Pond to foot traffic

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Hi, guys -
Just wanted to post a pic of our transition. I think it's working out in spite of an alarming amount of guesswork :)

There's a shelf in the pond about 16" deep. On the foot traffic side of the pond I concentrated on stacking big flat rocks a little bit on the steep side and trying to secure with pond foam as we went up. The rock on the other three sides is loose-stacked and laid up with a more gentle angle of repose.

So, back to the foot traffic side. When we were pretty sure we were just a little bit shy of the finished elevation (I used the elevation of the steps in the background as a guide) we stopped foaming and stacking. I poured some crushed gravel into all the gaps, then mixed up some concrete and shoveled it on top. We squished the big flat stones you see into the mud and left it alone.

Weeks later, we started dry-laying the flagstone. This iwa sold to us as Cabinet Gorge by Mutual Materials in Olympia WA. "Cabinet Gorge" refers to the mountains where they got the stuff, so it's probably called that in other parts of the country too. Thankfully, we guessed pretty closely with our elevations. If the flagstone or the flat river rock didn't match up pretty close we would been pooched.

We bought a half ton of 3/8 - 0" crushed rock at a nearby gravel yard for sweeping into the gaps. I wasn't going to pay big bucks for little sacks of the "special" sand.

The pillars with the little rocks glued on are Quikcrete concrete tubes underneath. I mixed up some straight Portland Cement to "glue" the river rocks onto the tubes. We plan to cap the pillars just above the rocks with bits of flagstone, wood, metal; something to give it a finished look.

I think it came out OK for a couple of amateurs and thought it might encourage someone to give it a try.
 

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Joined
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Since you can only edit your own posts for a short period of time, here I am talking to myself. Basic tools needed for laying flagstone -

- A good method of checking for level. We were fortunate to be able to borrow an industrial strength laser level.
- A solid footing for the flagstone. The entire area we're covering was filled with coarse sand and driveway gravel many years ago. If you decide to start a project like this on an area with topsoil or lawn you should dig down deeper and do more prep work.
- One or two big rubber hammers. You can see ours in the pic. You form a loose bed under each stone, then start smacking it down into place. Might have to lift and toss more ballast in several times. If the rock is teetering, you probably want to keep lifting and back-filling. After smacking with the hammer a few times, you can see the areas that need filling when you lift the rock.
- A small rock mason's hammer. Flat face on one side of the metal head, pick on the other side. For making small adjustments to rocks. Because of the way this sedimentary rock would start to delaminate if you banged on the edges, I went back to the saws for any substantial manipulation.
- Kneepads.
- I made a small workbench out of sawhorses and heavy plywood for cutting rocks. There was already way too much kneeling for me.
- I used a 4.5" grinder and a Skilsaw, both set up with diamond wheels. The Skilsaw was used for the thicker pieces. Although it was more awkward than the little grinder it cut faster.
- Garden hose, pinched back so that you get just enough water to lubricate the cut. It was not always easy to hold the rock, the water hose, and the cutting device but worth it to lengthen the blade's lifespan.

I found that after a few hours, my creativity went out the window and all the rocks started to look the same. My knees and back began to hurt, and I'd start getting lazy about either finding the right rock or making the cuts that I knew I should make. That's when it was time to take a break or wrap it up for the day.
 

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