to pass. I assume the same thing would happen with a Schmutzdecke.

I think Schmutzdecke is more about removing bacteria. The cleaner the water going in the longer the filter works before needing maintenance.

The question is what are you trying to filter out? If it's bacteria a Schmutzdecke is an option. UV is another. If it's particles for clearer water I think most people use a coarser sand, like in a Sand & Gravel filter or sand filters used in water treatment plants.

On the other hand even if you only got a drop an hour the coolness factor would be very high.

In the same vein, for people in hot weather such as AZ, NV or CA, how about building a simple distillation filter? Water would flow into the "filter". A transparent dome would collect filtered water and send it back to the pond with the residue to remain in the pan to be disposed of every few weeks. Not very efficient, but certainly an outside the box idea to clean some of the water and remove some organics and waste products.)
So there would be a fair amount of waste water that would have to be replaced by water from the city or well? Why not just use that water?

Again, coolness factor would be high.

Here in AZ water temp is a concern. I assume the temp of the distilled water would be high. Even at night we're above 100F in summer. But in cooler climate you could add a parabolic mirror and boil water to distill...and you could use the stream to drive a pump. That would be pretty cool.

The world would be so much more interesting for DIYers if electric and clean water wasn't already so darn cheap already.

Edit: Just doing some more reading on slow sand filters and just realized that all the sand and gravel filters that people are building are also known as rapid sand filters in the waste water treatment world. Exactly the same thing.
Wish I'd read this before posting the above. I would say a slow sand and coarse sand filter are exactly the same thing. Slow sand is mainly a bio solution for removing or killing (not sure which) harmful bacteria. The sand just provides a home for the critters. The coarse sand filters are mainly mechanical.
 
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So if I'm understanding right many, if not most, garden ponds don't even need a boi filter - right? I mean if you're testing zero ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, why build a bio filter at all? Aside from the DIY fun aspect.

Or am I missing something?
 
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You're not missing anything. Impossible to get ammonia below 0. This is of course is only for bio filtering, ammonia and nitrite conversion.

Nitrates have to be dealt with other ways like water changes Most pond owners don't have to be concerned with nitrates. Some people are concern about high nitrates levels but these concerns don't make a lot of sense to me. When nitrate level gets really high bacteria that convert nitrites do slow down so it can lead to a nitrite problem, but pretty rare.

Beyond that different DIY type filters have many benefits that people promote. There is no end to these claims, but very little data and lots of people saying they don't see these results. For example if someone builds filter X and their fish spawn the next day they will post claims the filter makes water so good fish will spawn. How much stock a person wants to put into these claims is their own choice.

There is also the concept some people have that they add unneeded filters as future insurance. No big harm of course. But the bottom line is still the same. You still have to test water to know what's needed. True whether you have no bio filter or 10. So I don't see the benefit myself, but it seems to give some people piece of mind.

Whenever I've built a pond for someone I almost always add a bio filter, even if just a waterfall. You know someone is going to see the pond and say "OMG, no bio filter! This builder doesn't know anything about ponds". My private pond in San Jose had no bio filter and the new owners hired a "pond professional" who said "OMG, no bio filter!". Charged them hundreds of dollars to "fix" the pond with a piece of crap filter that leaked. They also moved the pump from the skimmer to the bottom of the pond to "move toxic water" even though the the water return was at the bottom of the pond so there was circulation. One night the filter fell apart, or a raccoon took it apart, and the pump at the bottom of the pond emptied the pond in a few hours and kill all the fish. So adding an unneeded bio filter can be a risk, especially if done by a "pond professional".
 

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