self priming pump installation

[addy1]

Won't a check valve reduce the draw of your pump? Why not put a ball valve instead that way you can shut it off if you need to or not.

i did that on one of my ponds, just shut the line. The only issue was power outs, if the pump loses prime without the check valve. Mine here keeps prime with no issue.

 

[fishin4cars]

Valve would work better for if your right there when you need to shut down, check valve works when you not and power goes off and comes back on.

 

[KennethO]

Depends on the check valve. The cheap spring compression valves will lower the flow a ton. But flap types should work just as well for your system.
Here is an example. http://www.zoellerpumps.com/ProductBenefit.aspx?ProductID=308

Also, most pumps come with built in check valves. I would still add one tho as a back up. Open the leaf basket/prime pot. On the inlet you should usually see a rubber flap over it. As a side note. If you ever have to prime it with a hose or add water when the filter is up and running during mid-season then use declorinator or remover the media or you will kill the bacteria.

 

[damian]

i just got the cheap spring type.

 

[taherrmann4]

Depends on the check valve. The cheap spring compression valves will lower the flow a ton. But flap types should work just as well for your system.
Here is an example. http://www.zoellerpumps.com/ProductBenefit.aspx?ProductID=308

Also, most pumps come with built in check valves. I would still add one tho as a back up. Open the leaf basket/prime pot. On the inlet you should usually see a rubber flap over it. As a side note. If you ever have to prime it with a hose or add water when the filter is up and running during mid-season then use declorinator or remover the media or you will kill the bacteria.

I have these on my sump pump, never thought about using them. Thanks.

My pump does not have a check valve and I do not have a ball valve either, will add one when I do the whole BD thing, the only bad part I see not having these is the water drains back to the pond from the filter. I have a self priming pump so no big deal.

 

[KennethO]

And when it siphons back it sucks all the gunk in the filter back into the pond.

 

[fishin4cars]

Unless there is a HIGH chloirine level your not going to pump enough in to kill the bacteria, still not a bad idea to use the dechlorinator anytime your adding water but I've never seen a problem unless the filter is rinsed with straight chlorinated water.
On the spring type back flow, they don't hold as well as the flapper type, I had a spring type and you could here it as it would bounce open and close to balance the pressure. The flapper type seals off if there is more head pressure from above but fully opens when there is any pressure from behind. Also with the flapper type I noticed no difference in flow rate change with or without it. the spring type I noticed a little difference ofr sure.
I don't think when I bought them that there was that much difference in price, maybe a few $$.??

 

[KennethO]

Ya, maybe 3 dollar difference. Might want to make sure it's rated for sewage just incase you get leaves. But I highly doubt it would matter. I like the zoellers, thier very durable and a very respectable manufacturer. And you can glue them or use the rubber boots if you want, very versatile.

Declor isn't needed but I can see if it was a large line that held a decent amount of water, then it could get pretty concentrated.

O, and did you go with 3 inch from the skimmer or smaller? Curious how the flow will be since the bdrain is 3?

 

[damian]

they didn't have the flapper type at lowe's. maybe i'll take a quick look at a few other places before i do the install this weekend.

i am doing 2" from the skimmer to the pump, because that is what the inlet is on the pump. unfortunately, my bd outlet pipe narrows from 3" to 1.5" right at the skimmer because that is the largest bulkhead that would fit.

 

[addy1]

they didn't have the flapper type at lowe's. maybe i'll take a quick look at a few other places before i do the install this weekend.

i am doing 2" from the skimmer to the pump, because that is what the inlet is on the pump. unfortunately, my bd outlet pipe narrows from 3" to 1.5" right at the skimmer because that is the largest bulkhead that would fit.

Look at a plumbing store, we ended up with a brass spring type, the only one that home depot carried.

The nut fell off and the spring disappeared some where, but with our slope the check valve holds well when the pump shuts off. Next time I am in town i am going to check into a different check valve. This is just for our stream pump. The bog pump does not have a check valve, it never loses prime.

 

[taherrmann4]

If you look at Lowes I think these are located back where they have the sump and sewage pumps, don't believe it is with the other plumbing stuff at least in my lowes.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

[damian]

cool, i'll go back and check. they definitely weren't in the aisle with the rest of the plumbing valves.

 

[damian]

btw, do people generally cement all the fittings from the skimmer to the pump? i'm burying the line a few inches to hide it so it would make sense, but it seems like it would be a pain to have to cut everything up every time you wanted to change the configuration at all.

 

[taherrmann4]

I cemented some and I used the rubber pipe fittings as well. Can't think of what their official name is right now. This gave me flexibility in the angle of the pipe in the ground and I have redone it once already so I did not have to cut and reglue.

Edit: Ahhh found them at Lowes here is a link. Called a flexible coupling, they also have them in 90 degree, and T's.
http://www.lowes.com/pl_Flexible+PV...d_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

 

[taherrmann4]

I also use them for the connections to my pump so I can take it in for the winter.