Added Fish To New Pond, Now What.....


Meyer Jordan

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Yes, but remember to add it slowly. It should take a few days to 'safely' raise the dKH to 150.
Always test the water immediately before any remaining dosages. This will tell you if you are dosing too much. Remember, you are striving to increase the dKH no more than 25 dKH per day.
Major, Major typo on my part. The above should read "you are striving to increase the dKH no more than 25 ppm per day.
So sorry. Getting too old for multi-tasking.
 
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That green is algae, and it is consuming the ammonia that is available.
That's a good thing.
I'm going to ask eventually, chicken or egg?
-need green water to eat ammonia
-but green water considered ugly

is the end goal to have clear water which still cleans ammonia?

this Padawan is listening intently...
 
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just read on the interweb, that surface area exposed to direct sun could be an issue.Since I have no plants, and the recommendation was 60-70 coverage, I'm going to make some faux Lilly pads out of foam as recommended by some folks here.

with the shade and limited ammonia waste, will the water begin clearing?
 
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I'm going to ask eventually, chicken or egg?
-need green water to eat ammonia
-but green water considered ugly

is the end goal to have clear water which still cleans ammonia?

this Padawan is listening intently...
Actually, you want bacteria to consume the majority of ammonia.:)

Algae is there as a "safety valve" that consumes excess ammonia, as the level of ammonia is constantly fluctuating in healthy ponds. As your pond matures, you'll see green water less frequently, usually only when the pond comes out of colder winter temperatures, until the bacteria level stabilizes again.

.
 

Meyer Jordan

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Not to usurp @MitchM , but maybe I can shed some light on this subject.
All algae assimilates Ammonia (and Nitrate). It is just the natural order of things that, in a new pond, planktonic algae is the first to colonize and will assimilate the Ammonia until the attached algae (periphyton) and nitrifying bacteria can become established. The bulk of the nitrification, however, is accomplished by these nitrifying bacteria. They are much more efficient in performing this task. Another benefit of algae is that it provides the greater percentage of Oxygen that is available in a pond.
It may be considered ugly by some, but it is a necessary part of the aquatic food chain and a major player in the biochemical balance of any aquatic ecosystem.
 
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Don't know how to do the 'quote a part of a previous post', have tried several times, but to no avail. Anyway, the OP asked in an earlier post about the white spheres amongst the netting tubes, and the answer came back as 'snail eggs'. Do American snails lay their eggs individually then? All varieties of English pond snails lay them in long jelly sausage shapes containing multiple embryos. Just curious. My thoughts were fish eggs to be honest.
 
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Not to usurp @MitchM , but maybe I can shed some light on this subject.
All algae assimilates Ammonia (and Nitrate). It is just the natural order of things that, in a new pond, planktonic algae is the first to colonize and will assimilate the Ammonia until the attached algae (periphyton) and nitrifying bacteria can become established. The bulk of the nitrification, however, is accomplished by these nitrifying bacteria. They are much more efficient in performing this task. Another benefit of algae is that it provides the greater percentage of Oxygen that is available in a pond.
It may be considered ugly by some, but it is a necessary part of the aquatic food chain and a major player in the biochemical balance of any aquatic ecosystem.
haha, I guess ugly is in the eye of the beholder, some of you may recall me posting a picture of a Chinese koi pond with dark pea soup water that had likely been that way for 500 years. I'll actually be back in Shanghai and Tokyo next week and interested in comparing the differences in the pond cultures there. I wish I didn't have to leave, but my wife will monitor the water next week and the following week my in-laws. Ironically, we all received our undergrads in some form of chemistry....

I just checked the water again and the KH is creeping higher to about 60ppm. Added another 1/3 cup of baking soda and will repeat in 30 mins. Is there a saturation level where I should expect the KH to jump up? If so, I'll need to check the water between each dose. Glad my chemistry background is becoming useful again. I actually understand most of the college papers I've been reading....
 
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forgot I had these playground tiles in the basement, not pretty, but they should perform as shade I'm looking for to slow the algae blooms
WP_20170706_20_05_02_Pro.jpg


I love the green of the algae growing on the falls, I hear its the good stuff and should not be removed
WP_20170706_20_05_16_Pro.jpg
 

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Algae is protecting your fish .Remove some so it will not cause waterfall t over flow .
 
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forgot I had these playground tiles in the basement, not pretty, but they should perform as shade I'm looking for to slow the algae blooms
View attachment 101797

I love the green of the algae growing on the falls, I hear its the good stuff and should not be removed
View attachment 101798
Those tiles are covering about 50% of the pond surface area where gas exchange takes place.
If you do have an aerator, I would have that going as well.
 

Meyer Jordan

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Don't know how to do the 'quote a part of a previous post', have tried several times, but to no avail. Anyway, the OP asked in an earlier post about the white spheres amongst the netting tubes, and the answer came back as 'snail eggs'. Do American snails lay their eggs individually then? All varieties of English pond snails lay them in long jelly sausage shapes containing multiple embryos. Just curious. My thoughts were fish eggs to be honest.
Nerite snail eggs-

A quite common freshwater aquarium snail.
 

Meyer Jordan

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If so, I'll need to check the water between each dose.
As I mentioned in post #84-
Testing should be done between dosings.
and in Post #87
Monitor the dKH.
and again in Post #100
Always test the water immediately before any remaining dosages.
I don't know how much more I can emphasize the need to monitor the rising dKH level. This will affect pH and a too sudden large increase in pH could be quite dangerous for the fish.
 
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KH is at 140ish, GH steady at 150 and ammonia still zero
however pH is a little basic at 7.8
going to check again tomorrow morning

also got rid of two tiles to allow for improved aeration
 

Meyer Jordan

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KH is at 140ish, GH steady at 150 and ammonia still zero
however pH is a little basic at 7.8
going to check again tomorrow morning

also got rid of two tiles to allow for improved aeration
Those are great levels. Cease applying the baking soda as you are where you want to be.
 
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KH is at 140ish, GH steady at 150 and ammonia still zero
however pH is a little basic at 7.8
going to check again tomorrow morning

also got rid of two tiles to allow for improved aeration
With the algae now present, you ammonia levels will continue to read zero.
Now it's a matter of time for your pond to mature and balance out.
The thing to watch for next is too much algae. Keep a watch on algae growth rate and remove the excess algae as you can. Too much growth means that it interferes with swimming room, water movement and clogging of pump intakes.
Weekly measurements of KH should be good for a while.

How is that fish doing that was showing signs of poor health?

.
 
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With the algae now present, you ammonia levels will continue to read zero.
Now it's a matter of time for your pond to mature and balance out.
The thing to watch for next is too much algae. Keep a watch on algae growth rate and remove the excess algae as you can. Too much growth means that it interferes with swimming room, water movement and clogging of pump intakes.
Weekly measurements of KH should be good for a while.

How is that fish doing that was showing signs of poor health?

.
no change to fish, she seems to just like being at the top of the water column and swims down when approached. Maybe a swim bladder type problem?
WP_20170708_08_01_47_Pro.jpg
 
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Those are great levels. Cease applying the baking soda as you are where you want to be.
great, leaving water murky for now, we'll cross that bridge later. I'm not planning to feed them anytime soon as there are plenty of bug activity
 
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no change to fish, she seems to just like being at the top of the water column and swims down when approached. Maybe a swim bladder type problem?
View attachment 101825
No swim bladder problem.
The environment that the fish lives in has gone through a number of changes to it's chemistry; KH, ammonia, PH plus the physical change of temperature. The fish is still stressed and retreats down out of sight for safety.
The pond is the best place for him/her now.
 

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