DIY Stock Tank Filter

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yes, i have a light grid below so that it supports the strapping, and then I have a grid on top to weigh down the strapping so it doesn't float up. I don't use plants in my filter, but you could if that's what you wanted to do. You just need to make sure to prevent them getting sucked up into the pipes. For me, that fact is just too much of a headache to worry about. You could just keep plants in your pond, which would offer you the same level of extra filtering.
 

koiguy1969

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plants in pond offering the same level of extra filtering...i gotta disagree on that point,, when the water falls back into your pond its dilluted when the plants are in the filter the water flows across and thru the root system and the roots pick up huge amounts of fines also.......way more effective .
 
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I'll give it to you koiguy.

I'm still not a fan of plants in a filter. When the crud gets on the roots, I ain't interested in sitting there shaking off plants to rid them of what has clung to 'em. I ain't interested in having plants caught up in my media, possibly into my pipes, and I'm not interested in removing plants every time I want to clean out my filter media either. I'm sure you could put em in one of your plant containment thingees to make it easier.

I rarely comment on plant matters or posts. It's just not my expertise and I'm just not that into them. In my case, I believe they are more of a hassle then they are worth. I've had them for years, rush, lilies, marginals, etc. With my new pond this is the first year I haven't had them, and I've been happy not to have to clip yellowing leaves. My water quality is has been no different without the plants. And with the amount of aeration I have from my bottom drains in my pond at the moment, I've got plenty of oxygen happening.

Don't get me wrong, I admire a beautiful lily in the pond and always waited expectently for them to open--but I'm just tired of clipping, pruning, etc.

But I encourage anyone who wants plants to have them and put them wherever they please.
 
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just asking because i want to conceal the open stock tank and make it have a more natural look. I guess it depends on personal preference. any extra free filtration cant hurt. Thanks guys.
 
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I am very new to this pod thing but when building my skippy filter I was told not to cover top and to put plants in . also to never clean it out . I do remove leaves from top but that is it. too new to find out if this is wrong here is my 150 gal rubbermaid stock tank
pond015.jpg
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addy1

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Not sure about the never clean it out, but the plants look great.

They do get full of junk, you just don't want to kill off the good bacteria when you flush them
 

brandonsdad02

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I know its late to chime in on this thread. If you Google skippy filter there is a site that shows the step by step build for these as well as all the pieces cut for the plumbing. That's where I first learned about the skippy filters and how to build them. They do mention never cleaning them and putting plants in them. I have plants in mine and have never had to do anything to them except take out the water lettuce when too much of it gets growing in my. They don't mention anything about a waste drain and I have never cleaned my filter at all.
 

koiguy1969

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the flush valve is an improvement that most of us have incorperated into our filters for easy cleaning and it makes small waterchanges easier as well!...theres no question that a clean filter is a more efficient filter. so where as it may not be a neccessuty its a plus!!
 

brandonsdad02

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How could I put one in mine when it sits on the ground and the drain plug is facing away from my pond. Others have said to put on the opposite side of the drain plug, if I do that my flush valve will be facing my pond. Could I just put a flush valve where the drain plug is?
 

koiguy1969

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mine is located inground in my waterfall mound...the flush valve assembly located opposite side of the original drain plug...the original plug wont be as efficient because they just arent all that big.the bigger the better it creates more suction as it drains due to the faster flow. but it should help.a shower drain and 2" piping and ballvalve are the norm.
 
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I use P&L Roofing and Flashing Sealant. It's in the caulk section of HD/Lowes. It's black, waterproof and fish safe. Around $4 for a large caulk tube.

I use 3M Marine grade 5200 polyeurethane adhesive. I mentioned in another post that HDPE plastic is very difficult to glue anything to, There aren't any adhesives that are really designed for this type of plastic, that is why this type of plastic is prized (it can be used to hold lots of volatile and caustic substances).

I went with the 3M 5200 marine adhesive because it was the only one that I found that stated that it was recommended for continual submersion in water. Look at Jamestown Distributors to buy this, they are the cheapest source. Takes days for it to set up, but is really good. It is considered permanent, but that is not true of anything when it comes to LDPE or HDPE plastic. Nothing sticks to this. really well, but this 5200 adhesive does a fine job.

Catfishnut
 

addy1

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I have used the 5200 stuff, it does work well, and does take time to set up.
 

koiguy1969

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i dont believe koikeepr is an active member here any longer...its been just over a year since shes been on..10 / 10 / 10 to be exact
 

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