I have a question about swing type check valves with unions connections like this:
You cement the PVC pipes at both ends, and if something goes wrong, you can loosen the union nuts and remove the check valve body in between. This is good.
Now if the check valve fails, and you need to replace it, do you need to find the same brand/model check valve to reinstall it between those union nuts?
In other words, if this brand NDS check valve fails 3 years from now, and the sticker has worn and I no longer remember what brand it is, can I go buy a brand X union check valve of the same size, and expect once I uncouple the new check valve's union nuts on both ends, I can insert the check valve body of brand X and it will seal correctly and the union nuts of NDS will have the same threads? Or will different brands have different gasket position and union threads that I really need to replace the valve in it's entirety which means I need to drain the pond below the check valve to prime/cement the connections.
I know there are check valves with threaded connections but I tend to stay away from those because not only you need to tighten them sufficiently AND turn it till the valve "THIS SIDE UP" faces up in a horizontal position.
You cement the PVC pipes at both ends, and if something goes wrong, you can loosen the union nuts and remove the check valve body in between. This is good.
Now if the check valve fails, and you need to replace it, do you need to find the same brand/model check valve to reinstall it between those union nuts?
In other words, if this brand NDS check valve fails 3 years from now, and the sticker has worn and I no longer remember what brand it is, can I go buy a brand X union check valve of the same size, and expect once I uncouple the new check valve's union nuts on both ends, I can insert the check valve body of brand X and it will seal correctly and the union nuts of NDS will have the same threads? Or will different brands have different gasket position and union threads that I really need to replace the valve in it's entirety which means I need to drain the pond below the check valve to prime/cement the connections.
I know there are check valves with threaded connections but I tend to stay away from those because not only you need to tighten them sufficiently AND turn it till the valve "THIS SIDE UP" faces up in a horizontal position.