Woodworkers, I could use some input.

[Mmathis]

As I said the stability will come from the base size and not extra layers. The easiest way to do it would be a larger base with a pipe flange attached to the base and then a short length of pipe. No gluing or anything else needed. I would be happy to make a base (or bases) with a fancy edge for free just pay shipping.

With the extra layers, I'm going more for weight in the base at this point.

Would attaching a pipe flange at the top of the hole help keep the dowel in place through the layers of wood?

And I appreciate the offer. If there was more time, I might consider it, but on a deadline, need 4, already have mine done except for the dowel-hole (for what they're worth), and they wouldn't be from me if someone else did the work......

 

[MitchM]

Right TM, 3 types of bits, three types of 1" holes.
Hole saws are great for drilling completely through something
Spade bits are great for removing a lot of material quickly, but can produce a crude finish.
Forstner bits are great for clean precision holes. They do not have a pilot bit that will perforate deeper than you would like.
I use forstner bits for furniture building. A drill press is preferred, but I think a forstner bit will give you the result you are looking for.

 

[mgmine]

Unless you go all the way through a hole saw won't work plus it will most likely give you an over sized hole. A forstner bit will give you a nice flat bottom but will cost a lot more. The spade bit will cost about $3 dollars and work fine for what you are doing. It will be difficult to keep the drill straight no matter how you drill the hole. About the only way to do it is to put a square next to the drill to guide it but even then it can go off the mark. I suggested a flange because you won't have to drill a hole and it will be straight. But in answer to your question "Would attaching a pipe flange at the top of the hole help keep the dowel in place through the layers of wood?" Not really. If you went with a pipe you wouldn't have to have it show. Simply have it cut a few inches shorter than the height of the number of rolls you want to hold. One other thing it will give you the weight that you are trying to get with the extra layer of wood.

 

[Mmathis]

Thanks, @mgmine and @MitchM! Lots to remember for my next project! Who knows, maybe I can get my "stuff" standardized, and sell these things at a craft fair....probably not, but I do like working with wood and wish I had more knowledge & experience.

I took a few pics of what I did while patiently waiting for your replies -- all of, oh what, immediately Can't believe the quick responses and I DO appreciate every bit of helpful advice. As far as stability, I've dry-stacked up to 4 rolls of TP on my proto-type, and there was no tipping.

I think I will go with the hole saw, as I am drilling all the way through the wood. I'll be able to drill one hole in the top piece, then another hole to match in the bottom 2 pieces which are already glued together. Then I'll match the holes and glue the top piece on. Also, going to use screws to secure the top piece in place, and will get screws long enough to go through all 3 layers for extra "hold."

In the pics you can see where I'm playing with holes, hole sizes, stains, etc. on scrap pieces. I eye-balled the center [OK, I did crudely measure with straight lines from corner to corner.....] and practiced with the 7/8" hole saw and dowel. The fit is about perfect. Here, I drilled pilot holes, then hammered 3 nails at an angle into the top piece of wood and the dowel. For this practice, I used what I have on hand, but I'll be using and countersinking finishing nails instead of what you see. Hoping that the nails, combined with wood glue will hold OK.

 

[MitchM]

Woodworking is great.
It really grounds a person.

Good work!

 

[Mmathis]

Update! Almost through!

I apparently got sloppy with my wood filler and/or glue, though, and failed to sand the top most plaque adequately. When I applied the stain this evening, there were splotchy areas. Now to decide if I should resand & restain, but these places will be covered by TP rolls when in use, so not sure...... I asked my son, and he said it didn't bother him if they weren't "perfect," and he's a Graphic Arts major -- if anything, I would think his opinion counts the most, LOL!

I'll post this pic tonight.....these are the 4 TP stands before I brought them in to stain. Really, not too bad if I do say so myself! No, that 2nd one isn't a ghost -- that was my dust-wiping rag and no where else to put it while I got the camera out.

 

[mgmine]

You did a very nice job!

 

[Mmathis]

You did a very nice job!

Gee, thanks >>> patting self on back <<<

I couldn't fall asleep last night, so I put together a quickie collage....

Of course, as soon as I saw the pics I realized what a terrible job I did sanding and staining, but again, "the guys" aren't going to be critics...... I have decided that I like painting more than I do staining, so "next time" I make this project it's gonna be with paint! I think that @Big Lou even suggested paint in the first place. Plus, I think that some contrast between the dowel and the wooden part of the finial would have looked nicer.

I had purchased a spray-on top coat [polyurethane? not sure....] and had tried it on a few test pieces. Not crazy about sprays in the first place, and this one spit out of the can, leaving an uneven coverage on the test scraps. So decided to try using a top coat that I already have for my polymer clay projects. It's a paint-on and I think it's polyurethane. It's Varathane, and is actually sold as a floor (or wood) product. Have used it for years on just about every craft project I've done, polymer clay, wood, whatever, and it's great! As a trial, I've coated the bottom surface of the bases to be sure it's compatible. If it is, I'll get a couple coats on the rest of the stands today and will post some pictures with TP rolls in place!

I'm SOOOOOOO happy to have found those "dragon claw" cabinet knobs! They cost more than I wanted to spend, but they are just perfect! [Not only for "they guys", but our family, in general is a "DRAGON" family ]

And thank you so much to everyone who has responded!