Bog construction question


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anyone used perforated hose? the type of thing they use on land drains, or french drains as they are known over here? The flow is meant to go in the opposite direction to a bog filter, but seems it might work
 
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mrsclem

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The flexible version would be prone to being crushed and the rigid has large holes that could allow gravel to clog the pipe. I started out by drilling holes, it clogged in less than a year. Slits seem the way to go.
 
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probably a lot cheaper too using 40mm.
 
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We freeze HARD - Chicago winters - and never turn the bog off. But ours waterfalls into the pond. A different method of construction may not lend itself to running all winter.
 
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I wouldn't recommend anything that could collapse. What a nightmare that would be! We actually didn't use PVC piping - we used one of these:
images.jpeg


This is called a centipede and snorkel. The centipede is the manifold, the snorkel allows access to the bottom of the bog, if we were ever to need a clean out. I dropped a pump down there a few springs ago - nothing but clear water.

Now you know why my bog is four feet deep!
 
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just had a google of centipede and snorkel... appears to be at least one seller in the uk. but at £500. hmm, bit too rich for me.

the pipe I alluded to, designed to drain wet ground, and usually covered in 12" of gravel is this; comes in 60mm, 80mm and 100mm sizes.
1618262481422.png
 
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Yeah... the pre-built components aren't cheap. But like I said, when we were building there wasn't a whole lot of information out there. We went with what we were told would work. Would I do it differently today? Maybe. But it works great, so in my mind it was money well spent.
 

mrsclem

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just had a google of centipede and snorkel... appears to be at least one seller in the uk. but at £500. hmm, bit too rich for me.

the pipe I alluded to, designed to drain wet ground, and usually covered in 12" of gravel is this; comes in 60mm, 80mm and 100mm sizes.
View attachment 137831
We have used both the 3&4" of that pipe in our yard. If you step on it, it crushes.
 
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Best way is to design so the bog does not back drain to the pond by the pipes. If you pond can handle that amount of water your golden. A back check valve / is similar to a check valve but when the power goes out the check opens instead of closes and let's air in breaking the siphon. Or a small hole in tge pipe in the waterfall area that yes will spit water when pump in running but will also break tge siphon.
 

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just had a google of centipede and snorkel... appears to be at least one seller in the uk. but at £500. hmm, bit too rich for me.

the pipe I alluded to, designed to drain wet ground, and usually covered in 12" of gravel is this; comes in 60mm, 80mm and 100mm sizes.
View attachment 137831
I used the unperforated type of drain tile/pipe and cut my own slits, so yes, it can work. I was following guidelines by a pond professional based in Georgia and I was glad I found his write-up nigh on 10 years ago. I also included a cleanout, something wide enough to get a pump into and sloped the bog+bottom to a low point, where the cleanout sat, ready in case I need it.
 
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That hpre pipe looks like the one I made exactly. Rough saw cuts from a chain saw. And every other Ridge hmmmmmmmmmmm
 
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