jlreed59
Mile High Ponder
Hey J.W. - Tell me more about your use of kitty litter for string algae. I have never heard of this AND I have string algae issues.j.w said:
Thanks in advance :razz:
Algae
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Thanks in advance :razz:
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I put all my plants in kitty litter, never have string algae in the pond. JW hangs some in a net bag, she will explain when she sees your post.
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P42S, I use a product (and I'm NOT trying to sell it, just found it at local pet shop, and I think it's awesome!) that is called Pond Perfect. I'm sure there are other products that do the same thing. It is a beneficial bacteria. I will start adding it when the water warms up. It creates a "matt" on the bottom of my pond of anything that the bacteria "eats up" and discards to the bottom. Then, when I net the muck off the bottom, it literally looks like a carpet of stuff that comes out. Very neat and not much mess from it. I'm sold on the stuff. A gallon jug of it is about $80-90 but it lasts more than a year. Still have some from the jug I bought last year.pond42sliders said:
Rich, in my opinion, after 6 weeks, your own beneficial bacteria started working, and killed the algae. I have used a UV light, and it takes forever. If you have any plants in your pond, once they start growing, the algae and green water will no longer have anything to feed on, as the plants are going to steal it, and the string algae and green water algae will go away naturally. Not positive if this is the actual cycle, but many that are ponders for 10-20 years and more never use UV, but have plants. I'm not going to use my UV this year, going to experiment and NOT use anything to kill the algae ... assuming it won't be as bad as last year since I've kept pumps and filters running all winter ... and see if the algae goes away in the 4-6 weeks it took last year by treating it with peroxide and UV.richyd said:I had major issues with algae last summer and I have 2 u/v lights.
Told my local aquatic guy, and he suggested barley straw which was sold in mesh bags for a very cheap price. After roughly 6 weeks all the algae died and floated to the surface, which I then scooped out with ease
I did a big no-no last year. I didn't pay attention close enough to Sissy's use of peroxide. I was battling string algae along the outer edge of my pond. Instead of draining pond down, spraying peroxide on the algae, waiting for the sun to dry and kill it, I just poured small amount over the algae, since it was on the edge, just below the surface. Well, it sure did kill the algae. Problem was that I think it stunted my bog plants as well, and my water went brown murky color, not green, for a good month! A good way to kill algae in a waterfall or stream, though, is to shut off the water flow, spray it, let it dry and get killed by the sun, wipe off as much as you can, then turn water back on. It won't hurt your plants or kill them, as it will be very diluted. What I poured in last year didn't kill anything, just maybe kept the plants from getting going sooner rather than little bit later than usual.pond42sliders said:
There is not a bit of string algae, that I can see, growing anywhere around the waterfall tiers or the small stream running down to the bog. Have not seen any (not yet) in the bog either. But it is a wanna be place to live for SwampThing, in my pond.
But, hey....i've got faster growing lillies, now! They still baby lillies, and are my first. They weren't doing so hot in containers, so I set them free in the bog. Should I put them back in planter box, and back into the pond soon?
And, thank you guys, for helping me so much. I don't say so every time I get a reply, but I'm felling blessed while reading every single one of them... :blueflower:
But, hey....i've got faster growing lillies, now! They still baby lillies, and are my first. They weren't doing so hot in containers, so I set them free in the bog. Should I put them back in planter box, and back into the pond soon?
And, thank you guys, for helping me so much. I don't say so every time I get a reply, but I'm felling blessed while reading every single one of them... :blueflower:
j.w
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Maybe this will help you. I just put mine in a net bag like addy said and hang it near the waterfall and also use it in my plant pots. I buy the kind called Special Kitty from Walmart. It's less then $5. for a 25lb bag.jlreed59 said:
http://www.nfkc.info/Cat Litter.htm
Thanks JW, for that helpful link. I haven't been able to see my fish for a few days now. They only come out at night, anyways. But, still had to use a flashlight to see them because of the algae getting that bad. Within less than a minute of putting the kitty litter under the waterfall, all the fish came up to greet the emerging gray cloud that was coming off the clay. I will post with the results of what it did to the algae when it clears. It sure looked good to my fish....which, seeing them, really looked good to me :claphands:
I have not seen this in action yet, so I cannot claim that it works or how well it works. However, it is in line with the use of clay kitty litter, I believe. It is zeolite. If you hang mesh bags of zeolite in your pond, the algae will attach to them more than any other location. When the bags are overwhelmed with algae growth, you remove them and rinse with a 3-10% salt solution to remove all the algae and entrapped ammonia, then rinse with clean water and dry in the sun. Then, reinstall this media in the bags in the pond and start all over. It supposedly will concentrate the algae upon the media itself, rather than in the rest of the pond.
I read that it works very well, but haven't actually confirmed this first hand. It sounds like a great system since the zeolite is easily rejuvenated with the saltwater rinse and it can be used over and over again.
I have planned to incorporate it into my filter system and purchased a five gallon bucket of the zeolite media, that is if I ever get my pond in operation!
Catfishnut
I read that it works very well, but haven't actually confirmed this first hand. It sounds like a great system since the zeolite is easily rejuvenated with the saltwater rinse and it can be used over and over again.
I have planned to incorporate it into my filter system and purchased a five gallon bucket of the zeolite media, that is if I ever get my pond in operation!
Catfishnut
Ok, here are the results so far. I must have a really bad case of string algae going on, but....I can see it is working. Just not overnight. It is taking a few days, but I am beginning to be able to see some rocks, again. The clay does bind to the string algae and helps to break it down and then dissipate into small particles that get washed into the filter. I've been using a sheet of media filter pad, that sits inside of the skimmer and catches most all of that algar junk. The rest of what slips by is getting caught in the netted bags of clay I have placed under the waterfalls. If I wrap anything around the filter pump itself, it cuts back the water flow too much and would be disadvantagious to the bog filter. Also, I still have to use the brush to break some of the algae string loose or try and twirl it up on the brush. But since most of it is deteriorating from the clay, it just automatically cuts loose.
Also, it seems to have helped improve the overall quality of the water. The readings, after testing have shown to be as close to perfect as they've ever been. Still not clear water, but I have high hope it will be. I may have to vacuum some of the bottom of the pond. I'm not sure yet, but I will keep you posted.
Remember too guys...I'm a brand newbie at this pond/fish keeping great hobbie. So keep in mind I'm no expert and a first timer on practically everything I am doing here.
Have a great day,
Susan
Also, it seems to have helped improve the overall quality of the water. The readings, after testing have shown to be as close to perfect as they've ever been. Still not clear water, but I have high hope it will be. I may have to vacuum some of the bottom of the pond. I'm not sure yet, but I will keep you posted.
Remember too guys...I'm a brand newbie at this pond/fish keeping great hobbie. So keep in mind I'm no expert and a first timer on practically everything I am doing here.
Have a great day,
Susan
There are many "myths" to combatting algae. Using chemicals, ultrasonics, UV, bacteria, salt, straw, aeration, grass carp, etc. The main thing that I got out of a tutorial I viewed was that all these items are merely treating the symptoms and not the underlying cause. Try googling or look up on you tube "5 myths of algae".
Catfishnut
Catfishnut
I am curious and I still have a few questions.
If I tried using the cat litter (pure clay) in a bag does it need to go under my waterfall, or could it go in my skimmer?
What kind of bag would I use, I think I someone said a nylon bag? Like a leg of my wife’s old pantyhose?
Will the clay breakdown and come out of the bag to end up on the bottom of my pond? If so it sounds a lot like wine making; one of the last steps before bottling a white wine is adding a mix of diatomaceous earth and water. You mix it into the wine and when it settles it brings all the sediment to the bottom (and sticks down there like a rock).
I would have to agree there are a lot of “myths” and “magical cures” out there. My understanding has always been that the key to good water is to have enough water movement and plants to keep up with the size of your pond. I am only speaking of a goldfish pond, I understand a Koi pond is a different thing altogether. This will be our 5th full season with this pond and the 2nd full season with our river. Last year was the first year of truly clear water. It was also the first year with proper filtration. Our 5,000 gallon pond was running with a 5,000 gph pump from a skimmer into a Savio bio filter waterfall. When we added the river (about an additional 500 gallons) we added another bio filter running 8,500 gph. The problem with one pump running only a skimmer was that it was only turning the water once an hour and it was only drawing off the top layer of water. The pond is 4 feet deep and the bottom water was not moving. The pump for the river sits on the bottom and we now have great circulation.
The last two ponds I had (much smaller) it was the same thing. It takes some time but once they are established with proper plants and water movement, they take care of themselves. Ha ha, well as well as a pond can take of itself.
Back to the algae. We still had the odd little spot of string algae last year that I would wind up and remove with a stick, as well as a bit on some of the edges of the waterfall. I am hopeful that our pond is maturing and will be even less of a issue this year than last, but if this cat litter will help with the balance and won’t make a mess on the bottom I am willing to give it a try.
If I tried using the cat litter (pure clay) in a bag does it need to go under my waterfall, or could it go in my skimmer?
What kind of bag would I use, I think I someone said a nylon bag? Like a leg of my wife’s old pantyhose?
Will the clay breakdown and come out of the bag to end up on the bottom of my pond? If so it sounds a lot like wine making; one of the last steps before bottling a white wine is adding a mix of diatomaceous earth and water. You mix it into the wine and when it settles it brings all the sediment to the bottom (and sticks down there like a rock).
I would have to agree there are a lot of “myths” and “magical cures” out there. My understanding has always been that the key to good water is to have enough water movement and plants to keep up with the size of your pond. I am only speaking of a goldfish pond, I understand a Koi pond is a different thing altogether. This will be our 5th full season with this pond and the 2nd full season with our river. Last year was the first year of truly clear water. It was also the first year with proper filtration. Our 5,000 gallon pond was running with a 5,000 gph pump from a skimmer into a Savio bio filter waterfall. When we added the river (about an additional 500 gallons) we added another bio filter running 8,500 gph. The problem with one pump running only a skimmer was that it was only turning the water once an hour and it was only drawing off the top layer of water. The pond is 4 feet deep and the bottom water was not moving. The pump for the river sits on the bottom and we now have great circulation.
The last two ponds I had (much smaller) it was the same thing. It takes some time but once they are established with proper plants and water movement, they take care of themselves. Ha ha, well as well as a pond can take of itself.
Back to the algae. We still had the odd little spot of string algae last year that I would wind up and remove with a stick, as well as a bit on some of the edges of the waterfall. I am hopeful that our pond is maturing and will be even less of a issue this year than last, but if this cat litter will help with the balance and won’t make a mess on the bottom I am willing to give it a try.
j.w
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I don't ever think we can keep the algae away completely as it is a natural occurrence but just being able to have something that does work to treat the symptoms and keep it at bay is fine w/me. What I do w/ the wal-mart "Special Kitty" is what it's called litter is I hang it near my falls or put it in my falls container so that the water in there swirls around thru it. I put mine in a sturdy net bag so it can't fall out. I have not noticed mine dissolving but then I haven't looked at it this year yet to see how much is still there. I imagine tho it will be just like past years and still be there. I would think even tho it does not dissolve that it loses its working action so should be replaced yearly. I also use it to pot my water lilies in and it all seems to stay undissolved. The goldfish do kick it around some in the pots so some does end up on the floor of the pond and also if I knock a pot over. Does not hurt my fish that I can see. They are still alive and looking fine after several yrs of using it. If you put it in nylons I don't know if the nylon will rot or rip or what. The one bag I use is really a thistle seed bag used for bird feeding and it is lasting well. So I have found if you use a good strong bag it will not mess up your pond.
Here's a bit more info on the clay and you can use the more expensive stuff they are talking about but I'm having good results w/ the kitty litter.
Cat Litter for Koi Ponds and Water Quality?
Written by With Chris Neaves
Monday, 07 April 2008 21:47
Cat Litter for Koi - by Doc Johnson
SO, finally, Chris Neaves settled down and did the definitive article on this subject, cutting through the CRAP, you know; the "aways" and "never" and "best" assertions made by so many people, and simply boiling it down to fact. I think the following article is superb. Please read, with appropriate gratitude to Chris for putting it all down.
Well, for a while, there were a lot of discussions about cat litter. Someone found out that cat litter was made of Bentonite. Then some air head said that clinoptilolite was better. Then a smarter person noted that these compounds are one-and-the-same. Then the discussion turned to whether kitty litter could be used as a water conditioning clay, for ion exchange, for donation of carbonate alkalinity and for donation of valuable minerals. People did some damage to their fish with scented litters. Then people honed in on the "good ones" to try.
Hi, Some clarification is needed here. First off… clumping kitty litters are Sodium or Calcium Bentonite clay…. Montmorillionite clay…all the same thing. Kitty litter's can be used but are not generally recommended. The large size of the particles makes them hard to dissolve and they can clog up bottom drains and plumbing. They generally are not very pure either.
There are a number of products on the market such as Refine and Refresh that are much better. They are very pure and a very fine powder. You can get clay from a number of other sources also…Foundry's, mining companies, drilling companies, etc.
They help with water clarity and the mineral content of the water, but they will do nothing to help with ulcers.
Here's an article by Chris Neaves from South Africa on clays. Tom Lansing re-posted this, for another person, the other day on the NI board.
Lots of good info.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good morning to all,
I agree with Tom's assessment of bentonite being a natural safe additive to the pond. Although bentonite works very well be careful of magic claims.
In reply to the questions on montmorillonite on the message board regarding clay I post this essay again -
The description of montmorillonite is :- one of a number of clay minerals within the Smectite Group. It forms by weathering or hydrothermal alteration of other aluminum-rich minerals, and is particularly common in altered volcanic ashes called bentonites.
The description of bentonite is :- a native, colloidal, hydrated, non-metallic mineral of the Smectite Group that is primarily composed of the mineral montmorillonite.
And further - Montmorillonite is a member of the general mineral group - the clays. It is the main constituent in a volcanic ash called bentonite.
One of the confusing aspect of commercially available montmorillonite clays is the use of two names for exactly the same mineral.
Montmorillonite clays are bentonite clays and bentonite clays are montmorillonite clays. They are not two separate minerals as we think. They are one and the same thing. All types of bentonite clays are grouped together under the Montmorillonite or Smectite group of clays. To speak of one is to speak of the other.
Marketing of various brand names using the different terminology for the same thing, in the same text, is often responsible for the confusion that arises.
Montmorillonite was named after its discovery locality, Montmorillon, France in the 1800's. Bentonite was named after Fort Benton, Montana, near which it was discovered.
It is typically white, grey, or buff in colour but may have tints of yellow, pink, or blue. Montmorillonite has a pearly or dull lustre and is translucent. Montmorillonite clays are mined in various parts of the world. Deposits are found in Italy, Greece. Cyprus, the Philippines, South Africa, Brazil, England, Japan, Romania, Germany, Mexico, Argentina, Spain, India, Hungary, Poland, Canada, Turkey, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, and Texas.
Various purities are found in different regions. In some parts of the world montmorillonite clays were formed during the Jurassic period many millions of years ago. Others originate from later periods. Just like all minerals in the earth, the quality of the deposit will vary from area to area and country to country. Whilst some are of excellent quality others are not very pure.
Because montmorillonite clay is used as a human health food as well as in the fish industry, claims by health experts make interesting reading. An average mineral analysis of Montmorillonite by health experts demonstrate it contains no less than 67 minerals, including vital trace minerals. Recently it has been recognized and utilized by the cosmetic industry and by soil experts, who value it as an exceptionally good agricultural enhancement: crops grow faster, taste better, and are more resistant to disease.
Montmorillonite contains a balance of minerals in their natural colloidal form, making it easily assimilated. The minerals present in montmorillonite enhance the production of enzymes in all living organisms.
Some deposits contain only 30% - 40% of its base elements (montmorillonite). This is considered a low grade in the mining industry. In order to improve the grading (purity) some products have to be refined or processed. The other 60% - 70% of unwanted material has to be removed. Only after refinement does it achieve a 80 or 90% purity as claimed.
Montmorillonite are naturally mineral rich clays, formed many millions of years ago under certain geological conditions - therefore, it appears that some products have a percentage of minerals added to bring the quality up to an acceptable level.
There are several forms of montmorillonite available on the market. Some products are a pure montmorillonite clay. Others are a less pure form and have to be processed to remove and eliminate impurities they are mined with. Some claim to have bacteria additives. Some may have additives to the clay such as extra minerals, above what is naturally found in the clay. Whilst others are a montmorillonite clay / zeolite powder formulations.
Montmorillonite clays, depending of the chemical composition and purity, enhances water quality, replenish and enhance minerals and remove certain unwanted wastes. The uses and benefits go further than this. Montmorillonite improves the lustre and skin quality of koi as well as heightening the colour. Added to food it is claimed to aid digestion and increase the koi’s ability to assimilate the vitamins and minerals required in their diet.
Some claims are made that organic waste such as DOC will be removed from the pond. The ionic exchange capacity is increased. i.e. The scum on the pond can be reduced and perhaps eliminated by using Montmorillonite.
The idea that Montmorillonite clays could be used in the remineralisation of ponds originate in Japan. Natural mud ponds are lined with bentonite to seal them. It was also discovered that feeding small quantities to koi and occasionally bathing then in it or adding regulated dosages to the pond resulted in wonderful and significant effects on their colour and lustre.
Montmorillonite can be easily added to your daily ration of food in small quantities. This is an excellent idea as it will replicate the koi feeding continuously off minute mineral rich particles on the floor of mud dams.
By treating Montmorillonite with soda ash, the meta-bentonite Sodium Bentonite, can absorb water and swell to about 20 times their dry volume and give rise to permanent suspensions of gellike masses. The sub-bentonites, containing calcium become Calcium Bentonite or Montmorillonite, do not swell to this extent but are still capable of absorbing from their surrounding at a phenomenal rate and contain as many minerals as Sodium bentonite. Calcium bentonites are nonswelling and break down to a finely granular aggregate that is widely used as an absorbent clay.
Bentonite/Montmorillonite is used to seal dams, in bonding foundry sands, asbestos, and mineral wool, as drilling muds, in portland cements and concrete, ceramics, emulsions, insecticides, soaps, pharmaceuticals, and paints, in the manufacture of paper, for clarifying water, juices, and liquors, and as a water softener to remove calcium from hard water, removing colour from mineral and vegetable oils, also used as catalyst supports and absorbents in petroleum refining
The montmorillonite minerals are composed of hydrous aluminum silicates in the form of extremely small particles. They take up water between their layers, causing swelling, and change the interlayer spacing according to the mineral variety. In addition to being involved in inorganic exchange reactions, they react with and absorb some organic liquids, such as amines, glycols, glycerols, and other polyhydric alcohols.
For the koi hobbyist montmorillonite is used directly in the pond water each week in the recommended dosage. Some types disperse more easily than others. Some have to be mixed with water before application whilst others can be sprinkled directly onto the pond surface. The pond will clear in about 6 - 10 hours, depending on the amount of organic material in the pond, but the montmorillonite will remain active. Do not be worried in a new pond if the water does not clear in a day or two. The organic material such as algae is limited in new ponds.
Also the clay can be mixed with the food. Coat damp pellets lightly with montmorillonite. Feed a few times a week. Montmorillonite also makes a wonderful, cheap face pack. Try washing your hands with it - the skin feels wonderful afterwards.
Regards,
Chris Neaves
Here's a bit more info on the clay and you can use the more expensive stuff they are talking about but I'm having good results w/ the kitty litter.
Cat Litter for Koi Ponds and Water Quality?
Written by With Chris Neaves
Monday, 07 April 2008 21:47
Cat Litter for Koi - by Doc Johnson
SO, finally, Chris Neaves settled down and did the definitive article on this subject, cutting through the CRAP, you know; the "aways" and "never" and "best" assertions made by so many people, and simply boiling it down to fact. I think the following article is superb. Please read, with appropriate gratitude to Chris for putting it all down.
Well, for a while, there were a lot of discussions about cat litter. Someone found out that cat litter was made of Bentonite. Then some air head said that clinoptilolite was better. Then a smarter person noted that these compounds are one-and-the-same. Then the discussion turned to whether kitty litter could be used as a water conditioning clay, for ion exchange, for donation of carbonate alkalinity and for donation of valuable minerals. People did some damage to their fish with scented litters. Then people honed in on the "good ones" to try.
Hi, Some clarification is needed here. First off… clumping kitty litters are Sodium or Calcium Bentonite clay…. Montmorillionite clay…all the same thing. Kitty litter's can be used but are not generally recommended. The large size of the particles makes them hard to dissolve and they can clog up bottom drains and plumbing. They generally are not very pure either.
There are a number of products on the market such as Refine and Refresh that are much better. They are very pure and a very fine powder. You can get clay from a number of other sources also…Foundry's, mining companies, drilling companies, etc.
They help with water clarity and the mineral content of the water, but they will do nothing to help with ulcers.
Here's an article by Chris Neaves from South Africa on clays. Tom Lansing re-posted this, for another person, the other day on the NI board.
Lots of good info.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good morning to all,
I agree with Tom's assessment of bentonite being a natural safe additive to the pond. Although bentonite works very well be careful of magic claims.
In reply to the questions on montmorillonite on the message board regarding clay I post this essay again -
The description of montmorillonite is :- one of a number of clay minerals within the Smectite Group. It forms by weathering or hydrothermal alteration of other aluminum-rich minerals, and is particularly common in altered volcanic ashes called bentonites.
The description of bentonite is :- a native, colloidal, hydrated, non-metallic mineral of the Smectite Group that is primarily composed of the mineral montmorillonite.
And further - Montmorillonite is a member of the general mineral group - the clays. It is the main constituent in a volcanic ash called bentonite.
One of the confusing aspect of commercially available montmorillonite clays is the use of two names for exactly the same mineral.
Montmorillonite clays are bentonite clays and bentonite clays are montmorillonite clays. They are not two separate minerals as we think. They are one and the same thing. All types of bentonite clays are grouped together under the Montmorillonite or Smectite group of clays. To speak of one is to speak of the other.
Marketing of various brand names using the different terminology for the same thing, in the same text, is often responsible for the confusion that arises.
Montmorillonite was named after its discovery locality, Montmorillon, France in the 1800's. Bentonite was named after Fort Benton, Montana, near which it was discovered.
It is typically white, grey, or buff in colour but may have tints of yellow, pink, or blue. Montmorillonite has a pearly or dull lustre and is translucent. Montmorillonite clays are mined in various parts of the world. Deposits are found in Italy, Greece. Cyprus, the Philippines, South Africa, Brazil, England, Japan, Romania, Germany, Mexico, Argentina, Spain, India, Hungary, Poland, Canada, Turkey, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, and Texas.
Various purities are found in different regions. In some parts of the world montmorillonite clays were formed during the Jurassic period many millions of years ago. Others originate from later periods. Just like all minerals in the earth, the quality of the deposit will vary from area to area and country to country. Whilst some are of excellent quality others are not very pure.
Because montmorillonite clay is used as a human health food as well as in the fish industry, claims by health experts make interesting reading. An average mineral analysis of Montmorillonite by health experts demonstrate it contains no less than 67 minerals, including vital trace minerals. Recently it has been recognized and utilized by the cosmetic industry and by soil experts, who value it as an exceptionally good agricultural enhancement: crops grow faster, taste better, and are more resistant to disease.
Montmorillonite contains a balance of minerals in their natural colloidal form, making it easily assimilated. The minerals present in montmorillonite enhance the production of enzymes in all living organisms.
Some deposits contain only 30% - 40% of its base elements (montmorillonite). This is considered a low grade in the mining industry. In order to improve the grading (purity) some products have to be refined or processed. The other 60% - 70% of unwanted material has to be removed. Only after refinement does it achieve a 80 or 90% purity as claimed.
Montmorillonite are naturally mineral rich clays, formed many millions of years ago under certain geological conditions - therefore, it appears that some products have a percentage of minerals added to bring the quality up to an acceptable level.
There are several forms of montmorillonite available on the market. Some products are a pure montmorillonite clay. Others are a less pure form and have to be processed to remove and eliminate impurities they are mined with. Some claim to have bacteria additives. Some may have additives to the clay such as extra minerals, above what is naturally found in the clay. Whilst others are a montmorillonite clay / zeolite powder formulations.
Montmorillonite clays, depending of the chemical composition and purity, enhances water quality, replenish and enhance minerals and remove certain unwanted wastes. The uses and benefits go further than this. Montmorillonite improves the lustre and skin quality of koi as well as heightening the colour. Added to food it is claimed to aid digestion and increase the koi’s ability to assimilate the vitamins and minerals required in their diet.
Some claims are made that organic waste such as DOC will be removed from the pond. The ionic exchange capacity is increased. i.e. The scum on the pond can be reduced and perhaps eliminated by using Montmorillonite.
The idea that Montmorillonite clays could be used in the remineralisation of ponds originate in Japan. Natural mud ponds are lined with bentonite to seal them. It was also discovered that feeding small quantities to koi and occasionally bathing then in it or adding regulated dosages to the pond resulted in wonderful and significant effects on their colour and lustre.
Montmorillonite can be easily added to your daily ration of food in small quantities. This is an excellent idea as it will replicate the koi feeding continuously off minute mineral rich particles on the floor of mud dams.
By treating Montmorillonite with soda ash, the meta-bentonite Sodium Bentonite, can absorb water and swell to about 20 times their dry volume and give rise to permanent suspensions of gellike masses. The sub-bentonites, containing calcium become Calcium Bentonite or Montmorillonite, do not swell to this extent but are still capable of absorbing from their surrounding at a phenomenal rate and contain as many minerals as Sodium bentonite. Calcium bentonites are nonswelling and break down to a finely granular aggregate that is widely used as an absorbent clay.
Bentonite/Montmorillonite is used to seal dams, in bonding foundry sands, asbestos, and mineral wool, as drilling muds, in portland cements and concrete, ceramics, emulsions, insecticides, soaps, pharmaceuticals, and paints, in the manufacture of paper, for clarifying water, juices, and liquors, and as a water softener to remove calcium from hard water, removing colour from mineral and vegetable oils, also used as catalyst supports and absorbents in petroleum refining
The montmorillonite minerals are composed of hydrous aluminum silicates in the form of extremely small particles. They take up water between their layers, causing swelling, and change the interlayer spacing according to the mineral variety. In addition to being involved in inorganic exchange reactions, they react with and absorb some organic liquids, such as amines, glycols, glycerols, and other polyhydric alcohols.
For the koi hobbyist montmorillonite is used directly in the pond water each week in the recommended dosage. Some types disperse more easily than others. Some have to be mixed with water before application whilst others can be sprinkled directly onto the pond surface. The pond will clear in about 6 - 10 hours, depending on the amount of organic material in the pond, but the montmorillonite will remain active. Do not be worried in a new pond if the water does not clear in a day or two. The organic material such as algae is limited in new ponds.
Also the clay can be mixed with the food. Coat damp pellets lightly with montmorillonite. Feed a few times a week. Montmorillonite also makes a wonderful, cheap face pack. Try washing your hands with it - the skin feels wonderful afterwards.
Regards,
Chris Neaves
It’s all very interesting and worth trying, due to the low cost. I know about the seed bags you are talking about. I would need about 2.5lbs of litter do you think it would fit in one of those bags? I would also think it would be ok up in my river where the water is flowing over it?
I must repot my lilies this year as well, we have not done it yet and the rhizomes are over a foot long. Up here in Toronto the earth is clay, I just used the worst of the worst soil in the yard to pot the lilies. When we repot I will use litter.
jlreed59
Mile High Ponder
Thanks everyone for the great information. Here is my 2013 plan for my 1500 gal gold fish pond!
* Pond 2500 Dispenser System - releases beneficial bacteria for 1 month (comes with 2 month supply). Just put the despenser on the bottom of the pond.
* PondPerfect Multi Purpose Biological Pond Treatment - 2 oz per week
* NEW BIO-BLOX Filter Media & filter pad for waterfall filter
* Blue Saphire Pond Shade
* I will use old filter media from waterfall in UV bio filter next year
* Plants will add several more to pond on shelf going around pond outside edge
* Add regular aireation system and get rid of bubbler pump.
I do not endorse any of these products - I am still pondering the kitty litter :razz:
Is this overkill or what :twisted:
* Pond 2500 Dispenser System - releases beneficial bacteria for 1 month (comes with 2 month supply). Just put the despenser on the bottom of the pond.
* PondPerfect Multi Purpose Biological Pond Treatment - 2 oz per week
* NEW BIO-BLOX Filter Media & filter pad for waterfall filter
* Blue Saphire Pond Shade
* I will use old filter media from waterfall in UV bio filter next year
* Plants will add several more to pond on shelf going around pond outside edge
* Add regular aireation system and get rid of bubbler pump.
I do not endorse any of these products - I am still pondering the kitty litter :razz:
Is this overkill or what :twisted:
j.w
I Love my Goldies
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I'm not sure if that much will fit. I think a quart might. You might be able to find some other kind of a net bag that will hold more or make one out of the fiberglass screen door material they sell at the hardware stores. I get mine at Lowes in a roll of black but don't know if you have those stores where you are. Do you have Wal-mart there as they sell that 100% kitty litter called "Special Kitty" for under $5. for 25lbs. Make sure any kind you buy is 100% clay and not additives like w/perfume etc.Event Horizon said: