Added Fish To New Pond, Now What.....

[EricV]

That is to stabilize the KH (Alkalinity) at an optimum level. KH buffers pH.

It can slowly raise your pH by buffering it, but you might also want to hold off as alkalinity increases the toxicity of ammonia. Did you order a KH/GH test kit? Knowing the KH would help us understand if you just have acidic water or if your KH is so low you are risking a precipitous decline in pH.

 

[qclabrat]

It's a new pond, but there is a pressurized filter with mature media being used.

yes, using the media from the garage overwinter filters with the Laguna canister

 

[qclabrat]

Goldfish will eventually feed off of the periphyton layer (green fuzzy layer that will cover all submerged surfaces) that develops, plus bugs that enter into the pond. It's a matter of how available those items are relative to how many fish you have. You can still feed the goldfish, but keep in mind that whatever food you put into the pond must eventually be removed otherwise the nutrient level will build up and nuisance algae will eventually appear.

Yes, that product you pictured is fine.

we certainly have no shortage of bugs this year given the mild winter we just had. My wife hates bugs and when I told her that the pond i was putting in would help with the bug over population, she seemed a lot more keen on this project. Jedi mind trick success

 

[qclabrat]

It can slowly raise your pH by buffering it, but you might also want to hold off as alkalinity increases the toxicity of ammonia. Did you order a KH/GH test kit? Knowing the KH would help us understand if you just have acidic water or if your KH is so low you are risking a precipitous decline in pH.

I currently have the tetra strips which also checks for kH, it was low yesterday but will report on the numbers tonight

 

[addy1]

My wife hates bugs and when I told her that the pond i was putting in would help with the bug over population,

It does help, our overload of black crickets, flies, etc have gone way down since I put in the pond.

 

[qclabrat]

It can slowly raise your pH by buffering it, but you might also want to hold off as alkalinity increases the toxicity of ammonia. Did you order a KH/GH test kit? Knowing the KH would help us understand if you just have acidic water or if your KH is so low you are risking a precipitous decline in pH.

kH is 40 and gH is 75
nitrites zero and pH still 6.8
water temp about 80F, it got detached so guessing a bit
bad thing is that ammonia now about 0.4

adding the nitrogen sponge product now
have not fed fish today

also have nitrifying bacteria on hand, should I use them?

Goldfish will eventually feed off of the periphyton layer (green fuzzy layer that will cover all submerged surfaces) that develops, plus bugs that enter into the pond. It's a matter of how available those items are relative to how many fish you have. You can still feed the goldfish, but keep in mind that whatever food you put into the pond must eventually be removed otherwise the nutrient level will build up and nuisance algae will eventually appear.

Yes, that product you pictured is fine.

 

[Mmathis]

KH (carbonate hardness) is low. If I'm not mistaken, you want it to be greater than 80, but around 120-ish is even better. KH buffers the pH to keep it in balance (prevents sudden pH swings -- it's the sudden, wide changes in pH that are harmful to fish). You can add baking soda, but the oyster shells take a long time to dissolve, so are better for long-term control.

Maybe not the best article, but short & sweet and I found it quickly. Most of us add something like the crushed oyster shells (calcium carbonate) into the water flow to help increase the KH. http://www.watersedge.com/greenwater.html

 

[qclabrat]

KH (carbonate hardness) is low. If I'm not mistaken, you want it to be greater than 80, but around 120-ish is even better. KH buffers the pH to keep it in balance (prevents sudden pH swings -- it's the sudden, wide changes in pH that are harmful to fish). You can add baking soda, but the oyster shells take a long time to dissolve, so are better for long-term control.

Maybe not the best article, but short & sweet and I found it quickly. Most of us add something like the crushed oyster shells (calcium carbonate) into the water flow to help increase the KH. http://www.watersedge.com/greenwater.html

do you need to take the shells out after the desired kH is achieved?

 

[addy1]

do you need to take the shells out after the desired kH is achieved?

I dumped a bunch of bags (a few hundred pounds) into my bog years ago. Our water is very soft and very low ph. By putting the shells in and leaving them our ph has been sitting around 7.6 and the hardness in the 100 range.

 

[MitchM]

...

also have nitrifying bacteria on hand, should I use them?

It depends whether the bacteria are still alive, otherwise you'll just be adding more dead organic matter which you don't want to do.
What is the product and is there an expiry date?

 

[qclabrat]

It depends whether the bacteria are still alive, otherwise you'll just be adding more dead organic matter which you don't want to do.
What is the product and is there an expiry date?

Aquascape beneficial bacteria the dry typ and a liquid variey from TopFin

 

[MitchM]

I would not add those products. Your canister filter will do for now.
I'm expecting that you will see an increased level of ammonia for a short time but it should not reach dangerous levels. Keep posting updates.
On a scale of 1 - 10, how dirty was the media in your canister filter?

 

[qclabrat]

product expiry is in 2020

 

[qclabrat]

I would not add those products. Your canister filter will do for now.
I'm expecting that you will see an increased level of ammonia for a short time but it should not reach dangerous levels. Keep posting updates.
On a scale of 1 - 10, how dirty was the media in your canister filter?

you mean from the over wintering?

 

[MitchM]

If you opened the canister filter now, how loaded with collected detritus or "dirty" would you consider it to be?
You should have a sufficient SSA (Specific Surface Area) in the canister filter to handle your present fish load, so I'm wondering if the canister filter contains an excess amount of decaying organic matter that is contributing to the rise in the ammonia level.

And to clarify, you are not performing any water changes, correct?

.