Looking for advice (not pond related) of a home construction nature adding a vent hood for stove (2 story house)


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3" AND OR 4" i would use 4 myself ... Two musts you have to have, a back damper.,. this stops the outside air from blowing in when the fan is not on and potentially blowing out the flames or blowing them to where they are not to be . The other and this should not be a problem is to use to strong a blower as it can do the reverse and pull flames up to the duct. that was in the note at 400 cfm . FOR THE LONG LENGTH DON'T LET ANYONE TALK YOU OUT OF GOING WITH A HARD PIPE . It can be a little tricky to snake in the hard pipe but like i said before taping a pvc pipe to the hard pipe that is nothing more then thin wall aluminum So a couple 10 foot pvc pipes will work perfectly PUSH THE PIPE TO THE END AND JUST PULL THE TAPE OFF FROM THE pvc PIPE WHEN IT GETS TO THE OTHER END . IT'S MUCH LIKE USING AN ELECTRICAL SNAKE. again I'M A BIT RUSTY on my codes but pvc pipe may be acceptable as they are using it for direct vent gas stoves. you may be able to go with that. to run across the floor joist bay.

Using a flex line like a dryer vent hose will do the same as a dryer vent and the folds will build up with lint and grease and that's a problem down the road. thus smooth hard pipe is all i would use. Today who knows they may require a thicker guage pipe i don't know but your gc should

It looks doable I was a G.C for 20 years Glad i gave you some hope.

That is a single family and not a condo yes? condos will require permissions IE i'll never live in a condo again.
 
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@GBBUDD I guess, to paraphrase my above post…..I don’t know all that stuff in the spaces between the floors looks like, so it’s hard for me to picture where anything would go. We have crazy high ceilings, if that makes a difference in any way (probably not, as the space between the 1st and 2nd floors is likely a standard spacing).
You just want to hope that there's no pipes running across the ceiling or that the drain trap from a tub for example is in the bay. but even if there is that will just force your had to close in the space / valance above the cabinets.

wouldn't be the first time i traded vacation stay for services lol yes I aM hoe one that wears a tool belt instead of a garter belt
 
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This honestly looks very very doable even to my non-construction brain. It definitley appears you have a straight shot to the outside. The only challenge will be where to conceal the venting. And it's really not that big. Like I said, we had big soffit over our stove so I assumed the venting was enormous... not even close!
 

Mmathis

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@GBBUDD @Lisak1 @addy1 — and everyone else who contributed: THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I feel so much more confident…empowered…and hopeful!

NOW, next step: can you provide me with some insight into the process of selecting a good contractor? What questions should I be asking them so that I can evaluate their “competence“ (for lack of a better word) with this? And, most important, what ANSWERS should I be looking for? How can I be sure they are following code (ie safety) and not feeding me BS?

We have a contractor in mind, but I’d like to have at least 2 or 3 to choose from. Again, at this point, I’m more interested in safety and function (remove the hazard), and overall result, and less about the immediate aesthetic. IOW, get the basics taken care of now, and worry about making it pretty later on.
 
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I suggest you call your local city / town building code department and ask what the code is: clearance over the gas cook top, what's behind it on the wall, how long the vent run can be, what size and materials for the vent, and what pitch it has to be. See if you need a building permit. Then, ask each contractor what the code is (should know walking in the door) and how he/she will address it to be in compliance. Of course, ask for references, require them to be licensed and insured and check the Better Biz Bureau. Every good contractor I've ever used has always added, "once we open the walls and see what's behind there, there may be surprises. I just won't know until we get there." Good luck.
 

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I suggest you call your local city / town building code department and ask what the code is: clearance over the gas cook top, what's behind it on the wall, how long the vent run can be, what size and materials for the vent, and what pitch it has to be. See if you need a building permit. Then, ask each contractor what the code is (should know walking in the door) and how he/she will address it to be in compliance. Of course, ask for references, require them to be licensed and insured and check the Better Biz Bureau. Every good contractor I've ever used has always added, "once we open the walls and see what's behind there, there may be surprises. I just won't know until we get there." Good luck.
Thank you — excellent advice!
 
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once we open the walls and see what's behind there, there may be surprises. I just won't know until we get there."
That's not a bs line... like i said there could be plumbing or electrical in the way . it's even a possibility to have a heating or cooling duct you just don't know until. I can always take a guestimate what might be where from experience but i have seen some dumb stuff over the years you just never know.

I provided the link to one of the code enforcement pages that i got online in a matter of five minutes. I'd do a little more reserch as to the type of pipe they will allow. that will help seperate who knows what and the size of the pipe.

As far as the contractor they should spit out pretty quick what needs to be done or at least options. if they come up with well im not sure , or we have to rip down the whole celling . They are more for ease and less for taking care of the customer.

Protection to the area is another key aspect to the project.

The need for a damper / back draft key but simple aspect.

24" height from the top of the stove is minimal distance and a key to if they know what they are talking about.

A kitchen company or gc that also does kitchens is a good area to start though won't be the cheapest
 
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That's not a bs line... like i said there could be plumbing or electrical in the way . it's even a possibility to have a heating or cooling duct you just don't know until. I can always take a guestimate what might be where from experience but i have seen some dumb stuff over the years you just never know.

So very true! My sister wanted a window installed over her sink. Contractor looked it over - no problem. Started the work to remove the wall and found a random plumbing stack had been routed down the wall, took a sharp left, and ran right through the spot where the window was to go. So she got to kill two birds with one stone! And spend lots more money! haha! But the truth is unless you built it you have no idea what crazy idea some guy had on a random Tuesday to solve a problem that he was too lazy to do the right way.
 
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oNE OTHER MENTION ANY HOME BUILT BEFORE 1970 was built by DRUNKS functioning drunks but none the less i have opened up many a wall in older homes and found flasks with alcohol still in it . empty whiskey bottles etc so you ask why did they do that the answer is your trying to reason with someone who had a good buzz at the time the answer is why question it is what it is
 
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oNE OTHER MENTION ANY HOME BUILT BEFORE 1970

Our house was built in 1990 and built by drunks. We'd come on the weekends and clean up lots and lots and lots of cans and bottles. They hired a lot of day workers and I think probably paid them in beer.
 
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That's why people don't know what to think when they get to know me. I'm a big time biker and construction guy who they expect drinks like a fish . But I don't drink. Not because of aa or anything I just don't need the buzz to be happy or a happy grump as my wife would say. I had plenty of days with a buzz on back in high school.
 

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My BIL is not in construction, or anything related, but he is very detail-oriented, and OCD. One of his “hobbies” is to design houses based on practicality. They have had several built over the years (they live in them a while, then sell…). One of the things he does is oversees and records the location of EVERY wall socket, and maps out where EVERY electrical wire and every plumbing pipe (etc.) is located in walls and ceilings. He will spend as much time as he can on-site to “be sure the ’ethnic people’ do it right.“

Anyway, 2 houses ago, there was an empty lot next door that was being developed and purpose-built for a couple of ladies (don’t go there — don’t know and don’t care). My BIL who is a friendly, helpful, and observant guy was outside one day and noticed that the guys were setting up to pour the foundation…… (framing stage, maybe? I don’t recall details), but they had the orientation of the house flip-flopped (think of d instead of b). :0! OMG! :0! Disaster averted! Can you imagine?
 
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You a happy grump??????????????? good to know!
Let's just say I have never been mistaken for being gleeful and gay "the truesence of the word"

I was asked to move a foundation once because they flipped the whole lot the survey crew flipped the west and east walls so when they staked the west wall it was realy the east . Then they measured off the west wall toward the east which was off the property. The foundation was poured on the wrong property. And yes we moved the entire foundation some 4 months latter the land owner was very lucky the neighbor was beyond a nice guy . And that the house was just a rectangle no basement
 
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Mmathis

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To @GBBUDD et al, here’s an update. Things happen slowly in this household, LOL! We haven’t taken any action yet, but hubby and I have discussed it in depth and I think we’re finally on the same page. Keeping our fingers crossed that the anatomy of the walls and craw space between the first and 2nd floors will be cooperative. In the meantime, well, we don’t cook that much on the stove, so we’re exercising caution (hubby prefers to grill outside, and we use the ovens more so than we do the cooktop). Next step will be to purchase a new countertop microwave and remove the existing one. Baby steps. I’ll keep you posted.
 

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