Favorite Phosphate Reducers?

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I did a water test today, and scored perfect on pH, nitrite, and ammonia, but a solid 10 on phosphate. Interestingly enough, my tap water is at 0 for phosphate, so I assume it's all being produced by my fish. I plan to increase my water changes from 10% to maybe 20-25% for the next few weeks, but also just wondering if anyone has a favorite, "Swear by it" product for reducing the phosphate level.

I do have UV running, and plenty of plants (water hyacinth and water lilies). Thanks for any suggestions!!
 

crsublette

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If your phosphate test is a 10, then your water quite likely registers much higher than a 10 since the common aquarium/pond phosphate test kits are only testing for orthophosphates, that is reactive, plant available, esters or salts of phosphates, rather than metaphosphates, that is condense, complex organic, only soluble after digested by an enzyme from microorganisms or plants that create the orthophosphates as the result of organic decomposition.

Generally, I found phosphate tests stir too much worry from folk, that is more than needed and causes folk to unnecessarily overreact. For water gardeners, registrable phosphate levels is common due to all of the plant, algae, and fish waste decay.

An effective natural phosphate reducer is anything with a high iron content. Iron has a very high attraction to phosphate, that is much like how calcium has a very high attraction to carbonates (CO32-) in higher water pHs. Iron is one of the major nutrients that is most often lacking in pond waters due to its high demand for chlorophyll production and photosynthesis. Some folk's water is naturally high in iron so, even if the phosphate test it high, it is no worry since the iron content counteracts it.

Water hyacinth is a good "canary" to tell you if you have an iron deficiency in your water. Oregano, basil, and petunias are also good iron "canaries". If these plants have any slight yellowing, then it is most likely due to low iron content, but, since other nutrients also impact the production of chlorophyll, which is what creates the "green-ness", then the yellowing could be due to particular string algae excreting a poison forcing the plant to have a deficiency or some other nutrient deficiency. The plant will still grow and "try" to function so to survive, but it will never truly thrive, and, when it is being retarded due to any deficiency, then this means it is also consuming fewer nutrients, including phosphates, out of the water.

Iron is not a toxic metal to fish, but, if you have too much of a good thing, then eventually it will hurt the fish and this threshold can be met quite fast since the iron products are quite concentrated. The thread, Water pH and Peat Moss, should hopefully give you some insight on how to properly test and diagnose iron. You can also mix in a plant medium product, called Laterite, which is high in iron, to your aquatic plant pots, and this will help the plants consume more phosphates due to Laterite's high iron ability to attract the phosphate.
 
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Thank you SO MUCH @crsublette . That was a great explanation, and very helpful. My hyacinths are definitely "anemic," based on what you've described. It's also good to know that phosphate is not a "panic" situation. I will find a test for the iron, and proceed... gently... from there. I appreciate your thorough help!
 
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Hey @crsublette do you happen to have any info regarding what amount of iron would be good to throw into a pond that is about 1600 gallons and all the hyacinth are going yellow and then brown? The fish are not eating the roots, as I have them isolated in containers where they can not be accessed by the fish. Last year the hyacinth I had isolated had roots 2' long easy and this year they are not growing at all.
 

crsublette

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@C-Note There are references to iron tests in the Water pH and Peat Moss thread. Keep in mind it depends on the type of iron you are using, which the type of effective iron to use is also determined by your water's pH.

@dieselplower The amount depends on the concentration of iron in the product you buy. The math is explained in the Water pH and Peat Moss thread. Be sure to keep it around 0.50ppm or below 2ppm.


EDDHA iron is the best, does not degrade over time, can be used in water pHs of up to 9.0 but it will make the water noticeably pink or even red and I have not yet found a good test for it. So, you are pretty much relying on the accuracy of your math and your measurements. Using a gram scale for measurements would be wise.

Easier to test for DTPA iron and does not color the water, but light degrades it over a short period of time and should only be used in water pHs of 7.5 or below.

Do not use EDTA or non-chelated iron, such as ferrous sulfate, unless it is in a bottle to spray the plant foliage during the cool parts of the day since, if sprayed in the hot afternoon, then the this spray has the potential of burning the plant. If the iron product does not state the chelate, then the iron is most likely EDTA or is a non-chelated iron.
 

crsublette

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I just happen to have about 80 pounds of chelated iron in my garage :)

It should tell you the concentration on it. It might be 6% or 10% or 18% or 22% or something else.

To try to simplify the math into a plug'n play formula... here we go...

ppm = 2.0 mg/L = 7.58 mg / gal
It is divided by a 1000 to convert mg to grams.
Grams multiplied by 0.035274 to convert grams to ounces.
% = product's iron concentration
V = pond volume in gallons

{ [ ( 7.58 / % ) * V ] / 1000 } * 0.035274 = dosage of iron product in ounces to obtain 2ppm in your pond volume. divide this by 4 to obtain the dosage amount to obtain 0.5ppm

So... Pond that is 1600 gallons and product's iron concentration is 8%, then..

( ( (7.58 / 0.08) * 1600 ) / 1000 ) * 0.035274 = 5.347 ounces to obtain 2ppm in 1600 gallons with 8% iron concentrate product. Divide 5.347 by 4 to obtain 0.50 ppm.
 
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crsublette

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Better yet... to simplify that formula further it would be..

( 0.2674 * V ) / ( 1000 * % )

So... Pond that is 1600 gallons and product's iron concentration is 8%, then..

( 0.2674 * 1600 ) / ( 1000 * 0.08 ) = 5.348 ounces to obtain 2ppm in 1600 gallons with 8% iron concentrate product. Divide 5.348 by 4 to obtain 0.50 ppm.
 

crsublette

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Just be sure to mix it in a bucket first and then slowly pour it around the pond parameter or around the plants or in an area of agitation. You do not want the fish to swim through a heavy concentration.
 

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