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yes I have your phone number from awhile ago and will be getting my weir from you when I'm ready. i guess i was wanting to glue the top part. the part above water. it would be a shame if it would blow of and just pump the water on the ground. i do have a low water switch i will be adding somewhere.

koiguy1969 said:
no need to glue anything inside the filter...this allows for future modification. and all the pieces should fit snuggly anyways.... i have weirs for your waterfall...
https://www.gardenpondforum.com/waterfall-weirs-diy-filters-t5243.html
make it look like this
https://www.gardenpondforum.com/gallery/index.php?n=175
 
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ok new question. I have 30X20 liner. right now I'm planning to build a 18x10x3 ft pond now. i found this equation for deciding the size of liner you need.

Length of liner required = Max. length of pond + (2 x max. depth of pond) + min. 2 feet overlap
Width of liner required = Max. width of pond + (2 x max. depth of pond) + min. 2 feet overlap

so mine works out
length 18+(2X3)+2 = 26
width 10+(2X3)+2=18
so i have some left over on both sides. i would like to go another ft deeper. but I'm worried about the overlap.

the new calculations would be
length 18+(2X4)+2 = 28
width 10+(2X4)+2=20

this would also change my pond size from 3200GL to 4150GL. with out making the surface area bigger. i think that would help with evaporation. and i know the deeper pond would be better all around from temp changes and predators. guess I'm just worried about the overlap. first pond you know :confused: :fish: please any advice would be appreciated.
 
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SALT???

i keep salt in my aquariums all the time and the fish do great. never had any disease or problems. i would like to add salt to my pond as well. but i have heard some conflicting advice on that. so i found this Salinity Calculator and it says i need about 34LBS of salt for a 4100 gallon pond to get a salinity level of about .1%. is that a good level to a pond with plants. i know plants cant handle as much so maybe .05% or .2%. i don't know what level would be good to try to achieve.

it also says "For example, if you enter Gallons and then go to Amount, the % Salinity will be calculated or if you enter Gallons and then % Salinity, the Amount will be calculated. *(note 0.1 = 10%)"

thanks for the help everyone.
 
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Never buy a liner untilyou dig the pond.
I never use a salt except when needed in my QT.
 
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There is no need to have salt in there unless needed. Think of salt like an antibiotic to be used only when needed. Because if your pond is continually salted, the bugs and bad stuff will be accustomed to living in the salty environment and then will prove useless when you do need it's effects.
 
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ok no salt. and i think im over thinking the overhang for the liner. the pond will be made out of cinder blocks that are only 8in thick so 1ft of overhang will be plenty and once i get the capstones in place i will trim off whats left. more digging ahead of me now. i dug for about 1.5 hours last night after work and may do the same tonight.
 
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I got the pump in and got the plumbing done to attach the 2in flex PVC to the 1.5in output. more than I thought. I still need to get the priming pot from DoDad so that will go on the input side.
 

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i also got my AV-50 air pump in. I'm planning to put it about 10 ft away from the pond in a sprinkler box enclosure or a fake rock thing. running 3/4in hose to the splitter in the picture then normal air hose to each air stone. I'm thinking one or two air stones or disks in the filter and two in the pond itself. one of which will be a 5in air disk on top of the BD you can see that in my pictures as well. i secured it in place with 4 8in zip ties. the air hose that feeds it will be wrapped around the 2in flex pipe coming from the BD to the pump. i also got 3 20X30X1in Flanders cut to fit furnace filters. these will go on top of the light grid for my stock tank filter.
 

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pond flooded today again. :frown:

but i got some work done on the saddle support pieces to hold the swirlier off the bottom of the stock tank. not as nice as MikeyToo's but they will work. im planning to glue them to the swirlier to hold them in place this will be the only glued parts in the filter. not to make it watertight but to keep it in place.

the way things sit now the light grid is about 5 in off the bottom of the stock tank. i could change things and make it about 4in from the bottom. i would prefer this as it would leave more room for the filter media. but i don't want to inhibit the swirlier action either. So some advice would be great. leave it at 5in or lower it to 4in .
 

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nice job on strapping the diffuser to the top of the BD. I would spray paint that white fitting with krylon plastic paint or head over to the ABS section and get a black one. That white piece in the water will make you crazy, trust me. I confess I love your saddle support pieces. What did you use to cut 'em out exactly? A grinder? Nicely done.

So, basically you are saying that you are not going to lay your grid on that low lip of the stock tank and you're going to go lower. Honestly, there's nothing wrong with that idea at all. I wouldn't go lower than 5", however, as you really want to allow for space so that vortex motion of the water. If you squeeze that space too small, you might inhibit that from happening. Plus, you want to give a big enough space to collect your detrius too, otherwise you may find it forcing itself up into your media and you needing to do more flushing. I think 4" is too short, but you'll likely be fine with 5-6".

Think of both those spaces as being equally important. Yes, having as much media in there is important, but that open lower space is just as important as that's the spot you need to flush. You want the functionality of that space to really work well and not be cramped so as to inhibit proper action.
 
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to cut out the saddle support pieces i used a 2in drum sander. then just sandpaper to smooth everything out. their made out of 2in PVC. i will stick with the 5in space for the vortex. when i get home tonight I'll cut those support pieces and attach them to the light grid. then i can cut to fit the filter pads. do you think the 1in will be enough or should i go with 2 layers for 2in total thickness?
 
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I've never used these filter pads or seen them up close, so I can't comment on what thickness to use. Koiguy is the resident expert on these filter pads, so he is your best bet on an answer.

matala, for example is fairly thick--and most folks use two different colors one on top of another (the black and green is the most common). But I don't know what the density is on these filter pads is, which is why I asked koiguy where they are sold so I could see them up close. It doesn't appear my local home depot has them, however.
 

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