This is what I did and why I did it. WARNING long read.

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As some of you know I "was" a Prefab user, forgive me I have learned the error of my ways. (the hard way).

In the beginning this is what I started with
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the biggest problem was a complete freeze over that would kill fish and plants.
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So I decided to go a bit larger and deeper, much deeper.

after dealing with spring rains and the hole filling up with water every night, playing in the mud is without a better work sucks...
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that little square knob lower center is a 20 ton rail jack that is 3' 6" tall. pump down, work repeat. for at least 8-10hrs a day.
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at this point I still needed to get at least 10 more inches deeper. it took a while but finally got to the bottom of it. among many of my concerns were the massive boulders needed to be stabilized from moving inwards. this was done by pouring a 10" thick concrete wall under them.

This dig came with its problem and did I ever have them. at one point it took over a week to under mine a rock that ended being a boulder. getting it out of the hole took another 6 hrs. to give you some perspective that S.O.B. is over 3' tall and 5' wide and it took my lil tractor everything it had just to drag it on flat ground.
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here it shows part of the concrete and the return pipes. the one pipe with the sweep is direct return to the pond and the one behind goes up to the bottom of the upper waterfall. each return pipe can be independently controlled from the pump pit. all return pipes are 1-1/2"
another view of the stabilizing wall.
20220521_114023.jpg
and the 2 return pipes.

I don't have any photos of the concrete pour, I did the mixing my self with 3/4 stone, sand and Portland. standard 1,2,3, mix. the bast I could get out of my little electric mixer was 2 1/2 5gal pails. don't know about you but a single full 5gal pail of concrete is heavy as all get out. I ended up doing 1/2 buckets 2 at a time for balance in and out of the hole. it seemed like forever to complete this part of the build.

At this point I installed 3 bottom drains, left corner, center, right corner.
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It was at this point I posted a desperate cry for help with installing a liner that broke my budget. I never installed, cut or mended a liner before. for those who have posted "HOW TO" threads and people I have chatted with I can NOT thank enough to get me beyond this point. I will be forever indebted to you.

One thing I did NOT do is vacuum test the return lines, the were all pressure tested at 15lbs for 1hr and passed but with the "CHEEP" pipes I used they are subject to cavitating the pipe before the fitting that might cause a leak or air getting in the line before the pump. All pipe are built under the pond to lessen the chance of freezing. at a depth of 40-48" under sand and crushed stone.

The 3 drains run together into a 2" pvc pipe that runs straight out the back wall to a street elbow that goes to the bottom of the bio filter and the main pump.

the pump pit kick my behind more than the pond. I just did not have the energy, will power or stamina to dig out another boulder, so it was built a little smaller than I needed and everything I did to save flow loss in the pond was lost in the pump pit and I still ended up with more water flow than I needed.
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there is a lot more going on here than you can see. the pit is 4' deep solid filled concrete blocks and bottom. by my feet are 2- 2" returns 1 from the pond drains and 1 from the bio filter. Just above the pump screener and to the right are the 2 - 1'1/2" returns, the one you can see is directly to the left is the pond return and the one that is directly under the coupler is to the waterfall both have ball valves to regulate flow rate to my choosing. most of the time the pond return is full wide open and the upper waterfall is cut back to slightly more than half.

The fill and testing
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here is where I just had to wait. fill, watch the liner, if the wicking on the liner was over a 1/2" I had a leak some were... wait till it stopped find it, fix it, try again. AND because it was my first time I had to cut the whole right corner out and start again. surprisingly every fitting through the liner did not leak, just my bad job at doing seams.

but you can't say I'm not persistent.
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after all said and done I was thinking ??? maybe 900 gals.... Nope. had to clean out my shorts when I dumped 3,250 gals in the pond.

I have a shallow well. so I ended up borrowing a 275gal water holding tank and a lil generator and pumped water out of a pond loaded with plant life.

I treated the pond with 2gal of pure bleach tested daily to get the lowest reading and then hit it with 4 gals of ammonia. this was to jump start the bio filter before life was added. tested daily till no reading and then waited 4 more days before adding my fish that were in a crowded 75gal fish tank. the were beyond happy for there new home.

This spring is phase 2.... hopefully no boulders but I'm not counting on it.

Forgot to mention with that freezing dip we had we hit a whooping 2.7 degrees here and the lowest temp on the pond was 32.8 no freezing pipe no water stoppages.
20221227_150215_Moment.jpg
Water is flowing under the ice buildup on the upper waterfall.
 
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addy1

water gardener / gold fish and shubunkins
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Wow nice! Great descriptions of your work.
 
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took my lil tractor everything it had just to drag it on flat ground.
one hell of a boulder for a little tractor to pull a definite testament to the brand

I'd consider a sump pump in your pump housing area so incase mother nature send a lot of rain your way your protected

Though i did not start with preforms . My original build had simple plans, but do to starting excavating in December. created issues and though i have rocky soil i only had one boulder such as yours but pulling it up 6 feet was not an option. i dug a deeper hole next to the boulder and rolled it in. So I can appreciate your hard work as i also had the side walls start to fail and undermine the patio so concrete walls were needed as well.

Now you can sit back and enjoy it hopefully. Just don't rub elbows with me as I'm constantly adding to it nice work.
 
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Wow, what a project. Well done. I can’t believe that tractor pulled that boulder out of your hole. It must be at least 3,000 lbs. looks almost as big as the tractor.
 
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Thank You all for the kind words. There are many here I'm inspired by, Ideas, back knowledge, building ideas and so-forth.
@combatwombat the tractor could not pull the boulder out of the hole. I had to wrap 1" nylon rope over the top of the rock and roll it a few feet at a time, using 2 - 20ton jacks to hold the rock in place so I could reset the rope and do it again.

The tractor weight is close to 900lbs and with the mower deck on the front it's well over 1,100lbs. pulling that rock alone would lift the front of the tractor off the ground loosing the all-wheeled traction. yeah I really love that monster of a machine all wheeled drive, 74" mower deck and a 50" power angle snow blade.
 
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Wow, what a great job! You probably already checked this but is there any chance ground water can percolate up into your pump pit?
 
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@Stephen Noble @GBBUDD yes ground water infiltration was a great concern, if you look at photo #7 and expand it you see a tiny white nub between the shovel and pry bar these and drains built in behind the walls to relive and hydraulic water pressure that are incorporated into the blind ditch. in the beginning of the build process I made a 6" deep trough and filled it with clean 3/4 stone aka (blind ditch) before any underlayment was installed that runs beyond the whole length of the complete project. pond, wet land filter and more. so any water pressure would be relived and carried out away before it could do any harm. the pump pit is insulated and covered to prevent weather exposure, (zone 6a+) the water you see in the photo is sweet that condensates off the pipe network. I was in a lazy spell and did not clean out the build up. yes I do have a constant run submersible pump on stand by if the need were to arise.
Thank you.
 

Jhn

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Very nice looking pond you should be proud and as cw said you have an engineers mind or a mind for creative problem solving.
 
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no freezing pipe no water stoppages.
if the water is flowing you shouldn't have to worry about pipes freezing . but if you do shut them down make sure to open up the system give ice somewhere to go, open ball vales etc and drain the pump.

Give the fish a opening in the ice
 
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if the water is flowing you shouldn't have to worry about pipes freezing . but if you do shut them down make sure to open up the system give ice somewhere to go, open ball vales etc and drain the pump.

Give the fish a opening in the ice
you are correct. my old system had all the plumbing at or above ground, so with the new set up by putting my plumbing at least 36" below grade gives me time to figure out how to keep an opening in the pond. I have on stand-by a submersible pump and a "cheep" air pump that can run a few small air stones. one luxury I did spend a little on was a WiFi thermometer that I can check on my phone, the other plus for this device is it stores temp a history that can be viewed by 1hr, 6hrs, day, week, 1 month, 3 months, and year. for those who would like to know more about it I'll post at the bottom. I have often experienced power outages. some times lasting a day or two. and also experienced it out for over a week. I am not built for the cold weather and it seems the older I get the colder so running out in freezing temps to keep the ice open was one of my hurdles I tried to eliminate. my pump runs all the time and so far has done a good job by keeping ice at bay.



 
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I have often experienced power outages. some times lasting a day or two
OTHER THAN A GENRAC GENERATOR i have opted for a solar panel and water pump that was 2000 gph
 
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OTHER THAN A GENRAC GENERATOR i have opted for a solar panel and water pump that was 2000 gph
I have a 20kw Kohler on standby 24-7, not enough direct sun light to have solar, just not cost effective. everything we do still has a failure rate, at best we can do is to limit the down time.
 

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