I feel like Im going in the wrong direction.....


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The seam wont be submerged. I didn't account for adding liner to the waterfall area so I needed join 2 liners together. The actual overlap should be roughly 12 inches above the waterline. I would have liked to return the original liner but returns were not accepted. @Gbbudd2 I also saw that video you posted a while ago. The materials used in that video are very expensive compared to a 7$ tube of loctite. I don't think I need to go that route.

Liner should be going in either tomorrow or the next day. Had to run a new electrical line to make some outdoor outlets. Also had to bite the bullet and purchase the rocks from a masonry supplier. Decent price I suppose but I had no other options. Slowly but surely...

On another note, still planning on a goldfish pond. Ive had fish tanks in the past ranging from 3-75 gallons and have always used Tetra safestart to get a new tank up and running. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with pond cycling. Can someone point me in the right direction from experience?

Anygood for jumpstarting the cycling process?

 
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addy1

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A lot of cycle a pond by filling it up and just letting it run. Get a api test kit and check the water.

I cycled my last small pond, a old hot tub, by adding water, plants, crushed oyster shells, (we have acidic soft well water) I then let it run for around two weeks. After that I added a few fan tails, small, like 9. They all did great.

The plants were from my big pond so they brought beneficial bacteria with them.

I have never used bought bacteria so can't help you with that.
 
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The seam wont be submerged. I didn't account for adding liner to the waterfall area so I needed join 2 liners together. The actual overlap should be roughly 12 inches above the waterline. I would have liked to return the original liner but returns were not accepted. @Gbbudd2 I also saw that video you posted a while ago. The materials used in that video are very expensive compared to a 7$ tube of loctite. I don't think I need to go that route.

Liner should be going in either tomorrow or the next day. Had to run a new electrical line to make some outdoor outlets. Also had to bite the bullet and purchase the rocks from a masonry supplier. Decent price I suppose but I had no other options. Slowly but surely...

On another note, still planning on a goldfish pond. Ive had fish tanks in the past ranging from 3-75 gallons and have always used Tetra safestart to get a new tank up and running. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with pond cycling. Can someone point me in the right direction from experience?

Anygood for jumpstarting the cycling process?

i swear by safestart and other similar products it was a little rough in the beginning but i also knew i was cycling the pond and i fed the fish well for the waste to get the cycle started but i also have a huge bog. but when the fish stared flashing and i started to see some scrapes i added start right in large quantity like 2 of there big bottles i think it was 64 oz it made noticeable differences almost immediately . Again that was just in the beginning i don't add anything any more that was short lived.
 
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A little more progress. Ill tell ya what, that underlayment goes in real easy.....but that liner was such pain WOW. I was trying my best to avoid huge creases and I wanted the bottom to be relatively smooth and crease free. Not sure if its possible lol...or really matters.

I talked myself out of doing the enitre pond with rocks and tried to go with the suggestions in this thread about the small shelf around the top perimeter to hide the liner. I may have went a bit too far and wound up using almost the entire first shelf for larger rocks followed by smaller ones up top. I was also planning on covering the floor with gravel and putting several random large/medium rocks on the floor. I lost my plant shelf and I really have no idea if this layout is going to look strange.

As far as the plant shelf goes, do I really need it? I found this picture below online. Perhaphs floating plants and deep water plants will work for me? It might not look it from my picture but there are some areas on top of the large rocks that are rather flat and could hold a potted plant.

Be honest, is this layout going to look awkard if left as is? (Gravel floor is coming)
Leave it alone and work on the waterfall?
Remove all the rocks and start over?
Bite the bullet and buy more rocks to line the entire pond?
 

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Be honest, is this layout going to look awkard if left as is? (Gravel floor is coming) along with the gravel floor place a couple larger rocks as focal points and place hornwart or similar along side them or tuck them under a smaller rock to the side at deeper depths the eye can be tricked in not seeing the edge of the pond as the black looks infinite.
Leave it alone and work on the waterfall?
Remove all the rocks and start over? instead of planning a plant shelf that looks totally artificial try making some gaps between the rock and tuck the plants in the gaps trust me it will look very realistic but be careful what plants you choose some grow so fast it can become an issue trying to remove them.
Bite the bullet and buy more rocks to line the entire pond? More rock is always a good choice the more the liner is protected the longer it will last. and be mindful of any sharp or pointed rock. I would not place gravel at the bottom on the liner.
 
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in addition to the rocks that I already have, I have this rather large 30" flat stone and this red rock that I don't really know what it is. I'd like to incorporate them both into the waterfall area. I was thinking the flat one would be best to somehow position over the top of the waterfall or in front of it. I'm not really sure where to put this Red Rock. Any ideas
 

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addy1

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Like gbbudd says move a few of the shelf rocks, put some plants in among them. You still have a plant shelf just need to plant differently. Most water plants will grow just fine without a pot. They will send roots down into the rocks. So plant what you want to stay there unless, down the road, you are ready to move rocks to get the roots yanked out. I have free plants in my pond they do just fine. I do keep them in check by removing some now and then.

The red rock, find a good focal spot for it.

Personally I would not line the entire pond with rocks, it removes a lot of water room for the fish. The liner gets coated where you can hardly tell it is a liner. You can see the bottom here, naked liner. Well not naked any longer.
20190421_130557.jpg
 
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cas

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Perhaphs floating plants and deep water plants will work for me?
That is what I thought too, but I kept having trouble with green water (suspended algae). What I ended up doing was removing some of the rock on the edge to place a pot, planted plants bare root between the rocks, and made a shelf in the pond by adding large rocks to place pots on.

Plants - how planted.JPG
 
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@cas that picture really helps explain what I need to do.

As with all this pond related building, I am learning as I go. I have read that people sometimes have to remove certain plants for the winter and take them inside. Are there plants that can be utilized for a pond that could be left in the pond year-round and survive winter freezing temps? Or maybe not thrive in the winter but rather come back to life in the spring?
 

cas

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Most marginal pond plants can be left in the pond. I don't know your planting zone so can't say for sure, but the only plants I needed to worry about were tropical water lilies and taro. Too much work so I don't have either now. The list of hardy water lilies and marginal pond plants is huge. I have yellow flag iris, blue flag iris, aquatic mint, forget-me-nots, and blue rush currently which all handle the winter well.
 
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Most marginal pond plants can be left in the pond. I don't know your planting zone so can't say for sure, but the only plants I needed to worry about were tropical water lilies and taro. Too much work so I don't have either now. The list of hardy water lilies and marginal pond plants is huge. I have yellow flag iris, blue flag iris, aquatic mint, forget-me-nots, and blue rush currently which all handle the winter well.
I'm in zone 6b (northeastern PA) and also have most of the same plants. I will add Lizard Tail and Marsh Marigold to the list. They all come back in the spring, even after they freeze solid. Creeping Jenny will come back if it's planted in the surrounding soil.
In the Fall I cut everything down to about an inch or two. You dont want the dead rotting leaves and stems to pollute your water.
 
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