Dumb newbie question

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Hey everyone. So I have been pouring over all the threads and trying to learn some things.
I recently put in a new pond. Yeah me. It's one of those large preformed liners from lowes. (yes I did post an intro first)
I estimate to
 
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Well I went and got a 34 gal storage container with a lid. 1" pvc for incoming. 2" for out going. I will post pics tomorrow .
 

addy1

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Great you are getting going there! Is your storage container strong walled? They tend to bulge and break over time with the weight of the water. 34 gallons will make a great filter for your pond. What are you going to use for media?
You can T the line, one to the uv one to the filter. I have read that you want some of the un-uv'd water to make it to the filter. I don't use them but have read on here of ones that do. A lot turn them off once they get past that first green water syndrome, i.e. when your filter gets going good. So you would want it set up where that uv water will path to your filter if you do turn it off. .............to the best of my knowledge lol

I have read too where you want lower flow to the uv light, i.e. a ball valve in line to control the flow if it is too much.

I am sure someone that uses uv will chime in and correct me if I am wrong...........lol
 

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Are you sure your pump is rated at 52 gph? That flow would barely run a small tabletop fountain. Now, 52 gpm would make 3120 gph, much more likely for a pond pump! John
 
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Addy1: Thanks for the input. I am on my way to get a T and ball valve for the UV. Media is going to be either green scrubbies if I can find a cheap bulk rate or swim noodles or a combo. This is all on the cheap since I have very little budget.

HARO: The pump is 520 gph. So that should handle the flow. I actually have two. If it doesn't flow fast enough I will get a higher rated pump. My issue is budget. I have two of the 520 gph pumps. The one going to the waterfall via UV is running nicely. I want to get the filter in asap as I have that ugly blanket of algea covering the bottom and now I am screening out mosquitoes. arrrrg...
I think I will get some feeder gold fish to help control that as well. I know water may not be balanced yet, but I need to get these things under control asap. Wife is having a fit.

Anyway... pics this afternoon! Whoo hoo!!
 

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520 gph. O.k, now it's starting to make more sense! I could just imagine you splitting 52 gph. That would be Chinese water torture times two. And do you realize that the filter only starts to cycle once ammonia is added to the water? The nitrosommonas bacteria can't grow intil they have a source of food. This will happen slowly when plant material breaks down, but you can speed it up by adding a FEW feeder goldfish or other fish. These will also take care of the mosquito problem! John
 

koiguy1969

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it seems your getting things under control now...i just wanted to add....the only dumb questions are the ones you dont ask!! if you dont know something ask, and learn by our mistakes instead of making them yourself!
 
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OK Folks. I installed the bio filter yesterday. Unfortunately it looks like I have a small leak. I noticed the pond was down a couple of inches this morning. Went and checked the filter. Sure enough the ground is wet. Not soaking, so its a small leak. I have a plastic barrel trash can we used for recycled cans. I am going to clean it out this morning and do a water test. Fill it up and see if it will hold water and not be a problem like the rectangular storage box I used. If it works I will pop down and get another 1" PVC pipe. Cut the holes and transfer everything over to the new container. If not, well going to upset the wife and go get another sturdier container....... Anyway you can see the pics over here: http://haven.plpwebs.com/pond/

I look forward to all comments.
Cheers!
 

taherrmann4

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Pond looks good, like the shape. Good luck with fixing your leak, sounds like you found the source often times that is the hardest part.
 

addy1

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Looks very nice, I see you said on the site you want to add koi. That pond is not big enough for koi. I would stick with a few goldfish or shubunkins.
 
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What do you mean by "blanket of algae blooming"? Mat of slime green algae laying on the bottom? String algae? Floating algae on the surface? These are all easy to remove in that small of a pond with a minnow net from the pet store or by hand. Use the net once a week to remove stuff settled on the bottom and you will have a very clean pond.

Bio filters convert ammonia and other chemicals. They have no effect on most algae.

As Haro said, you can add feeder goldfish to produce ammonia. Some people might find that a cruel process. Less cruel, faster, easier to control and maybe even cheaper is to buy some ammonia at the drug store and put some into the pond. Its the same chemical fish produce and the bacteria eat. Or, have a beer and wiz into the pond. People are great ammonia producers too. Measure the ammonia until it gets to the level you want. Keep measuring until it goes back to zero and you know the bacteria are fully ready for fish. If you don't want to measure ammonia skip the entire thing including the bio filter. Without measurement there's no way to know if a filter is needed, or more is needed. You'd be blind. Why have a filter at all?

Or if the goal is to have goldfish in this pond I would add 3 to 5 small fish. Measure ammonia if you like, but 100 gals in a pond that has been running for awhile, shouldn't be an issue. There are dangers, most not easy to understand, but ammonia wouldn't be top of my list for 3 to 5 small fish.

UV filters do nothing once the water isn't green. Well it continues to kill bacteria but I don't see that as a good thing. Once green water is cleared it normally stays clear for several months, even several years, because certain kinds of bacteria and string algae can inhibit single cell algae growth. And the bacteria don't need a bio filter. They have been growing in bodies of water for about 2 billion years. If the water turns green again you can start up the UV again. One maintenance issue is to check the glass covering the UV light. A calcium type deposit can build on the glass blocking the light. The glass should appear clear, not frosted. This build up can occur in just a few days.

Building filters is a fun hobby, which I enjoyed for many years. But be careful not to confuse the love of filter building with obtaining a specific result. The two rarely have anything in common in the hobby world.
 
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You can use store bought ammonia as stated above as long as it is non-sudsing and clear. Get a base line ammonia reading with a test kit make note of how many ppm you have. Add ammonia to raise the level and record that level. Take another reading a day or two later and note that level. Add more ammonia to increase the level again. Continue doing so until you see that the readings go to almost zero in an hour or two depending on the hang time for you bio-filter. When it stays at or close to zero when you keep adding ammonia , your filter should be cycled. This is fishless cycling of a new filter. Note: DO NOT RELEASE FISH INTO POND DURING THIS TIME. ONLY ONCE THE FILTER IS CYCLED AND YOUR AMMONIA READINGS ARE AT OR CLOSE TO ZERO PPM.
 

sissy

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your pond looks good and you used the same retaining wall block I used and it makes a great insulator to add the dirt around it .I use peroxide to clean algae
 

sissy

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much safer and much easier and later with plants and fish it will not harm them
 

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