Are my fish acting normal?


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I recently finished my pond and put my fish in 2 days ago. At first they all seemed very happy swimming around and exploring the pond. After a few hours though they seemed to all gather around at the bottom of the pond not eating or swimming about at all. Except for 1 who I found dead this morning :( can anyone help? As I want to do everything I can to save the rest of them.

Thanks

Liam
 
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How recently did you finish your pond?
Did you allow enough time for it to cycle before you put the fish in?
Have you performed any water quality tests?
 

addy1

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How much are you feeding? How big is you pond, how many fish?
 
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I fed them once but they didn't touch it so I'm thinking I'll try again tomorrow. I left the pond for about a week waited for the water to green then turned my filter on. I haven't done any tests. The pond is 3m x 4m and about 3ft deep in the middle. I have about 12 fish, goldfish comets shubbys 2 sterlets and 2 small koi.
 
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Ponds take about 4 weeks before they are ready for fish.
The fish are likely suffering from ammonia and/or nitrite poisoning, do not feed any more, that will make it worse.
The algae will help with reducing ammonia levels but the ammonia is needed for a biofilm to develop.
You could add salt to the pond to help the fish deal with nitrite levels.
You could remove the fish to a separate tank with zeolite to handle the ammonia while your outdoor pond completes it's cycle.
Unfortunately the gills of your fish are already damaged, you could be seeing more deaths, sorry.
 
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The 2 white tip sterlet I have seem to be very happy swimming around as normal.
 
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Before you add salt, get ammonia and nitrite water test kits and determine what the actual levels are.
Let us know what the numbers are.
Also, try to learn what it means to add salt to your pond, it is detrimental to plants.
I prefer to move the fish to a separate tank while the pond finishes cycling.

A quick google search gave me this result for you regarding nitrites and salt:
http://www.cuttlebrookkoifarm.co.uk/articles/180-understanding-nitrite

Edit - better yet, get yourself a master test kit such as one from API.
 
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Hi there Liam, just wanted to say welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about the problems you've been having, there sure is a lot to learn when you have your first pond. Thankfully this is a great place to learn (y)
 
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Thanks guys. im at work now till 10 tonight. will try pick up a test kit tomorrow morning.
 
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I recently finished my pond and put my fish in 2 days ago. At first they all seemed very happy swimming around and exploring the pond. After a few hours though they seemed to all gather around at the bottom of the pond not eating or swimming about at all. Except for 1 who I found dead this morning :( can anyone help? As I want to do everything I can to save the rest of them.

Thanks

Liam

I totally agree with MitchM. Your pond is new and not cycled. First get a good test kit for ammonia, ph, nitrite and KH. The nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria will take at least a month to start working on the ammonia and the nitrites. The PH is also critical that it is buffered. The PH number is not as important ( 7.2 -9.0 ) as the KH which buffers it. First I would suggest using this >>> http://www.amazon.com/Fritz-Aquatic...8&qid=1438743460&sr=8-6&keywords=pond+ammonia
to bind your ammonia. Then, I would add baking soda slowing ( PH of 8.4 ) until your KH is above 6dh. I keep mine at 10dh which when multiplied by 17.9 gives you the ppm. The reason to do it slow is that if your ph is 7.4 for ex:, you want to take several days to reach 8.4. The fish can be at the bottom for several reasons. One would be high ammonia, 2nd could be a ph imbalance. You can google much of anything but you might want to obtain a book. Keep that ammonia at 0, preferably with binders rather than water changes to quicken the bacteria buildup. then the PH and KH are critical.
when you see a slight nitrite spike, that means the good bacteria that thrive on the ammonia are started to build. Expect to lose fish in the beginning so don't invest in many expensive fish. Best of luck. btw- you can buy a 40 lb bag of pool salt for $10, use 1lb / 100 gallons and that should take care of your nitrites for now.
 
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Whoa hold a moment here people you have to remember that this chaps a novice and as such all this is new to him and its most probably quite frightening to see his fish die so lets keep it plain and simple.
Also as a Brit like Liam I'm acctually along with other British members of GPF able to name products we have in the UK. We are as of yet unable to buy many US Products that have not have reached our shores as of yet [otherwise your talking double dutch to him yes]?,
Plus we also dont have access to many of the medicated antibiotic drugs you can buy over the counter in the US and have to visit the vet first for a prescription.
Liam First off buy a pond master API test kit plus a seperate API Nitrates kit they retail about £34 for the master kit plus another £8-9.00 or there abouts.
Then take your tests and come back to us with the results.
Your fish load for a brand new pond is way too high many use a sacrificial fish or two to kick start the cycle but weve now got to try and work with the load you have to get your pond cycled.
How many gallons is your pond and what filtration does your pond have, also you'll need to know that to the exact gallonage for any future treatments .
Whilst your in the fish shop buying the test kits you'll need to buy a bottle of Ammo Lock this will render your ammonia less harmful so that it wont do any further damage to your fishes gills also it negates the need for salt which to us has no business being in a pond of fresh water fish [it is however used in short term Salt baths], to rid a fish of parasites before it goes into Quarentine [your going to need a QT fasility to QT any further fish prior to them going into your pond after 4 to 8 weeks so it will als need to be filtered if your introcucing only one at a time perhaps a fish tank .
Tell me did you introduce your fish from different stores [something you must never do] because of the risk of cross infection to your other fish.:(
I tend to suggest to Newbees to our hobby to buy one or two books on the subject of fish health which explains everything your going to need to know about our hobby [weve been koi keeping now for 28 years].
But for the moment the best one to buy would be this on Amazon books UK :-

The Manual of Fish Health ISBN 0861013869. Dr Chris Andrews Adrian Exell, Dr Neville Carrington

This is the first ever book we owned about fish health issues and it turned us around from exactly where your at to very successful fish keepers.
We now have a vast reference library but together over 28 years totalling 100 books [an adiction I've had since my training ship days when I was a Librarian in the ships Library] :LOL:


Dave
 
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Your fish load for a brand new pond is way too high many use a sacrificial fish or two to kick start the cycle but weve now got to try and work with the load you have to get your pond cycled.
...

I really do not agree with using so called sacrificial fish for cycling.
Using straight ammonia is much simpler and humane.
 
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I really do not agree with using so called sacrificial fish for cycling.
Using straight ammonia is much simpler and humane.
The aim of the game is to keep the fish alive Mitch its just what they are termed as and not a bit like the feeders you have over the pond something we see as extremely cruel and un-neccessary :cry:
When I gave my sacrificial Orfe over to a garden centre owner friends lake his Aquatic shop Manager had never seen such a huge orfe in his life :happy:

Dave
 
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If feeder fish are used as food for larger fish, I don't have a problem with that. (as long as it's an appropriate food - that's another discussion...)
I don't know why fishless cycling is not promoted by fish/pond stores.
It seems to me to be a great way to increase education about water quality testing and sell more water test kits.
 
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If feeder fish are used as food for larger fish, I don't have a problem with that. (as long as it's an appropriate food - that's another discussion...)
I don't know why fishless cycling is not promoted by fish/pond stores.
It seems to me to be a great way to increase education about water quality testing and sell more water test kits.
I agree Mitch but the health officer who was mentoring me during the change over suggested it as a thing to focus the mind somewhat having live fish in a to be cycled pond I remember being paraniod as hell as things started to creep on up on the test kit readout telling me to stay calm and not to panic because its all going to turn out well , remember we'd kept indoors for 22 years and were usd to an ordered tank with perameters that had been stable for many years :LOL: we can laugh at it now all these years later but not at the time :(



Dave
 
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Meyer Jordan

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If feeder fish are used as food for larger fish, I don't have a problem with that. (as long as it's an appropriate food - that's another discussion...)
I don't know why fishless cycling is not promoted by fish/pond stores.
It seems to me to be a great way to increase education about water quality testing and sell more water test kits.

I am of the same line of thought here. Why subject any fish to the stress of a newly cycling pond, when it can be easily avoided.
 
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I am of the same line of thought here. Why subject any fish to the stress of a newly cycling pond, when it can be easily avoided.
Why put a feeder fish in a tank of a preditor to b ripped apart whilst still alive Meyer thats my thoughts , the stress the poor fish is under trying desperately to stay one step ahead of the preditor" which it cant ":(
Now thats cruel and un-neccessary to many people :(

Dave
 
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