Problem edging area...any and all suggestions welcome!

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Pondmaster said:
Have you ever checked out Rock-on-a-roll?

I am looking into that...do you have experience with it? It looked from my research like the black pond foam would be the best way of attaching it to the liner, but they also recommend other waterproof epoxies. Any advice?
 
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Pondmaster said:
Have you ever checked out Rock-on-a-roll?

I am looking into that...do you have experience with it? It looked from my research like the black pond foam would be the best way of attaching it to the liner, but they also recommend other waterproof epoxies. Any advice?
 

digginponds

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Things to should consider when using BLACK WATERFALL FOAM.

A -Once you start using the can of Black Waterfall Foam DON’T stop until the can is empty! It is not easy to clean the tube that dispenses the foam from the can if you stop to talk on the phone for 15 minutes or decide to take a lunch break in the middle of your foaming job . You very well may waste your can of foam if you get distracted.

B-Wear expendable clothing when you are working with the black waterfall foam. Your clothes will be forever marked if you come in contact with the black waterfall foam.

C- If you DON’T wear rubber gloves you will likely be explaining to your co-workers, family and friends why you have DIRTY, BLACK, DISGUSTING HANDS for the better half of a week!

D- DON’T dispense TOO MUCH foam into the cracks of the rocks. Remember the waterfall foam will expand exponentially and if you squirt too much into a crack at once, you will have black blobs emerging from your rockwork!

E- If you can visibly see the black waterfall foam somewhere in the process oooooozing out of a spot between the stones DON’T PANIC simply sprinkle some sand, dirt or small gravel into the foam while it is still drying to help conceal and disquise it!

F-The foam will usually set up within 15 minutes to 30 minutes and be ready to have water run over it! The drying process can take much longer in extremely COLD or HOT conditions. Go Figure!

G- The Black Waterfall Foam is not a SEALANT. Think of waterfall foam as a director of traffic (“water”) that has the ability to interlock dry stack rockwork together when solidified but is porous when dry. It will let water pass through itself so don’t use it as product to seal leaks!
 

digginponds

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Things to should consider when using BLACK WATERFALL FOAM.

A -Once you start using the can of Black Waterfall Foam DON’T stop until the can is empty! It is not easy to clean the tube that dispenses the foam from the can if you stop to talk on the phone for 15 minutes or decide to take a lunch break in the middle of your foaming job . You very well may waste your can of foam if you get distracted.

B-Wear expendable clothing when you are working with the black waterfall foam. Your clothes will be forever marked if you come in contact with the black waterfall foam.

C- If you DON’T wear rubber gloves you will likely be explaining to your co-workers, family and friends why you have DIRTY, BLACK, DISGUSTING HANDS for the better half of a week!

D- DON’T dispense TOO MUCH foam into the cracks of the rocks. Remember the waterfall foam will expand exponentially and if you squirt too much into a crack at once, you will have black blobs emerging from your rockwork!

E- If you can visibly see the black waterfall foam somewhere in the process oooooozing out of a spot between the stones DON’T PANIC simply sprinkle some sand, dirt or small gravel into the foam while it is still drying to help conceal and disquise it!

F-The foam will usually set up within 15 minutes to 30 minutes and be ready to have water run over it! The drying process can take much longer in extremely COLD or HOT conditions. Go Figure!

G- The Black Waterfall Foam is not a SEALANT. Think of waterfall foam as a director of traffic (“water”) that has the ability to interlock dry stack rockwork together when solidified but is porous when dry. It will let water pass through itself so don’t use it as product to seal leaks!
 

jethro13

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Plant ground cover. It's cheap, lots of different varities and in a couple of years you will be surprised how well it will cover. If you look at the pictures of my ponds on this site you will see what I mean. And I have to constantly thin them out or else they would take over.
 

jethro13

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Plant ground cover. It's cheap, lots of different varities and in a couple of years you will be surprised how well it will cover. If you look at the pictures of my ponds on this site you will see what I mean. And I have to constantly thin them out or else they would take over.
 

DrCase

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jacquirenee said:
I The water level now is the level for the whole thing except those six feet or so.


If you only have to deal with around 6 ft can you move the rocks and lift the liner in that spot..
And dig a small shelf down just below the water level
Lay the liner down over the shelf and turn it up at the edge
start the rock stack down in the water and hide every thing

Did i tell you your pond looks great
 

DrCase

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jacquirenee said:
I The water level now is the level for the whole thing except those six feet or so.


If you only have to deal with around 6 ft can you move the rocks and lift the liner in that spot..
And dig a small shelf down just below the water level
Lay the liner down over the shelf and turn it up at the edge
start the rock stack down in the water and hide every thing

Did i tell you your pond looks great
 
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I spent the better part of yesterday applying black foam. digginponds made a very good list! The "too much foam" caution is probly one you want to pay attention to since you're trying to stick them onto a surface. The foam works well when you're mounding rocks (such as when you've created a ledge that begins below the planned waterline and you're stacking rocks up and out of the pond) and can apply from "behind" the rock. The foam is not all that strong in and of itself. I believe the goal is to stack and squirt some foam and stack more rock and squirt some more foam and by the time you're done you've created a matrix of rock and foam that's tough to move because everything's stuck to the adjacent rock.

I imagine the foam will be problematic when trying to glue a thin veneer onto liner for several reasons.

#1: The foam doesn't immediately hold the rock in place. I think you'd probably have to build a scaffold from some wood that supports the rocks wherever you start gluing to keep everything from slipping off.

#2: You'll have a tough time keeping the foam from haemorrhaging out and around each rock. Have some sand ready, like diggin suggests. Wish I'd though of that yesterday!

#3: Gluing rocks onto your liner will cause it to pull down against whatever's underneath it at pond's edge. Each rock only weighs a pound or two. You stick a hundred rocks on there and it all adds up. Just something to think about... I don't know how much area you need to hide.
 
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I spent the better part of yesterday applying black foam. digginponds made a very good list! The "too much foam" caution is probly one you want to pay attention to since you're trying to stick them onto a surface. The foam works well when you're mounding rocks (such as when you've created a ledge that begins below the planned waterline and you're stacking rocks up and out of the pond) and can apply from "behind" the rock. The foam is not all that strong in and of itself. I believe the goal is to stack and squirt some foam and stack more rock and squirt some more foam and by the time you're done you've created a matrix of rock and foam that's tough to move because everything's stuck to the adjacent rock.

I imagine the foam will be problematic when trying to glue a thin veneer onto liner for several reasons.

#1: The foam doesn't immediately hold the rock in place. I think you'd probably have to build a scaffold from some wood that supports the rocks wherever you start gluing to keep everything from slipping off.

#2: You'll have a tough time keeping the foam from haemorrhaging out and around each rock. Have some sand ready, like diggin suggests. Wish I'd though of that yesterday!

#3: Gluing rocks onto your liner will cause it to pull down against whatever's underneath it at pond's edge. Each rock only weighs a pound or two. You stick a hundred rocks on there and it all adds up. Just something to think about... I don't know how much area you need to hide.
 

addy1

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Was thinking about this while picking up rocks, have to think of something!

It would take work and some time, but another way to make a stone covering would be to take any of the plastic fencing that the hardware stores sell, like the green stuff, or the black rabbit fencing. Drape it over the top of the wall and down into the water as low as you need to go.
Use your rock cap to anchor, or drape over even further and anchor in the ground via stakes, dirt etc. Take heavy fishing line, use it to attach the rocks, ie like two edges, then if need be squirt some pond foam in.

Use different sizes shapes of the rocks and put them close together. Probably keep with smallish rocks.
 

addy1

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Was thinking about this while picking up rocks, have to think of something!

It would take work and some time, but another way to make a stone covering would be to take any of the plastic fencing that the hardware stores sell, like the green stuff, or the black rabbit fencing. Drape it over the top of the wall and down into the water as low as you need to go.
Use your rock cap to anchor, or drape over even further and anchor in the ground via stakes, dirt etc. Take heavy fishing line, use it to attach the rocks, ie like two edges, then if need be squirt some pond foam in.

Use different sizes shapes of the rocks and put them close together. Probably keep with smallish rocks.
 
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In my second photo of 2 mountain ponds in the pictures of your pond forum I glued in the thin granit rocks under the falls with black foam on rubber linner. I had to brace each rock with a stick until dry. It has held for 5 years of snow and ice.
 

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