Winter Pond Temps

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good to know, thanks Colleen. Maybe in the future i can consider getting one. But on the other hand is one other thing i'm also not sure of, that when i read the specs about this 1500w inline heater, it only has 1.5'' hose in and out connections. The hose between my pump and filter is 2''. If i install this heater i'd have to reduce my hose to 1.5'' and it will reduce the flow. It doesn't matter in the winter as i don;t run my pump full flow anyway, but once you glue it permanently to the pipes it would have to stay there in the summer as well even if i unplug it, but summertime i ran 4 waterfall filters additional to main bead filter plus one extra venturi pipe so i wouldn't want any flow reduction then. So it seems like it could be another obstacle and something to overthink of, and just stick with old fashioned deicer.
 

callingcolleen1

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good to know, thanks Colleen. Maybe in the future i can consider getting one. But on the other hand is one other thing i'm also not sure of, that when i read the specs about this 1500w inline heater, it only has 1.5'' hose in and out connections. The hose between my pump and filter is 2''. If i install this heater i'd have to reduce my hose to 1.5'' and it will reduce the flow. It doesn't matter in the winter as i don;t run my pump full flow anyway, but once you glue it permanently to the pipes it would have to stay there in the summer as well even if i unplug it, but summertime i ran 4 waterfall filters additional to main bead filter plus one extra venturi pipe so i wouldn't want any flow reduction then. So it seems like it could be another obstacle and something to overthink of, and just stick with old fashioned deicer.
I see you don't even get very cold, I would not even worry about heating your pond, unless the temperatures falls well below minus 15 Celsius for several days. Sounds like you don't get below that very often, and if your ground is not frozen solid, you will be just fine with a little ice and running water.
Here in Canada the ground can freeze down deep, below 4 feet, sometimes down to 6 feet, and my temperture falls well below minus 40 below zero some days..
 
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I see you don't even get very cold, I would not even worry about heating your pond, unless the temperatures falls well below minus 15 Celsius for several days. Sounds like you don't get below that very often, and if your ground is not frozen solid, you will be just fine with a little ice and running water.
Here in Canada the ground can freeze down deep, below 4 feet, sometimes down to 6 feet, and my temperture falls well below minus 40 below zero some days..
Yes I heard that West Canada winters are super cold. You probably don't have that many months to enjoy your koi? I heard that ponds there freeze sometimes in October and don't show up till end of April? In the case like this I think it's must to have heaters, i don't even know how fish even survive in the cold for that long. Here i feed (of course just small amounts compare to summer time) my koi all the way till mid to end of November, and restart feeding mid March. The temperature here can go below -15C and sometimes even a little lower, but usually at night, but in the day times it would warm up a bit, to -1-, -7C it can stay like this for several days, but eventually will go back above freezing for awhile. Anyway, with all cons of inline heater i mentioned above it makes sense for me to get one. I'm actually very pleased with how this year i was able to keep pond completely free of ice with just running water, aerators, and occasional plug in of deicers. Hopefully the spring restart will be painless this year as well, unlike other years when ammonia sky rocketed during filter maturing.
 

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My ponds are nice and clear all year round with no UV light ever, and I can see the fish most of the time, but right now they have quite a bit of ice. The heater was not plugged in for days, during warm spell, and temperatures made it to just above freezing during day and about -10 Celsius at night for a while last week. That was not to bad for this time of the year. Not warming up much today and ground is froze again hard, so that greatly affects how much ice you get too. The upper two top ponds are from about 4 to 12 inches above ground, and they deice very fast with running water during warm spells, and then I can see down deep and enjoy the Horn wort that seems to thrive all year round! My to biggest koi are 24 years old and doing very well under the ice with Water flowing all year round.

Here is a peak of some of my seasons...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jys69tFKJms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROYqjdqBFks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jys69tFKJms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipUIP06xwfE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPSfRzbv-WY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oR6nhz_lCbk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afa5bZgVJf0
 
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you should stop feeding at 10c koi will fast throughout the winter and if the do eat it will be from the algae on the sides of the pond , by feeding to November you risk causing your koi when the temperature goes up again at the moment your pond has nothing in the way of helpful bacteria your ammonia will sky rocket whilst the bacteria recolonates the filters and pond.
You must sart with wheat germ and garlic small amounts at first only when your temperature is stable above 10c for a number of weeks this way in future you shouldnt have any problems .
Did you clean your filters prior to the end of Autumn and remove any dead leaves detritus etc from the bottom of your pond , which all koi keepers do in the UK its good husbandry of your pond and koi .


Dave
 
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Agreed Colleen but Milocat needs understand part of the problems caused in spring in his/her pond are down to feeding into november 10c is the rule Wheatgerm and garlic should be feed in the run up to the cut of temperature and then again in the spring after that same 10c start up point begins until early summer when we can switch to a higher protien feed .
Feeding intonovember is a dangerous game to play for the koi in his/her pond .

Dave
 
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you should stop feeding at 10c koi will fast throughout the winter and if the do eat it will be from the algae on the sides of the pond , by feeding to November you risk causing your koi when the temperature goes up again at the moment your pond has nothing in the way of helpful bacteria your ammonia will sky rocket whilst the bacteria recolonates the filters and pond.
You must sart with wheat germ and garlic small amounts at first only when your temperature is stable above 10c for a number of weeks this way in future you shouldnt have any problems .
Did you clean your filters prior to the end of Autumn and remove any dead leaves detritus etc from the bottom of your pond , which all koi keepers do in the UK its good husbandry of your pond and koi .


Dave
Thanks Dave, yes i do know those rules, but you probably have colder temperatures then we 're here: I'm in northern part of New Jersey and in November we still for the most part of the month have the water temperature staying above 10C. our September here is still a summer month, and we have water temperature staying 20 C and above constantly, in October it starts to drop down to 15-17 c. And usually the water temperature in November stays around 55-52 F (13 to 11 C) that's why our feeding period here usually starts from mid March to end November. and i do feed them spring-fall wheatgerm diet in temperature below 17 C and when the water goes to 50 F and below i stop feeding. I always clean the bottom of my pond constantly, in the summer and in the fall, so the bottom is pretty clean. Got Pondvac a few years ago, so i vacuum the bottom of the pond every 2-3 weeks. And I always get all the leaves out after leaf fall finishes. I keep it covered with the net during leaf fall to prevent too many leafs falling in. I did learn all this rules years ago when started my first pond. I think my problem in the spring for a past couple years have been from long cooler spring temperatures last 2 years: we had the temperatures have been warm to feed fish, but not warm enough for filters to mature after it's being off in the winter. The water temperature have been staying in 15-17 C for several weeks, so fish is eating at this temperatures but for the new not establish filer the temperature have to stay 20 C and above for a few weeks in order for bacteria to start rapidly growing, so it did create a problem with ammonia. The only way i knew how to keep fish safe from it is constantly adding ammonia locking/removing products. I have to do it for over a month till the temperature finally warmed up and filters started to work. That prompted me to think of the way to bypass all waterfalls and try to leave filter running all winter and hope that it would eliminate the problem in the spring. Now i'm yet to determine if it will help.
I like your videos Collen, looks nice. thanks for sharing. The last video you made on Jan 29, i've noticed that you also have quite a bit string algae on your walls. I have tremendous problem with it last spring (my pump and filter wasn't running last winter) And when i restarted it in the spring I tried to pull it off the walls best i could but it was so much of it so it still clogged up all my prefilter baskets and worst of all, filter media, that i had to open the bead filter and wash of the media manually. It was a lot of work. This year i do have it growing longer on the walls, but seems to be not as long as last year. I put this winter 4 barley bales and also hoping that running water would help. Still not sure if it would create a problem. occasionally when water warms up I see the fish is nibbling on the algae, but it will be about a month to 5 weeks before they actively will start eating it, so it may grow longer and create a problem for the filter. I also made another prefitler basket with much smaller holes then the original one has in the pond. Just put it on the top of original one hoping to catch more of this string gook before it will enter a filter. In one of the photos you see that home made prefilter basket i made. I'm thinking to get one of those mechanical algae removing tools: http://www.thepondoutlet.com/home/tpo/smartlist_285/algae_removal.html thinking that the Algae witch looks best: http://www.thepondoutlet.com/home/tpo/page_2812_285/algae control, pond maintenance Any ideas or suggestions of how to fight this string algae in the winter? In the summer string algae never a problem, as fish eat it all, and for the floating kind my 2 UV lights are doing good job to keep water clear. Also i have few Lilly plants (you can see on the picture from this summer) that i think also help with algae. Actually i'm only plug in UV lights probably have a time; 2 weeks on 10 days-2 weeks off, and it seems to work fine. I'm including some photos of my fish i took today. So far they're doing ok, no sleeping sickness koi this winter, as i had 2 years ago. in addition to koi I have 2 baby red cap orandas and accidental 5 baby gold fish/comets, i'm not actually sure what they are because it was accidental breeding one of my orandas with 2 shibunkins i had. I didn't even know that they can mix, but last summer i noticed that 2 of my male shibunkins were chasing pregnant oranga, and i made a mistake by allowing it to happen, instead of removing Oranda from the pond, and in result shibunkins pin poor slow Oranda between lilly pot, and stressed it out so much, so i couldn't even save it and it eventually died couple weeks later. I was so upset and gave the shibunkins away, as i really like orandas and didn't want for anything to happen to them in a future. Koi really doesn't bother them, but the gold fish would kill them if they're pregnant. But a few weeks later i discover 5 baby gold fish/comets. They look like gold fish 2 red ones and 2 white with red, but i know they're mixture of shibunkings and poor deceased oranda. Actually i see all 5 those gold fish and 2 orandas i have now swimming almost all the times, nibbling on the algae, like cold water doesn't even matter for them. I'll definitely will give all 5 gold fish away in the spring, so i'll only stick with koi and 2 oranges.
Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions,
Kira
 

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With the warmer temperatures we've been having (up to 57f/14c), both levels of the pond temperatures have been rising. Both levels have been at 35f/1.7c for most of the winter. Coming up on 5 months now.
The bottom 5 foot temp is reading 38f/3.3c and the 2 foot level is 37f/2.8c.
I'm not sure what the cause of the rise in temperatures is. There is still 14 inches of ice on the whole pond.
It could be the sunlight, but I don't know how much of that light could actually be making it through that much ice.
The ground is still pretty frozen also.
 

Troutredds

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With the warmer temperatures we've been having (up to 57f/14c), both levels of the pond temperatures have been rising. Both levels have been at 35f/1.7c for most of the winter. Coming up on 5 months now.
The bottom 5 foot temp is reading 38f/3.3c and the 2 foot level is 37f/2.8c.
I'm not sure what the cause of the rise in temperatures is. There is still 14 inches of ice on the whole pond.
It could be the sunlight, but I don't know how much of that light could actually be making it through that much ice.
The ground is still pretty frozen also.
There must be just enough solar radiant heat reaching the liquid water under the ice to raise the temp a wee bit. Hang in there Mitch - spring is almost here. (y)
 
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There must be just enough solar radiant heat reaching the liquid water under the ice to raise the temp a wee bit. ... (y)

You could be right Troutredds. This is the first year that I've had relatively accurate pond thermometers.
I'm looking forward to next winter when I plan to have a low volume circulation pump running the whole winter.:)
 

addy1

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The bottom of my, way south of you, pond is reading 38, I don't have one near the surface.

Patiently waiting for it to melt!
 
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Finally got a good look at my pond today. Lots of green algae forming, but all my fish made it! Temp is 40 degrees. Is there a rule of thumb about when to put our more powerful creator's back in the pond? For now I'm just running a small one and letting things "wake up" slowly.
 

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