Floating scum all summer

[Meyer Jordan]

I would suspect that often the 'cures' attributed to Barley straw are no more than naturally occurring processes that would have happened anyway.Just so m uch more 'snake oil' to get into your wallet.

"reported" could mean published in a peer reviewed scientific journal

Scientific sources would be cited, especially by an institute of higher learning. Not referred to as "reported by".

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Well it seems that I must 'eat my words'..........sort-of.

I never really thought to research Barley Straw in the past but it seems that there have been numerous scientific studies published as to its affect on algae.
It seems that in the decomposition of the Barley Straw lignins are released that retard the growth of several species of algae, both planktonic and sessile providing certain conditions are met...high enough temperature and alkaline water.
The reason behind the 'sort-of' is that these same lignins are released by decaying 'brown wood' and leaf litter and is not unique to Barley Straw.

 

[MitchM]

Well it seems that I must 'eat my words'..........sort-of.

I never really thought to research Barley Straw in the past but it seems that there have been numerous scientific studies published as to its affect on algae.
It seems that in the decomposition of the Barley Straw lignins are released that retard the growth of several species of algae, both planktonic and sessile providing certain conditions are met...high enough temperature and alkaline water.
The reason behind the 'sort-of' is that these same lignins are released by decaying 'brown wood' and leaf litter and is not unique to Barley Straw.

Tannins?
That would fit nicely with my new project.

 

[CharlotteSC]

Still no nitrate test, got to order that tomorrow. Gh is low, Kh is high (over 200), water is warm, ph is still over 9.0 , source water is about 7.6. No run off, no feeding fish. I've added every waterlily I have but none of the plants in this pond are growing! Neither lilies or pickerel. Should I just drain the darn thing and start over?

 

[CharlotteSC]

Yea, my aquarium test strip had a nitrate strip. Nitrates are zero, strip confirms high ph, high kh and zero gh

 

[Usman]

Have u tried a cover cloth/net or some thing over pond?
when did u clean the pond bottom last time?

i think the pond is shallow and u have strong sun... its catching too much light and heat , i see this type of water in very hot days like water looks saturated , i think ur water is green too its not only surface scum, the scum is part of the algae thats inside water on to surface of floor and walls that floats back when u remove it .what happens is that algae produces O2 at day time photosynthesis it floats above and at night it stops and sinks . i can think of these things ...

u need to cover pond
if u havent cleaned pond bottom and filters in 8 months then u need to
u can add algae eating fish too like carp kois
aeration may help

 

[budgenator]

high ph, high kh and zero gh

Wow that's very soft water if the test is accurate, if my understanding is correct, your water should have a lot of Sodium Bicarbonate and Sodium Carbonate (kH measures the bicarbonate and carbonate ions) and no measureable Calcium or Magnesium ions. Is your water treated with a water softener? usually the only ways to get water that soft is a water softener or getting it from a peat bog.

My plants are slowing down but I find it curious that my water hyacinths seemed to die in the pond very early.

My water so out of whack my few hyacinths died.

Sounds to me that something has been building up in your water for a while and has hit a tripping point, and the most likely candidate is Sodium, most plants like neither too much sodium or chloride.
To get your sodium levels down, you need to do 10-20% water changes weekly. The soil your plants are in have absorbed sodium so you're going to have to do this for a long time to allow the sodium in the potted soil to leach out and be changed with your water. Don't do bigger water changes, especially if you're on "city water". City water adds phosphates to the water to prevent pipe corrosion. Flint didn't add phosphates and we saw the result. A little phosphate is needed and feeds the beneficial bacteria, a little more makes the algae explode.
To get your gH up without increasing your kH is to add Calcium Sulphate, (AKA plaster, or gypsum) and Magnesium Sulphate, (AKA Epsom Salts). Added the epsom salt slowly, dissolve it in pond water and sprinkle it in with a watering can, go easy. Gypsum is slowly dissolving so you can add it however is convenient.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Sodium is not the likely culprit here as an elevated level of Sodium ions (Na+) has been shown to restrict algae growth in fresh water. Restricted algae growth is clearly not the case in this instance.
The Nitrate level is understandably low as the algae is consuming it and proliferating.
Where (what location) in the pond are you taking the water sample to be tested. It should be obtained from as close to the outlet of the biofilter as possible. This will give a clearer picture of the actual water quality parameters Nitrate and Phosphorus.

 

[pecan]

I did not read every post on this thread but skimmed through some of the issues. My little pond gets a scummy surface without an air stone moving the water. But good airflow in the water makes it go away over night.

I live in the high desert with extremely sunny days. My hyacinths always die in the big pond (roots eaten by koi) and in the little pond (possibly because the water isn't moving that much and direct hot sun). The only place I can keep them alive is in my large water pots, where there are no fish and allot of moving water under the roots, along with afternoon and evening shade. Not sure what your location is but as far as I can tell hyacinths in desert locations NEED some shade and moving water. They just cook and normally die around the end of July at our hottest time when temps are regularly over 100 degrees.

Edit to add pictures.
This is the small pond and pots I am referring to. I was using cheap aquarium air pumps and just replacing them as they went out. But I found this on Amazon and love it, reasonably priced and allot more air output. It seems much sturdier too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see the air coming up on the left side of the first picture. The pump sits on the right and pumps water up through the pots in the bog.


Every time my air pumps have gone out, there is immediately scum on the surface, then I replace the pump and its gone the next day. I dont know the science behind it. But it does the trick.

 

[CharlotteSC]

During the early Spring, I changed alot of water out of this pond. I have a pond vac and I cleaned the bottom of the pond 3 times. (before toad time). Of course, it is a pond not an aquarium but it does not have a heavy silt load or alot of old water.

 

[Usman]

I did not read every post on this thread but skimmed through some of the issues. My little pond gets a scummy surface without an air stone moving the water. But good airflow in the water makes it go away over night.

I live in the high desert with extremely sunny days. My hyacinths always die in the big pond (roots eaten by koi) and in the little pond (possibly because the water isn't moving that much and direct hot sun). The only place I can keep them alive is in my large water pots, where there are no fish and allot of moving water under the roots, along with afternoon and evening shade. Not sure what your location is but as far as I can tell hyacinths in desert locations NEED some shade and moving water. They just cook and normally die around the end of July at our hottest time when temps are regularly over 100 degrees.

Edit to add pictures.
This is the small pond and pots I am referring to. I was using cheap aquarium air pumps and just replacing them as they went out. But I found this on Amazon and love it, reasonably priced and allot more air output. It seems much sturdier too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see the air coming up on the left side of the first picture. The pump sits on the right and pumps water up through the pots in the bog.
View attachment 100679 View attachment 100680 View attachment 100681

Every time my air pumps have gone out, there is immediately scum on the surface, then I replace the pump and its gone the next day. I dont know the science behind it. But it does the trick.

I Had same thoughts that its strong sun light and heat , some times when its too hot & direct sun , fishes may look scared too they sit at the bottom as colder water is at lower level
im not sure if aeration will make water more warm or will it help ... but it shud b tried , its not expensive . in the long term alot of medium height plants can b planted on borders they will block most of the sun rays and give shade

 

[Backyard koi]

Hi all, I've had some similar water issues this year w/ algae overgrowth, scum & bubbles recurring often. I'm new to forum - thanks to all for great info sharing & place to learn!! Wish I'd have had this info last year, but found mostly store sites w/ at least some good info, but sales pitches too. Find my GH is very low 20-30 (see tests below)& NEED RECIPE for how much gypsum &/or crushed oysters & epsom salt to add/gallon? Also how to add ...dissolve & add at perimeter? Toss shell in pond bottom or put in mesh bag for water to flow through?

History: I inherited my 5,800-6,000 gal 10-year-old established pond a little over year ago, 12 good size Koi 1-2.25 feet, 30+ gold fish (GF with some growths and sores, koi all seemed healthy, removed diseased gf as I could catch them!), lots of learning 1st year, but water tests helped keep on track, used barley extract w/ success to clear up some algae, algaefix x1, added more plants and mostly used baking soda to keep KH up, muck eliminator tabs & top & bottom net skimming, net covers pond in winter, have very soft water ( water softener). Added salt for very low level 1-2 x w/ good results to 0.1% & subsequent improved fish appearance ( bug eye appeance to many gf resolved) and behavior of 1 koi . I have read many threads about salt or not, but I think with my soft water it has been helpful to keep it at .1% and plants seem to thrive fine with that. I ended up with a leak last year at the skimmer level which led to a lot of water additions so effectively doing water changes often w/ dechlor.
THIS YEAR - lots of rain, leak fixed, so less water changes, but have cleaned large filter box several times due to heavy algae -- entails some water changes, tests ok except GH/KH & salt low, adjusted except GH - need to correct! Have used algaefix x2 already (won't use again anytime soon though, dislike chemicals unless critical) this year. I have a little less shade but well shaded much of day/ not that different, but much more bubbles, film on surface this yr, helped w/ filter cleanings. Have cut back feeding dramatically, likely need to decrease gf load further (~23 now), getting some H2O hyacinth & lillies tomorrow.
MOST CONCERNING is a few koi now have sores in last couple weeks, local pond store recommended increasing salt percent to .2 or .3% after removing pond plants, leave for a week or two then do water changes and put plants back when returns to .1%. After reading posts here do not believe that will be helpful. Have a large container to do salt baths/dip, but not sure how to catch koi without harming them, not sure what to treat with if doing partially drained full pond treatment ??
SPECS/TESTs: Lined pond, Savio excellence skimmer, waterfall, unsure pump, but good circulation, large filter box, UV in skimmer, but only 1of 2 working (same as last year), have used batting filter in skimmer on/off & is saturated w/ algae in a few hours, better after 2nd algaefix. Little if any runoff.
RECENT TEST RESULTS: (LaMotte Freshwater aquaculture test kit, Pond Care ammonia & salt level tests, API test strip for nitrite/nitrate only): pH 7.5, ammonia 0 ppm, KH 180-200, GH 24-30, Chloride 800 ppm/0.08%, salt 0.1%, dissolved O2 6ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 0 ppm, water temp 79/82F. Have not tested phosphorus.
Thanks for reading my long post. Any recommendations welcome, particularly on elevating GH and treating Koi. ?Add Stress coat w/ water changes? Not opposed to working at it, but would like to spend more time enjoying pond than worrying about it!

 

[sissy]

Please do not use algeafix it is death in a bottle .It has been really weird weather this year cold and hot and lots of rain .

 

[pinonponder]

CharlotteSC, I feel your pain. I was dealing with the floating algae scum, too. My pond is in full sun for about 5 hours and not much plant coverage yet. The sides of the pond have a nice coverage of algae, which my fish love to nibble. The bottom is fairly clean with just a little dirt that blows in. The waterfall is clean, with little algae on the rocks. I think the full sun and lack of plant coverage is the problem. I have to rinse the matala filter pad in the skimmer every morning and by early afternoon it is full of the green snot algae again. lol! But 2 days ago I put an extra pump on the bottom of the pond for more water movement. I think someone suggested this on this forum. Today there was noticeably less floating algae. I'm hoping water movement is the reason. Crossing fingers and toes. HTH!

 

[sissy]

Water movement and aeration are a ponds friend