Question about waterfall rocks

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Pretty much every picture I see of waterfalls are constructed using lighter colored rock similar to granite or so called egg rock but larger.

Is there a reason that so called "lava rock' is not used? Maybe due to lack of contrast and lava does not stand out as much as granite?

As I understand it the lava rock is lighter than the typical rocks so I'm thinking they may be much easier to place as I'm doing this project solo.
Does lava rock leach harmful substances in to the pond over time?

Any thoughts on this?
 
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addy1

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I used field stone, large flat rock.

I have some lava rock, full of holes, very light. Neat stuff, no clue if it would leach.
 
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If I had to guess, I would say lava rock isn't commonly used because it is so full of holes.
I made a little waterfall for my Dad, using rocks that he had on hand. It wasn't lava rock, but it was similar in that it was super porous and full of holes. It was very neat rock but it didn't make for a nice waterfall -- because the water can't flow OVER it. Very solid rock just provides a surface for all the water to move over. You just use a little waterfall foam here and there to really direct the flow. With a super porous rock, there is no way to do that. You are fighting with the materials you have.
Having said that, you could always use a mix of rocks. Lava rock is really cool and provides lots of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on. Maybe you could use non-porous rocks for the waterfall structure and a few lava rocks for interest.
I do all my projects alone, too -- I hear you about trying to find some solutions that won't hurt your back!
I used quite a few watermelon sized rocks -- or a flatter version of a watermelon. I found that dragging on scraps of underlayment worked to move them. I also turned some on end and turned them like a wheel. Some I just flopped end over end until I got them where I wanted them. @YShahar had some good tricks for getting her larger rocks in place.
Good luck to you! Show us pictures of your waterfall! :)
 

JRS

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Lava rock commonly sold for freshwater aquarium decorations and I have used it in tanks for years so leaching should not be an issue. Can be very rough and sharp at times besides the porousness mentioned.
 
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As @JRS mentioned the sharp and often very brittle rock is not ideal in a liner pond and if it is also a swim pond that too is not ideal against the skin. The only other issue is dirt and plants like weeds taking root in these pockets once they do you will always have them.
 

j.w

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I'd use it outside of the pond as it is very interesting to look at but inside might hurt the fish if they brush up against it.
 
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I think there are times when you want your rocks to be heavy - much more stable for walking or stepping on or holding a liner in place than a lava rock that can easily be moved.
 

YShahar

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Lava rock probably wouldn't be the best choice for waterfalls, because of all the reasons folks have already mentioned: it's too porous, too sharp, and too light. In addition, it tends to be fragile, so you could end up building something nice, only to have bits break off it and ruin your design.

Heavier, blockier rocks are really a better choice, but they don't need to be huge boulders. You can get quite a nice impact using a couple of larger rocks and then a scattering of smaller ones. For example, check out this build by the Aquascape team using basketball-sized rocks:


Also, if you can get limestone where you live, it's less dense (and thus lighter) than granite. Feather rock is even lighter. In my build, I've used limestone, as that's what came out of the hole as I was digging.

You can get more bang for your buck if you put two rocks that have similar textures next to each other and fill the space between them with crushed rock or similar. This will make it look like you've got one large rock with a fissure running through it. Another trick is to make a spillway with a flat stepping-stone type rock set vertically, with the liner brought up behind it and covered with flat rocks set horizontally. The vertical stone will look like the front face of a large square rock, while the horizontally set ones at the top of the falls will look like parts of the same stone poking up out of the stream.

I'll post an example below. Here, the spillway looks much more massive than it is, and so do the frame rocks. In reality, each of those rocks is set vertically, with other rocks set horizontally behind them.
waterfall and stream-Tevet_5784_cropped_web.jpg


And here is what this looked like while being built:

waterfall-spillway_web.jpg

All three of these rocks were too heavy for me to lift, but I was able to roll them into place one at a time. The frame rock on the right was a two-person rock; I had my Larger Half manhandle it into the spot while I lifted it with a crowbar and added shims under it to hold it in place. After filling the voids with scrap rock, I added another fairly thin rock behind the spillway to make it look as if the spillway stone extended back a good ways.

Once the water was running and I could see how it was falling, I took a chisel and knocked off the the part of the spillway that sticks up on the right, so that I could make a divided falls by putting a rounder rock on top. One nice thing about using limestone is that it's fairly easy to carve with nothing more complicated than a hammer and chisel!

There are some tricks that can help you move the heavier rocks without throwing your back out. I'm a fairly small 61 year old granny, but have managed to move some pretty big rocks for my build. Some of the tools that have helped:
  • Several heavy duty construction slings of different sizes.
  • A strong wheelbarrow, sack truck, or other wheeled conveyance.
  • A manual winch (come-along).
  • A couple of good, sturdy crowbars. You'll end up using more than one at a time in most cases, often with bits of wood or stone as wedges and fulcrums.
  • A snatchblock as a force multiplier. There are some great videos out there on how to use them. One important point is that the snatchblock is always attached to the object to be moved, *not* to the immovable support point.
  • Some strong boards and pipes to use as rollers.
One word of advice is never rely on your muscles to do the work. Rather, use mechanical aids as much as possible, and be very careful and deliberate in your movements. What might have been a minor sprain when we were younger can easily put us out for months now (or worse). If you can finagle an assistant, that's even better!
 
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These are all great suggestions @YShahar . My son and I moved lots of big rocks that really should have had a second or even third man by using some engineering tricks. Like you mentioned - a simple sling puts "handles" on a rock so you can lift it - sometimes even a few inches off the ground is all it takes - position it, or even drag it across the lawn. We used scraps of underlayment or liner which allowed us to drop the rock in place and just leave the makeshift sling underneath the rock. We'd trim away the excess - or not, depending on the location - and grab another scrap for the next boulder.

The other thing that helped tremendously was using a yard cart that had removable sides - we didn't have to lift the rock in and out of the cart, just slide it on and roll it where we needed it. I'm not going to lie - we destroyed the cart during the build, but it had a lifetime warranty and the company replaced it for free. They advertised an 800 lb weight limit - I doubt we even hit 400 lbs at a time, so it was a legit warranty claim. I think they just never imagined someone actually trying to haul that much weight!

It was like this one and honestly for the price, if we hadn't gotten the replacement I still would have been ok with it being destroyed - it was a lifesaver!


Screenshot 2024-02-04 at 8.55.05 AM.png
 
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A COUPLE TRICKS WE HAVE USED ON PROJECTS ARE forearm fork trucks invaluable.
1707064322406.png
These straps allow for using leg strength over back and arms it also alows your hand to be free and maneuver the lift so much easier. they also are avalable with a harnerss for your back alowing you to carry even more.

There are also HD woven construction baskets / slings and or most are more familiar with the cotton pouch with two sling handles to carry firewood.

And then there is the good old fashion CARDBOARD make a walk using cardboard pllace your boulder onto another piece and watch how easy it can slide. now mind you there can be no rocks jogging out anywhere the weight will surely destroy your progress hitting these objects below.

Then you have the underlayment basket where it is possible that 4 MEN can MOVE a boulder that weighs 800 pounds. this can be accomplished with all the tricks i have listed
 

addy1

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I have that yard cart, about 30 years old now. A little rusty, paint chipped, but still works. I put never flat tires on it.
 
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Lava rock probably wouldn't be the best choice for waterfalls, because of all the reasons folks have already mentioned: it's too porous, too sharp, and too light. In addition, it tends to be fragile, so you could end up building something nice, only to have bits break off it and ruin your design.

Heavier, blockier rocks are really a better choice, but they don't need to be huge boulders. You can get quite a nice impact using a couple of larger rocks and then a scattering of smaller ones. For example, check out this build by the Aquascape team using basketball-sized rocks:


Also, if you can get limestone where you live, it's less dense (and thus lighter) than granite. Feather rock is even lighter. In my build, I've used limestone, as that's what came out of the hole as I was digging.

You can get more bang for your buck if you put two rocks that have similar textures next to each other and fill the space between them with crushed rock or similar. This will make it look like you've got one large rock with a fissure running through it. Another trick is to make a spillway with a flat stepping-stone type rock set vertically, with the liner brought up behind it and covered with flat rocks set horizontally. The vertical stone will look like the front face of a large square rock, while the horizontally set ones at the top of the falls will look like parts of the same stone poking up out of the stream.

I'll post an example below. Here, the spillway looks much more massive than it is, and so do the frame rocks. In reality, each of those rocks is set vertically, with other rocks set horizontally behind them.
View attachment 161929

And here is what this looked like while being built:

View attachment 161930
All three of these rocks were too heavy for me to lift, but I was able to roll them into place one at a time. The frame rock on the right was a two-person rock; I had my Larger Half manhandle it into the spot while I lifted it with a crowbar and added shims under it to hold it in place. After filling the voids with scrap rock, I added another fairly thin rock behind the spillway to make it look as if the spillway stone extended back a good ways.

Once the water was running and I could see how it was falling, I took a chisel and knocked off the the part of the spillway that sticks up on the right, so that I could make a divided falls by putting a rounder rock on top. One nice thing about using limestone is that it's fairly easy to carve with nothing more complicated than a hammer and chisel!

There are some tricks that can help you move the heavier rocks without throwing your back out. I'm a fairly small 61 year old granny, but have managed to move some pretty big rocks for my build. Some of the tools that have helped:
  • Several heavy duty construction slings of different sizes.
  • A strong wheelbarrow, sack truck, or other wheeled conveyance.
  • A manual winch (come-along).
  • A couple of good, sturdy crowbars. You'll end up using more than one at a time in most cases, often with bits of wood or stone as wedges and fulcrums.
  • A snatchblock as a force multiplier. There are some great videos out there on how to use them. One important point is that the snatchblock is always attached to the object to be moved, *not* to the immovable support point.
  • Some strong boards and pipes to use as rollers.
One word of advice is never rely on your muscles to do the work. Rather, use mechanical aids as much as possible, and be very careful and deliberate in your movements. What might have been a minor sprain when we were younger can easily put us out for months now (or worse). If you can finagle an assistant, that's even better!
I'm in Love
 
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@GBBUDD - I saw this post and thought - "this lady knows her stuff!" AND knows how to put it in writing in an organized way that is easy to understand.
When the world settles down a little, I think Greg needs to visit YShahar!
 

YShahar

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When the world settles down a little, I think Greg needs to visit YShahar!

Now that would be very cool! Maybe when @GBBUDD is hobnobbing with the Aquascape folks, he can put in a plug for a visit by Team Aquascape to the Muddle East. Come to think of it, they could probably get a bargain on flight tickets at the moment, what with one thing and another...
 
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@GBBUDD - I saw this post and thought - "this lady knows her stuff!" AND knows how to put it in writing in an organized way that is easy to understand.
When the world settles down a little, I think Greg needs to visit YShahar!
Nothing sexier in my eye, than a woman who can wheel a prybar a snatch block and a endless sling !!! and knows how to manipulate it !

It's not her literary mind that sets off sparks, I guarantee you 3/4 of the ladies i know if you asked them what a snatch block was they would give a dirty answer at best, then the 25% who knew what a snatch block was only 5 % would know it gets placed closest to the item being moved and not the fixed point. and to be fair i bet only 40 percent of guys would know either.
I have to admit when it comes to pullies hoists etc I am a rookie i have seen some guys rig up amazing things with a few snatch blocks and pullies.

Like the skid steer i rolled down a hill and a ski slope chair lift guy righted the machine and pulled it back up the hill with only man power. i was in awe
 
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