Marshall
Turtle Keeper + CPL(H)
Here are the guidelines I use and recommend for setting up & maintaining a healthy terrarium habitat for semi-aquatic turtles (red eared sliders, map, painted etc):
Size: No less than 40 gallons even for hatchlings because they will rapidly outgrow anything smaller making it a complete waste of money. For anything over 6 to 8 inches go up to a 75 gallon and for full grown use a 150 gallon or larger. Preferably 300 gallons + for mature adults. I go from glass tanks to plastic & fiberglass stock tanks of 500 up 1200 gallon size for adults depending on how many are in it and the temperament of the turtles (some turtles can be land hogs and be quite cruel to tank mates if too crowded)
Filtration: Even though you will not fill the tank to the rim, you still need a bio-filter, UV-sterilizer & secondary filter (HOB or skimmer etc) that is rated for the full tank gallon size. I personally use filters rated for size + 50% on mine.
Cleaning: Do a 30 -40% change weekly. A 50% change and substrate clean bi-weekly (remove food and fecal waste from substrate if any or from tank floor if bare) A 100% water change should be done at least every 30 days and you should clean all your filters especially the external bio-filter when you do this 100% change. Be sure to use tank water to clean the filter and this will be easy since you will have the full 100% of water to dispose of anyway. Also make sure that you don't expose the turtles to the new water until it is above 65 degrees F as temps below that temp can cause them pain and will shock their system.
Basking/Drying Areas & Lamps & Ventilation: All aquatic turtles need to have an area that is easily accessible to them and can accommodate all of the turtles in the tank at the same time with wiggle/turning room left. The are must be dry and good ventilation with a low speed fan will help this area dry as well as keep air healthy and reduce odors in the habitat. The basking area must have both a heat light and a UV-light that will reach the entire surface area of the basking spot. The heat lamp should be able to bring the area temp to 90 -95 F but no hotter than 100 or so F. Turtles do not care about nor do the understand the way the lamps work and will splash water on them if they are mounted too close to the water. Best placement is over the center of the basking are as this distributes evenly and the dock provides splash protection. Also make sure the turtles can't touch or reach the light or they may get burned or knock it into the water causing an electric shock that will likely kill them and possibly start a fire. I personally use a metal grate type material that both keeps the lights from being touched or going into the water as well as providing a security barrier so they don't escape. The light will need to be on for at least 10 hours a day but must be off for at least 8 hours at night so the turtles get rest. Your water heater should be able to maintain the water temp at 75 to 78 especially at night but you don't want the water temp to be above 80F as this will take away the incentive to get out of the water onto the basking areas to warm up during the day. Not getting UV-light, heat and drying off will cause the turtles to get shell rot as well as put them at risk for other infections and also pyramiding risk is elevated.
Follow up: If you have questions you can respond here if brief or you can contact me by visiting the rescue website @ http://www.msatr.org or text question to either 706-957-2900 (daytime) or 706-416-8288 (nighttime or emergencies 24/7) if you would rather email you can use (e-mail address removed) or (e-mail address removed)
Size: No less than 40 gallons even for hatchlings because they will rapidly outgrow anything smaller making it a complete waste of money. For anything over 6 to 8 inches go up to a 75 gallon and for full grown use a 150 gallon or larger. Preferably 300 gallons + for mature adults. I go from glass tanks to plastic & fiberglass stock tanks of 500 up 1200 gallon size for adults depending on how many are in it and the temperament of the turtles (some turtles can be land hogs and be quite cruel to tank mates if too crowded)
Filtration: Even though you will not fill the tank to the rim, you still need a bio-filter, UV-sterilizer & secondary filter (HOB or skimmer etc) that is rated for the full tank gallon size. I personally use filters rated for size + 50% on mine.
Cleaning: Do a 30 -40% change weekly. A 50% change and substrate clean bi-weekly (remove food and fecal waste from substrate if any or from tank floor if bare) A 100% water change should be done at least every 30 days and you should clean all your filters especially the external bio-filter when you do this 100% change. Be sure to use tank water to clean the filter and this will be easy since you will have the full 100% of water to dispose of anyway. Also make sure that you don't expose the turtles to the new water until it is above 65 degrees F as temps below that temp can cause them pain and will shock their system.
Basking/Drying Areas & Lamps & Ventilation: All aquatic turtles need to have an area that is easily accessible to them and can accommodate all of the turtles in the tank at the same time with wiggle/turning room left. The are must be dry and good ventilation with a low speed fan will help this area dry as well as keep air healthy and reduce odors in the habitat. The basking area must have both a heat light and a UV-light that will reach the entire surface area of the basking spot. The heat lamp should be able to bring the area temp to 90 -95 F but no hotter than 100 or so F. Turtles do not care about nor do the understand the way the lamps work and will splash water on them if they are mounted too close to the water. Best placement is over the center of the basking are as this distributes evenly and the dock provides splash protection. Also make sure the turtles can't touch or reach the light or they may get burned or knock it into the water causing an electric shock that will likely kill them and possibly start a fire. I personally use a metal grate type material that both keeps the lights from being touched or going into the water as well as providing a security barrier so they don't escape. The light will need to be on for at least 10 hours a day but must be off for at least 8 hours at night so the turtles get rest. Your water heater should be able to maintain the water temp at 75 to 78 especially at night but you don't want the water temp to be above 80F as this will take away the incentive to get out of the water onto the basking areas to warm up during the day. Not getting UV-light, heat and drying off will cause the turtles to get shell rot as well as put them at risk for other infections and also pyramiding risk is elevated.
Follow up: If you have questions you can respond here if brief or you can contact me by visiting the rescue website @ http://www.msatr.org or text question to either 706-957-2900 (daytime) or 706-416-8288 (nighttime or emergencies 24/7) if you would rather email you can use (e-mail address removed) or (e-mail address removed)
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