could/should I add a bog?


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You built a very nice looking pond area there. I would do both i would build up behind the shed like you said with 3 layers of 6x6 at least this will give you a little bit of a drop from the bog into your pond. But i would also bring it across the back of the pond along the fence up to the second rock. Once you learn what beautiful plants you can grow in the bog AND THE BEST PART IS NEXT TO NO WEEDING . And CLEAR WATER
This is very similar to what I was thinking. A long bog between the pond and the fence and if need be, extended further between the shed and fence. No need for a river, which could be troublesome. Butt the bog right up to the pond.
A bog, if sized correctly will completely clear your water like magic. No more filter maintenance. Just watch that the plant roots in the bog don't get out of control.
 
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After the seam tape is applied you could and should apply a bead of epdm compatable caulking to the seam edge and then after that if you want to sleep like a baby you can get a cover tape to protect the seam. so if you have seam tape, caulking, and cover tape. caulking again you now have for barriers to keep the water from finding it's way out. And you will sleep like a baby.the one key is to spend the time and lay out your epdm on a 2x10 .. 2-2x6 with some ply on it this will be needed to keep the rubber as smooth as possible and NEVER stretch the rubber where you are seaming. can you pull the rubber to flatten it out but don't apply the tape to a stretched section of the rubber.
 
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After the seam tape is applied you could and should apply a bead of epdm compatable caulking to the seam edge and then after that if you want to sleep like a baby you can get a cover tape to protect the seam. so if you have seam tape, caulking, and cover tape. caulking again you now have for barriers to keep the water from finding it's way out. And you will sleep like a baby.the one key is to spend the time and lay out your epdm on a 2x10 .. 2-2x6 with some ply on it this will be needed to keep the rubber as smooth as possible and NEVER stretch the rubber where you are seaming. can you pull the rubber to flatten it out but don't apply the tape to a stretched section of the rubber.
I’ll definitely do all this, thanks!
 
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I’ll definitely do all this, thanks!
The cover tape is not just some gorilla tape it is made for epdm and is some tough stuff . And by the way the statement above should have read That would then make four seams to give you piece of mind. wrinkles can be tough but they too can be worked through sometimes you may need to remove more of your finished edgings etc in order to get the rubber flattened out .
 
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Another question....if I use concrete blocks to build the walls for the bog, I’d need to stack them two high. Would just using some rebar stakes in the ground in the cavity of the blocks, along with block adhesive be enough to hold the walls once filled with gravel and water. The gravel and water would only go half way up the top block. I fear that wouldn’t work...
 
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Another question....if I use concrete blocks to build the walls for the bog, I’d need to stack them two high. Would just using some rebar stakes in the ground in the cavity of the blocks, along with block adhesive be enough to hold the walls once filled with gravel and water. The gravel and water would only go half way up the top block. I fear that wouldn’t work...
Yes, and I would add that you should also fill all the cavities with concrete after the rebar is in place. This will create a more solid wall.

I'm not sure what you mean by block adhesive, but what you should be using to build the block wall is mortar cement. You don't want to be using any type of glue or adhesive. And not concrete mix either, which has stone aggregates in it. Just mortar cement.
 
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I’m not familiar, can you explain?
A S&G filter is similar to a bog setup... squished into a 55g barrel with no plants. It has a gradation of stone sizes from large ones held off the bottom... reducing down to a grit size stone at the top. Water gets filtered through the stone and returned. In a pond your size with just goldfish ... you could probably go a month or more before you clean it. Cleaning entails pumping air down to the bottom with a small shop vac. The rushing air rises through all the stone and actually "boiles" the top grit layer releasing all the muck and mulm which goes out a waste port. It doesn't take long to clean them and you don't have to get your hands wet/dirty do so.
I have a 1000g pond with a good amount of Koi who are fed good amount every day ... ie more waste. When I installed this filter, i went from pea soup to clear in a day.
So the space required is basically the barrel itself, which you could easily hide from view with a small wall or you can set the barrel back farther as long as your pump is strong enough and the top of the barrel is above the water line of you pond (since it uses gravity to return).
Bogs do like nice... but space wise these work very well and physically remove waste from your pond

There are lots of videos showing how they work on youtube.
 
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Yes, and I would add that you should also fill all the cavities with concrete after the rebar is in place. This will create a more solid wall.

I'm not sure what you mean by block adhesive, but what you should be using to build the block wall is mortar cement. You don't want to be using any type of glue or adhesive. And not concrete mix either, which has stone aggregates in it. Just mortar cement.
depending on where
Another question....if I use concrete blocks to build the walls for the bog, I’d need to stack them two high. Would just using some rebar stakes in the ground in the cavity of the blocks, along with block adhesive be enough to hold the walls once filled with gravel and water. The gravel and water would only go half way up the top block. I fear that wouldn’t work...
you live you maybe able to get away without a foundation. in New England if you want it to last you'll need a footing under yourblocks to keep mother nature from shifting and cracking
 
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depending on where
you live you maybe able to get away without a foundation. in New England if you want it to last you'll need a footing under yourblocks to keep mother nature from shifting and cracking
I’m in Iowa. It can get below zero here in the winter. But this is only going to be 2 blocks high. I’m willing to risk heaving there. I’ll put plenty of rebar vertically as stakes, and fill the cavities. Mortar between the layers.
 
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Good point about the footing GBBUDD.
the rebar is needed horizontaly for uplift from freezing the vertical pins are lateral strength. depending on how serious this pond will be a 8 inch thick footing with 2 rebar 2 inches off the bottom would go a long way. if you don't want to go with a footing then a wood frame would probably fair better in frost heaving.
 
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the rebar is needed horizontaly for uplift from freezing the vertical pins are lateral strength. depending on how serious this pond will be a 8 inch thick footing with 2 rebar 2 inches off the bottom would go a long way. if you don't want to go with a footing then a wood frame would probably fair better in frost heaving.
You guys and your good advice......I’m running in circles! But seriously, thanks. You’re right. Iowa gets butt cold and soils do heave. I don’t want you pour footings so I guess I’ll use wood in addition to digging down some. Safe to assume I can use pressure treated timbers since I’ll have the liner inside it?
 
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Keep this in mind while we all have opinions it's your pond i remember one elderly guy not so long ago he just stacked cinder blocks 2 high and then installed the rubber i have no idea if it worked or not i gave pretty much the same advice but in the end it's your pond. i was advised when i started not to cover the entire liner inside the pond when i started. I understand why they advised not to but i myself think the benefits out weigh the negative aspects. But again thats my call. Like the raised pond you are doing now now are friends across the big pond would say you MUST have a pond 6 feet deep or more . again it's your pond your call. Concrete mortared together without a footing in new england will have a very short life in comparison. i wouldn't give it 5 years until it was cracking rebar or not but if the rebar keeps it all together it's not the concrete that keeps the water in its the rubber but it's the concrete that keeps the shape. We or i am just the guy sitting on your shoulder saying what you don't want to hear.

And honestly pouring footings is not a big deal unless you are going below frost. Now that's as much work as the entire project you were thinking of.
 
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Keep this in mind while we all have opinions it's your pond i remember one elderly guy not so long ago he just stacked cinder blocks 2 high and then installed the rubber i have no idea if it worked or not i gave pretty much the same advice but in the end it's your pond. i was advised when i started not to cover the entire liner inside the pond when i started. I understand why they advised not to but i myself think the benefits out weigh the negative aspects. But again thats my call. Like the raised pond you are doing now now are friends across the big pond would say you MUST have a pond 6 feet deep or more . again it's your pond your call. Concrete mortared together without a footing in new england will have a very short life in comparison. i wouldn't give it 5 years until it was cracking rebar or not but if the rebar keeps it all together it's not the concrete that keeps the water in its the rubber but it's the concrete that keeps the shape. We or i am just the guy sitting on your shoulder saying what you don't want to hear.

And honestly pouring footings is not a big deal unless you are going below frost. Now that's as much work as the entire project you were thinking of.
Hey, I appreciate all the advice. When I dug my pond people told me I had to have a minimum 4 ft depth or the fish would die over winter. I’m at 3-3.5 ft deep and can’t stop the dang goldies from multiplying!
I don’t wanna do footings because my lawn is 125% hard packed clay and digging the pond nearly killed me! I’m fine with wood, it’s gonna be hidden behind the shed mostly. My biggest obstacle now is how to transition to the pond. Kinda awkward as I have to turn the corner a bit from behind the shed.
 
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I’ll try the seaming.....and not sleep for a few nights. I’m thinking of ordering a kit off Pondguy.com. https://www.thepondguy.com/product/the-pond-guy-liner-seam-kit/water-gardens-fish-ponds-pond-liner-underlayment
Unless someone tells me you can buy the same stuff just labeled for roofing a whole lot cheaper!
I buy the seam tapes glues and such from roofing supplies. the rubber is the same as far as i know but the roofing has powder on it i am told was for fire resistance but it washes right off.
 
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When it comes to the liner in the bog i would leave yourself a foot extra above and beyond where the water height will be it seems a common ocurance that the bogs can BUILD UP FROM ROOTS and start wicking even just rubber in a fold can wick water up a few inches. Never cut the liner keep all you can for down the road unforseens. as far as how to make the tie in to the pond do the same get your liner over sized. If you can do the bog and falls to the pond all in one piece and the existing up to your now falls cn run up the wall to the new bog that overlap maybe enough you wouldn't need to seem.
 
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Ok, so I don’t have much liner available for seaming here. The dirt area was where the biofalls box was. If remove the rest of the rock shown that the falls spilled onto and tuck the new liner UNDER the old liner and seem as best as possible, replace the rocks and then the new falls will drop back onto those rocks again....sound reasonable? The 4x4s are the outline of where I’m putting the bog box
5D3B12C2-8396-4FAB-A1D3-D3E2B8123E5B.jpeg
957A26A8-6FB9-4895-B344-C31C5DA2F524.jpeg
 
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addy1

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tuck the new liner UNDER the old liner and seem as best as possible
What I would do is build it up a bit 10 inches or more above the pond edge. Tuck the new liner OVER the pond liner. The water will waterfall into the main pond and most likely will not leak.
 

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