Operation Duck pond is a go! Phase 1: pre-planning


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The bog WILL break down the solids as well as the ones-you-can't but it takes more time and these solids can constrict the flow up from the bottom of the bog. This is called clogging. When this happens, the water finds other ways to rise and thus avoids a lot of the bacteria-colonized gravel in your bog, thus circumventing
That is one advantage to the snorkel and centipede systems tot he aquablock bogs . The water is pumped into the centipede this is a large area about 18" wide and a foot tall or there about . the water flow is reduced due to the size of area and is open to the aqua blocks above. This is where the water flow is reduced even more . the goal is to have this area replaced by displacement more then by displacement by noticeable flow and with all the dividers and such within the aquablocks odds are these fragments will be come condominiums for bacteria and a hole host of other creatures as they eat it up. . Then the left overs might make there way to the gravel above but it's there we hope the design works to where the debris falls back to the centipede and to the clean out chamber of the snorkel. or as mentioned above it will find the path of least resistance as it works its way up through the rock and roots of the wetland plants
 
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It should work, imo, with an eye toward making sure this wall won't tip/lean outward and collapse. A sandbag (I'd not use dirt; you'd be adding potential debri/mess to your pond) would be a large rock in its way, so you're building a rock wall. There will probably be some water transfer between pond and bog but I don't see it as a problem as most of the water will push up through the 'easier-to-penetrate' substrate of rocks and gravel. In time, I imagine the sandbag wall would clog up to some extent and you'd have less transfer. I've not done a bog this way, but those are my thoughts.

What I did was to use a single liner for both bog and pond. My bog is dug down about 2' or so below the pond surface while another 12" lies above. I built from ground-contact treated 4x4s a box and this is what holds all my gravel/pipes/liner. If you have the option, you could do this instead of your sandbags, thereby knowing you have the pond holding the box on one side and the bog stone on the other with more construction surety. This also allows you to shape the 'box' any way you want. You'd dig a shelf then, 12" or so below pond height and use this as your platform/base for your bog box.

Just an idea.
I see that I was not clear enough in my explaination! My intent was not to put the sandbags INSIDE the pond, but under the liner. Similar to how addy had done with the landscaping timber. I was drawn to the sandbag option because of the ability to create a less angular divider (and price!) I am hoping that with a wall that is only 3ish feet tall, it will be stable enough with water of the pond on one side, and bog gravel on the other side. I've seen some things where people reinforce "earthbag" walls using rebar stakes driven through them into the ground, so I am not afraid to pursue that avenue as well.
 
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There are sand bags and there are sand tubes , with enough rebar even the tubes would work With out i would not temp it 3 feet is not a ton of weight pushing at the dividing wall but if you do use pea stone it has properties like sand there will be enough pressure to push over tubes with little doubt.
 
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There are sand bags and there are sand tubes , with enough rebar even the tubes would work With out i would not temp it 3 feet is not a ton of weight pushing at the dividing wall but if you do use pea stone it has properties like sand there will be enough pressure to push over tubes with little doubt.

I intend to get the sandbags that they use for holding back floodwater. I figure that's precisely what they'll be doing!
 

brokensword

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I see that I was not clear enough in my explaination! My intent was not to put the sandbags INSIDE the pond, but under the liner. Similar to how addy had done with the landscaping timber. I was drawn to the sandbag option because of the ability to create a less angular divider (and price!) I am hoping that with a wall that is only 3ish feet tall, it will be stable enough with water of the pond on one side, and bog gravel on the other side. I've seen some things where people reinforce "earthbag" walls using rebar stakes driven through them into the ground, so I am not afraid to pursue that avenue as well.
seems to me if you make this wall-beneath-the-liner concave on both sides, I can't see it being a problem. (and you want this shape for the inside of your bog anyhow) As opposed to stacking straight up, which to me would be a concern. And maybe rebar has been used to help support but I'd probably avoid anything which might accidently come in contact with my liner, creating a hole/leak. Just me though--I'm the type now that has all the water lines INSIDE the liner just so there's zero percent chance of emptying the pond by accident.
 
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I myself would use caution the stakes could end up puncturing the liner as sand bags can even compress there kinda hard to compact. i would probably go as far as to 1. not have it in the top bag or two cap the sand bags with some wood . The pressures at the top of the pond are minimal
 
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addy1

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We put rebar through the landscape timbers, put a cement tube at each end of the bog with the timbers on the bog side of the cement. It has never moved.
 

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