Waterfall blade/filter material ?


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The first one is my present pond about 5ft x 3ft the other is the one I’m building is 6ft6 x4ft6 x 4ft8 at one end I’m putting the blade like in the 3rd pic on the end that is higher the blade will be about 10” above the water level sorry for confusing you I’m new at this
hi @Tr1951terry, well done on such a neat build, is the filter/pump in the original pond what you will be using for the new pond? is it an all in one pump/filter/uv ? i think you may need more filtration if that is so, the blade can be positioned anywhere you like that is pleasing to you and place the pump towards the opposite end of the blade. i think @GBBUDD posted a short video that showed what type of flow was achieved with different sized pumps i will try and find it or hopefully @GBBUDD will point it out, cheers mark
 
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Yeh I’ve always been ok building wood stuff I wanted a bit bigger pond I’m gonna buy a bigger filter / with uv my oase 1500 won’t be strong enuff for my new pond plus to power the blade from the information I’ve got so I was thinking something like an oase 4 or 5000 or bigger plus I can put my 1500 in to give it extra filtration I’m learning that’s why I joined this forum to get advice My other hobby
 

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Yeh I’ve always been ok building wood stuff I wanted a bit bigger pond I’m gonna buy a bigger filter / with uv my oase 1500 won’t be strong enuff for my new pond plus to power the blade from the information I’ve got so I was thinking something like an oase 4 or 5000 or bigger plus I can put my 1500 in to give it extra filtration I’m learning that’s why I joined this forum to get advice My other hobby
 
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hi @Tr1951terry, .
it will give you an idea of what pump each provides regarding flow over the edge of your blade. hope this helps, cheers mark dont forget these pumps are US gph you will need to convert to UK lph which you can do on google
 
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hi @Tr1951terry, .
it will give you an idea of what pump each provides regarding flow over the edge of your blade. hope this helps, cheers mark dont forget these pumps are US gph you will need to convert to UK lph which you can do on google
Thanks mark I’ll convert it and decide my blade comes today so I can do a dummy run on my small pond with my present filter/pump an see how it goes I’ve done a volume calculator and my new pond will be about 1500 litre it’s coming along nicely
 

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It appears your corners are not staggered? 1500 is not a ton of pressure but it is enough to create problems.

I also just noticed that you have a space at the bottom, it is not advisable to try to span that with liner. if your placing fabric then liner. I would use heavier fabric and double it up and make sure not to just have a small over lap I'd have a foot and a half where the seam s away from that space. Ultimately you should google scribing and infill that area.
 
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It appears your corners are not staggered? 1500 is not a ton of pressure but it is enough to create problems.

I also just noticed that you have a space at the bottom, it is not advisable to try to span that with liner. if your placing fabric then liner. I would use heavier fabric and double it up and make sure not to just have a small over lap I'd have a foot and a half where the seam s away from that space. Ultimately you should google scribing and infill that area.
The corners have 6” bolts through and the wood has 5” screws into the row underneath I must admit this is new to me
 
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The corners have 6” bolts through and the wood has 5” screws into the row underneath I must admit this is new to me
I am havin several layers of underlay down plus that gap is because it’s resting on pieces of decking and it’s not long enough
 
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You’ve got me thinking now about taking it apart and redoing it with staggered corners I joined this forum for advice as this is new to me I appreciate any advice
staggering/ alternating the row corners is the best way as it's the corner expansion that is worse than bowing (and that can happen too. Some above ground ponds have buttresses just to stop that ).

smilie-masked-both-directions2.gif
 
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staggering/ alternating the row corners is the best way as it's the corner expansion that is worse than bowing (and that can happen too. Some above ground ponds have buttresses just to stop that ).

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Thankyou I’ve made my mind up I’m taking it apart and starting again following yours and others advice I really appreciate it sooner do it right
 
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2.5 inches may be enough to do the job but once I got some money in fish and they become family I'd rather not chance it . If you have everything screwed and bolted then and yes easy for me to say but cut your losses and do it right.

Scribing is easy once you know the trick. Let's say you have a 2 inch space you need to mimic take a 2x4 and lift it up so it it level so it can latter have the 4x4 sit on it latter. So if you have to fill 2 " then you'll want to cut off a 1 1/2" so cut a block that's that size run that along the ground while drawing onto the 2x
 

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The bottom row you should drill out for a piece of rebar so you can drive it into the ground to keep the area stable . If the water gets under that space that was left it will lift the whole thing the pressures are side to side but it will take path of least resistance.. if your not up to scribing. You can always shim it with 3/4 5/4 what ever you can and then slip cedar shingles in from both sides and put the rebar throw it as welll
 
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2.5 inches may be enough to do the job but once I got some money in fish and they become family I'd rather not chance it . If you have everything screwed and bolted then and yes easy for me to say but cut your losses and do it right.

Scribing is easy once you know the trick. Let's say you have a 2 inch space you need to mimic take a 2x4 and lift it up so it it level so it can latter have the 4x4 sit on it latter. So if you have to fill 2 " then you'll want to cut off a 1 1/2" so cut a block that's that size run that along the ground while drawing onto the 2x
I really appreciate urs an others advice I’ve been taking it apart and start again I’m 70 and retired so it’s not an issue I’d sooner do it properly like I said I’ve built a small pond which is fine but as my fish are growing I wanted a bigger one I won’t let it beat me that’s my small pond
 

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2.5 inches may be enough to do the job but once I got some money in fish and they become family I'd rather not chance it . If you have everything screwed and bolted then and yes easy for me to say but cut your losses and do it right.

Scribing is easy once you know the trick. Let's say you have a 2 inch space you need to mimic take a 2x4 and lift it up so it it level so it can latter have the 4x4 sit on it latter. So if you have to fill 2 " then you'll want to cut off a 1 1/2" so cut a block that's that size run that along the ground while drawing onto the 2x
I have taken it apart I am going to redone it with staggered corners like this yes ?
 

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Good choice you won't be sorry . Having the 6 inch in horizontal is far stronger then is the 4 inch. You will need to secure one layer to the other more often I'd say every foot going with the 4 inch and even then there's no guarantee of the 4 inch bowing in time . 6 inch on the other hand you probably saw yourself at the lumber yard the 4x4 were probably not as straight as were there 6x4. Now your pond is about 12feet ? With the staggered beams how are you securing on tier to the other? With 4x6 and the six is in height. Your 6 inch screws or bolts I believe you mentioned are to small. Land Scape nails/pins and or screws of a minimum of 8 inch are needed to secure from one row to the lower. The 6 inch can be used with a predrilled hole slightly larger then the shank and a second hole for the head of the bolt with a washer to be recessed approximately 1 inch wide. Now if you don't want to see these bolt heads make the the hole an inch or 1 1/4" to recess them and plug with some glue and a dowel.
There are many videos on YouTube of people building there own I'd surf through them you'll know when someone knows what there doing. Here's a quick one I found
.

Simple build isn't it?
If you go down to a 8 foot pond it's a lot easier a lot less pressure. But it is less rewarding and harder to keep stable.fish and water quality wise
 
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Good choice you won't be sorry . Having the 6 inch in horizontal is far stronger then is the 4 inch. You will need to secure one layer to the other more often I'd say every foot going with the 4 inch and even then there's no guarantee of the 4 inch bowing in time . 6 inch on the other hand you probably saw yourself at the lumber yard the 4x4 were probably not as straight as were there 6x4. Now your pond is about 12feet ? With the staggered beams how are you securing on tier to the other? With 4x6 and the six is in height. Your 6 inch screws or bolts I believe you mentioned are to small. Land Scape nails/pins and or screws of a minimum of 8 inch are needed to secure from one row to the lower. The 6 inch can be used with a predrilled hole slightly larger then the shank and a second hole for the head of the bolt with a washer to be recessed approximately 1 inch wide. Now if you don't want to see these bolt heads make the the hole an inch or 1 1/4" to recess them and plug with some glue and a dowel.
There are many videos on YouTube of people building there own I'd surf through them you'll know when someone knows what there doing. Here's a quick one I found
.

Simple build isn't it?
If you go down to a 8 foot pond it's a lot easier a lot less pressure. But it is less rewarding and harder to keep stable.fish and water quality wise
My pond is 6ft 6” x 4ft 6” the timber is 3an half inch x 2an half inch an I’m using 6” screw bolts down through the corners and thr the sides at the corners recessed That go nearly through the wood and 5” screws in the tier sides
 

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