Holding tank

[Tiffany]

I'm thinking of buying more koi, what do I need to know about the holding tank? I know no chlorine, and add salt, and needs to be airated, anything elese?

 

[sissy]

How big are the koi you are getting ,you may need a filter set up also .A crate ontop of a crate with a small pump with hose going into the top crate with quilt batting as the filter media .do not feed them much and if you can use water from your own pond it is better for them

 

[Mmathis]

I considered my quarantine tank to just be a miniature version of a pond: filtration, aeration, water testing, water changes when necessary (if filtration isn’t adequate). So, water test kit, pump, filter...... Use caution with salt. It has its place with quarantine, but some people use it as a dip, some add it to their QT (look up appropriate concentration levels), some don’t use salt at all.

Be sure the tank is an adequate size for the number of fish you will have. Be sure it’s deep enough to keep the water from overheating in warm temps. For koi, you might consider a cover (netting or screening) as they can jump out of a confined space — also a cover is great against predators. They will be living there for at least a month.

What kind of pond set up do you have right now, for your current pond? How big is it (gallons and dimensions) and how many koi do you already have (and what size are they)? How are you filtering it? How long has it been up and running?

 

[Mmathis]

@Tiffany Did you ever resolve your previous issues? Be sure you have those identified and addressed before you jump in again. Patience is the hardest part about pond keeping!
https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/sick-fish.23898/

 

[carolinaguy]

I considered my quarantine tank to just be a miniature version of a pond: filtration, aeration, water testing, water changes when necessary (if filtration isn’t adequate). So, water test kit, pump, filter...... Use caution with salt. It has its place with quarantine, but some people use it as a dip, some add it to their QT (look up appropriate concentration levels), some don’t use salt at all.

Be sure the tank is an adequate size for the number of fish you will have. Be sure it’s deep enough to keep the water from overheating in warm temps. For koi, you might consider a cover (netting or screening) as they can jump out of a confined space — also a cover is great against predators. They will be living there for at least a month.

What kind of pond set up do you have right now, for your current pond? How big is it (gallons and dimensions) and how many koi do you already have (and what size are they)? How are you filtering it? How long has it been up and running?

good information. the specific comment on salt is appropriate. salt is not automatic. there are several quarantine approaches, and salt dip is one. there are other dips like potassium permaganate too. the tank itself needs no salt, especially if you plan to use other antibacterial, anti worm, and anti crustacean agents. the quarantine tank is just a motel away from home. put a current resident in with them because parasites not only move from newbies to residents but also residents to newbies. heating to 75 degrees, i like 80, is the test for KHV, so a heater is needed. if not filtration, plan frequent water changes. a net is important if the water is within 4 inches of the top just because the most expensive fish always jumps out at 2AM. use lots of air especially with chemical treatment agents.

 

[Tiffany]

I have an outside pond that measures 12 ft diameter, deepest part is 4 ft, there are probably 20 goldfish in that one with 3 koi, 2 small, (3") and one 6". I have an inside pond that's one of the plastic inserts, probably 4'×2', maybe 2' .deep, I have 4 goldfish and 7 koi, they are about 4 to5" each, I want be adding to them, I just sat up another pond getting ready to get the other fish, it's a plastic insert also and it's out side, that was gonna be my holding tank, the big pond is where they will go once they are ready. The large pond has been set up for a good 8 years, we got overloaded on gold fish for a while, but have decreased the numbers now, my inside pond is 3 years old. I think I answered all your queations if not let me know but as far as the test kits, I've never tested my ponds before, what should they read? Thanks for your help

 

[Tiffany]

Oh and as far as my earlier issues I have 2 in the holding pond and I want buy from that guy again, I think he has way too many fish in his ponds, he has believe it or not, 7 ponds, acres big ponds but they are loaded with koi, seriously there has to be 1000 or more in there, I'm not exaggerating

 

[carolinaguy]

lots of questions. Lots of information. Lots of questions on our end I’m sure, sounds like a fun place, and folks will be clamoring for pictures.

Testing? There actually are different schools of thought surprisingly, so anything I say will be challenged by folks in the other pews. Definitely temperature, ammonia, and pH. Nitrite occasionally especially during start up. There is the zero ammonia group and zero nitrite group. pH needs to be above 7.0, a basic solution because koi blood is around 7.2. At 6.5 there is a respiration problem and sometimes the pond will crash and drop maybe 1.0 or worse, so you want a buffer to protect against 4.5 water. Ammonia goal is zero but you can’t get there in a typical pond, because the doggone fish pee ammonia ( how rude of them), so there is residual ammonia in the pond that hasn’t passed through the filter. Our pond typically runs at 0.125 ammonia because we maintain a high stocking ratio. A championship pond will run to zero, since there is typically 1000 gallons of water per fish. Champion pond chemistry won’t work for your ponds. I’ve seen lingering 0.25 nitrite because of our fish load but it is usually close to zero. Nitrite is not a good compound to have around, but 0.25 is not a panc level unless the fish start gasping at the surface. Some purists measure KH. This is where I get stoned. I’m not a KH measuring guy. pH is enough for me because we buffer our pond. If you test for anything else you need a specific reason due to your location. If you use well water, your pH might be 9plus normally. Not terrible but there can be problems. 75 degrees is beach weather for koi. 96 degrees is the saraha and borders on dangerous. 48 degrees is the cut off point where fish can’t digest food. 33 degrees will kill them.

 

[sissy]

tiffany you have way to many fish and koi can get huge and water quality and the adding the fact that they will have babies

 

[Lisak1]

@Tiffany - why are you thinking of buying more koi? If my count is right, you already have 10 koi of varying sizes and a bunch of goldfish. If your pond is 12 feet in diameter (round I'm assuming) and and let's GUESS an average depth of 3 feet, you have a 2000 gallon pond. You're already fully stocked once you get all those fish in the pond. Your smaller "insert" ponds are not big enough for koi. So why buy more?

Second question - this guy you are buying from, are you insinuating that he doesn't know proper koi keeping by saying he has too many fish in his ponds? And if that's the case, why would you take the chance of buying from someone who may be selling you mis-handled fish?

 

[Mmathis]

@Tiffany - why are you thinking of buying more koi? If my count is right, you already have 10 koi of varying sizes and a bunch of goldfish. If your pond is 12 feet in diameter (round I'm assuming) and and let's GUESS an average depth of 3 feet, you have a 2000 gallon pond. You're already fully stocked once you get all those fish in the pond. Your smaller "insert" ponds are not big enough for koi. So why buy more?

Second question - this guy you are buying from, are you insinuating that he doesn't know proper koi keeping by saying he has too many fish in his ponds? And if that's the case, why would you take the chance of buying from someone who may be selling you mis-handled fish?

......that you’ve already had a negative experience with......

 

[Mmathis]

@Tiffany Can you post a few pictures of your ponds for us — all of them? I’m thinking that if you could show us what your ponds (multiple) look like it will help us get a grasp on what you are wanting to do.

 

[MitchM]

...33 degrees will kill them.

Sorry, but that's incorrect. koi do fine down to 32F, for months at a time.

.

 

[Lisak1]

Sorry, but that's incorrect. koi do fine down to 32F, for months at a time.

.

I really want to get that underwater thermometer installed before winter hits. I'm always curious how cold the water gets under the ice.

 

[MitchM]

I really want to get that underwater thermometer installed before winter hits. I'm always curious how cold the water gets under the ice.

If you have an ice cap with water circulation, you'll have 32F water temperature.
If you have a deep pond for your area, no water circulation and an ice cap you may see a 2 to 3 degree difference between the bottom and the space right below the ice layer, which will vary throughout the winter.
You'll need to know the accuracy of the temperature probe though. Some can vary by 3 degrees F.
It is interesting to observe though.